A New Year Begins-Garment Sewing Group 2024

First the important info-

Garment Sewing Group meetings begin this Wednesday:

Wednesday, Jan. 10, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Thursday, Jan. 11, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley and Fabric Swap

Saturday, Jan. 13, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

And if you want to read on-

I’ve been catching up on social media and some of the people have marvelous, creative, new plans for the new year-awesome!! Maybe it’s my age, but I can’t get that excited about the big plans. I’m working on the little, day by day improvements that may not look like much but I’m hoping they’ll add up (fingers crossed).

Above are the pajamas that got made-but not all delivered-to the grandkids (yes, there are 3 more sets somewhere).

And then the Kimberbear for the niece of Mom’s caregiver.

And the bridge we’ve been refurbishing at the farm.

So, all in all, a great start to the new year and my garments for January meetings are shaping up!!

Hope to see you in 2024-often!

December’s Saturday Pics

We meet for Garment Sewing Group tomorrow (Wednesday) at Sewing Lounge and finish up at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley with the fabric swap on Thursday. See you there!!

Also, for those Gudrun Sjoden fans-there’s a sale this weekend:

Gudrun Sjoden warehouse

5310 West 23rd St, SLP, 55416

-Dec 15 from 3-7 pm

-Dec 16 from 11 am – 3 pm

Self drafted Japanese inspired pant
Decades Everyday Three’s a Charm Jacket
Embellished Jacket OOP pattern
Creative pattern matching
And pleats! (Also one in front)
Fun pant detail (and shoes) not sure if this New Look?
Vogue 1741 Wool Jacket
New quilt!!

December Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

Burda 5941, View A-Cotton/spandex stretch wide wale corduroy

1. I did my standard petite length adjustments and narrow shoulder. On the sleeve I mistook the cut line for horizontal seam for the shorten/lengthen line so I wasn’t able to put in a horizontal seam as pattern directs.

2. I did not enjoy working with this fabric. It was necessary to use a walking foot and size 14 needle in my machine. The fabric is stiff and bulky and not very forgiving.

3. I used the Louise Cutting method for pockets (see example) and changed order of construction making it easier for fitting and working with the fabric.

4. I did a wrapped hem and used serger and bias binding for seam finishes.

5. Closures? – definitely not buttonholes! Many thanks to Kristin for putting in my snaps with her Kamsnap tool.

Kwik Sew 4069 OOP/jersey knit and Burda 5971/rayon challis

1. I did my standard shortening adjustments and also straightened out side seams – it’s a very curvy pattern.

2. Turtlenecks are a staple in my wardrobe. Making them out of fabulous fabric and getting the neck fit I want is a win-win. Also it was a nice break from sewing corduroy!

Autumn Paisley Print Shirtdress

Burda 5971, dress version

Rayon challis

1. In October I made the blouse version of this pattern. I had enough fabric to make the dress version thinking it would be perfect for Thanksgiving. The chances are high that it will become a blouse!

2. I did my standard shortening adjustments as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment. I also removed 4 inches from the hem length.

3. I changed the order of construction so I could do flat construction, i.e. collar before side seams.

4. Love the fabric but the dress – not so much.

Forest Green Knit/Woven Overlay Tee

McCalls 7247, View B/ponte and textured cotton

1. This is a fun pattern that I have made before. The look and style can easily be altered by switching up colors, fabrics and textures.

Kristin’s Garments

Funnel Neck Sweater

Jalie Romy #4024 and Butterick 6597/activewear knit

Jalie Romy #4024

1. One of my favorite patterns-no front or back. Great fit with the funnel neck and dolman sleeves. Omitted the band at waist.

Butterick 6597 OOP

1. Omitted the wide waistband and cover stitched matching elastic instead.

2. Narrowed the side piece-there are no side seams in skirt.

Jalie Romy #4024/rayon knit

1. Wanted to try the pattern in a lighter fabric. Used the waistband this time.

2. Comfortable and fits under jacket.

Burda 5869/Merchant & Mills/linen jacquard

1. Very happy with this pattern. Loved that it was lined-inside looks good. Saved a lot of headaches on edge finishes.

2. Fabric was easy to work with. Zipper went in well.

3. Omitted side seam pockets but added a chest pocket on the inside. Made several mistakes but well worth the effort.

4. Neck band made to pattern. Height is great.

Sew House Seven Toaster, version 1/rayon knit and Jalie Multi Sport Skort #2796/repurposed jacket

Sew House Seven Toaster, version 1

1. Also wanted to try this pattern in a lightweight knit.

2. Neckband doesn’t stand up -may stitch it folded to give extra stability.

Jalie Multi Sport Skort #2796/repurposed jacket

1. Have been seeing these winter skirts in Title Nine catalog and had to try them.

2. Used the zipper and pockets as is. The fabric didn’t separate which was helpful.

3. Bound the waistline with knit. Fun make. Fun to wear!

January 2024 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, January 10, 10:30, at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, January 11, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, January 13, 10:30 at Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

November Final Inspiration

The last of Sew and Tell from November-Debbie and Kristin’s garments will be coming soon…

New lining and buttons for a favorite jacket
Quilts Illustrated Boxy Tote
Simplicity 1163
Los Gatos Vest
Moss Jacket/Helen’s Closet
Butterick 6106
Matchy Matchy Open Back Smock Top

What We’ve Seen So Far…

And there’s one more meeting, Wednesday, Nov. 15, 10:30, at Lakes Makerie. Hope you can make it!!!

Vogue 1899
Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater and Renee Pant/Jalie
Willow Wrap Dress and Top/Love Notions
Sew Different Cocoon Jacket
Teddy Teen Jacket/StyleArc
What happens when you let friends talk you into Barbie Halloween costume
Rock on, Western Barbie!!
Ballad Blouse/Love Notions in a knit
KwikSew Men’s Shirt
Japonesque Top/Sewing Workshop
McCalls 8122
Butterick 6328
McCalls 8067
New Look 6585 Coats, McCalls 8070 Sweatshirt
Butterick 5891
Sew Liberated Studio Tunic
Love Notions Samson Sweatshirt and Burda 5941 Jacket
Los Gatos Vest
Jalie Renee Pant on granddaughter
Cashmerette Alton Top
Fillmore Duster Sewing Workshop
Itch to Stitch Castillo Cardigan
Thread Theory Jutland Pant
Simplicity 8982
Wiksten Shift Dress and handwoven scarf
Cashmerette Stanmore

October’s Garment Sewing Group Pics and Pattern Review

Missing two pics but someone is across the Pond :))

New class starting Thursday, November 2-Garment Sewing 2.0, 10-12 pm at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley. Meant for those of you coming back to sewing for yourself and not sure where to start-indie patterns, new fabrics, changed body!!! Make a garment while brushing up on skillzzzz.

Debbie’s Garments:

Pauline Alice Tello Jacket/Cotton Stretch Twill

1. The only fit adjustment I made was a narrow shoulder.

2. I interfaced the collar and facings – pattern does not use interfacing. However I was surprised how often the serger was mentioned for seam finishes.

3. The construction method is done while most of the jacket is flat except for sleeves. I did set in sleeves, buttonholes and then the hem.

4. Other than putting the buttonholes too far in from center I am really happy with it, especially the pockets. The jacket is a fun make and the directions are very good.

Brick/Tan Raglan Tee

Butterick 6207, view A with curved hem

1. This is my favorite pattern for a Raglan tee. Great for layering under my utility jacket.

Cream Banded Turtleneck

Simplicity 9385, View D

Ribbed sweater knit blend

1. Another TNT pattern.

2. The knit is very drapey so I added the band to prevent the length of the fabric to grow.

3. As the weather gets cooler I will layer this under my utility jacket.

4. I was pleasantly surprised to find two classic shirts in my closet that with also layer well with this jacket. I have a mini capsule!

Tartan Plaid Peplum Shirt

Burda 5971, View B/Cotton

1. I adjusted fit by narrowing shoulder, shortened between shoulder and bust, shortened 1 inch between waist and peplum hem and shortened sleeve 1 inch.

2. The sleeve calls for a basic 1 inch hem but I did a split cuff instead.

3. Instead of adding belt loops for belt I secured belt at center back just below peplum seam.

4. Matching the plaid for this pattern was difficult. I let the pattern photo fool me. I would make this again but definitely not in a plaid!

Style Arc Josie Hoodie (no hood)/Novelty poly knit

1. Did not do any fit adjustments.

2. Instead of using facings for the hood I lined it with a lightweight ponte knit. Nixed the hood and added a cowl/turtle neck instead. I also faced the hem with the same ponte.

3. I did not add draw strings to bottom hem.

4. It’s a fun top and easy to make.

5. A lighter weight and more pliable fabric would work better for the hood.

Kristin’s Garments:

Simplicity 8797, View C/Berber fleece

1. Cut shoulders, neck, armhole and sleeves as Small-remainder in Medium.

2. Pattern has lining pieces. I cut a back neck facing instead of lining. Used ponte fabric for facing.

3. Used lining fabric for pockets for slipperiness.

4. Topstitching made the berber look cheap and crushed so I handtacked in numerous places to keep facing in place.

5. Went together well, collar’s inside corner turns well. Serged most seams but curves and collar sewn on sewing machine. Snuggly coat!

Burda 5855/Novelty fabric and heavy rib knit

1. Pattern is made for wovens or faux fur-I subbed rib knit for sleeves and collar.

2. I was attracted to the vertical “bust” dart. It is trimmed after sewing. Fabric frayed so I zigzagged.

3. Pattern calls for interfacing both upper and under collar which I did since it was a knit. Pattern directions show a corner on the collar but the pattern piece is definitely rounded and the photos also show a rounded corner.

4. I didn’t originally interface the front facing but after pinning the heavy collar into the flimsy main fabric I added a wide strip to center fronts.

5. Sleeve is two pieces which I kept even tho it was a knit. Sleeve head went in well-didn’t need to cut down and it isn’t a sloppy fit.

6. Pocket seemed small and not useful and I didn’t have any of the woven fabric left so no pocket.

7. Another Burda winner pattern for me!

VikiSews Alya Tee/cotton knit

1. Had to make it once more-comfy tee-boxy fit.

Lark Tee Grainline Studios/Cotton knit

1. Looking for the perfect tee-not sure this one is it. Very high sleeve cap that makes for sloppy armhole.

November Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, November 9, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, November 11, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St.Paul

Wednesday, November 15, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

October’s Wednesday Pics

Today we meet at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley and Saturday at Ginny’s in Rochester. Carpool, anyone?

Here’s what we saw at Sewing Lounge for Wednesday’s Garment Sewing Group!

Simplicity 9385 Top, Dress # TBD
Great back detail
Butterick 6328 Jacket
Vogue 8906 and Lark Tee Grainline Studio
Vogue Rachel Comey pants
Butterick 6283
Lisbon Sweater Itch to Stitch
Fehrtrade Quarter Zip
Version 2 & 3 of above pattern
Jalie Victor Board Short
Jazzy Suit Coat
Juliet Shirt Stylearc Patterns
Butterick 6247 almost 🙂
Jalie Helene Sweater and Sewing Workshop Splice Top
Vogue 1907
Great hood detail
McCall’s 7390
Love Notions Melody Shirt
Friday Pattern Company Donny Shirt
What can happen if you cut off the head of a cat…

Serger Class Starting October 5

Basic & Beyond Sergery class starts on Thursday, October 5, 10-12 pm, at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley. Please contact the store to register-2 spots left! Phone is 952-431-6688.

Here are the last of the photos from September’s Garment Sewing Group meetings:

Beautiful shirtdress in Liberty of London
Tabor V-Neck/Sew House Seven/sweater knit
Tabor V-Neck/Sew House Seven/sweater knit
Vintage McCalls
Archie Shirt/StyleArc and Vogue 9022 dress
StyleArc Shacket in home dec fabric

Garment Sewing Group

September 2023

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Burda 7062 pant/stretch denim and Simplicity 9275/cotton interlock

Burda 7062-I like the contour waistband, side zip and ankle slits.

Simplicity 9275, View A, without pockets

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. Quick and easy make and the fabric was also easy to sew.

2. Due to weight of fabric I did a single layer hem versus a narrow hem as pattern instructs.

McCalls MP457/7194 OOP-cotton/poly blend

1. TNT pattern that is easily hacked. The fabric makes this Tee.

Zipper Sleeved Tee/Vogue 1635/blended double knit

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeves. Also shortened sleeve length by one inch and length of body 2 inches.

2. I appreciated the pattern instructions regarding cutting interfacing – nice tip.

3. To create less bulk and to construct as much as the garment flat I changed the order of construction. I constructed the left sleeve with zipper first rather than what the pattern instructs. I also do shoulder seams, neck edge before any side seams if possible.

4. The pattern instructions lack any mention of clean finishing zipper edge. No mention of serger – instead you are instructed to double stitch.

5. It’s a fun pattern that puts a standard tee  up a notch. 

Last of my summer Makes:

Grainline Studio Willow Tank/rayon

1. Shortened 1 inch between waist and hip.

2. Changed order of construction – Stitch one shoulder seam, apply first strip of bias binding, stitch other shoulder seam and complete binding construction. I used serged wrapped method of applying binding.

3. Great pattern – definitely will become a TNT.

Love Notions Classic Tee/cotton interlock
McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848 top and Jalie Eleonore pant

Kristin’s Garments

Alta Tee/VikiSews/cotton knit
Alta Tee/VikiSews/rayon knit

1. Looking for an oversized, but not sloppy, tee.

2. Klimt fabric is cotton and neckband fit pretty close.

3. Navy is rayon and heavier and drapier.

4. Correct pattern, great basic.

Tarifa Tee French Navy Patterns/rayon and cotton knits

1. Stripe is rayon/botanical print is cotton. Fun pattern.

2. Front hem shorter than back.

Donny Shirt Friday Pattern Company/linen

1. Fun shirt pattern with back yoke and gathered back.

2. Instructions for front yoke are very good.

3. Hand stitched hems.

Sepia Pant Closet Core Crew/lightweight denim
Sepia Pant Closet Core Crew/flannel

1. This pattern is a bit narrower than Barry Pant/Stylearc and not quite as bubbly.

2. Hem facing and 3 darts make the leg shape. I added 3” to length.

3. Lots of interesting sewing techniques, especially the pockets and paper bag waistband but I didn’t want those options.

MultiSport Skort Jalie Patterns/activewear knit

1. Added 4” to length of skirt and pant underneath.

2. Fabric was good to sew on. Clips were easier than pins.

3. Made waistband half the width but the stretch of knit was different and wish I would have made it wider.

October Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, October 11, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, October 12, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, October 14, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester  

Thursday and Saturday Meeting Pics

September meetings will finish at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics in Rochester tomorrow, Sept. 20. Good times were had at Creative Sewing and Lakes Makerie as evidenced by the photos below:

Lily Jacket from Decades of Style
Karine Cardigan from Jalie Patterns
Simplicity 8878 blouse with faux tie
First pattern from Nani Iro sewing book
Cadence from Love Notions
Vogue 9085 in cotton from Japan 🙂
Jalie Dolman in dress length
Bride’s Robe-pattern copied from RTW
Truly one of a kind-
Kayla Shirt from Alexander Morgan Patterns
Sweepstakes Winner at the State Fair!!!
KwikSew 3915-Matching chairs compliments of Lakes Makerie
Greenstyle Boxers in cotton
And technical active wear fabric
Bodobo Bags Pucker Up Project Bag from Etsy
Inside view
Stretch and Sew 3036 with some upscale details
Tee with a difference-Concord Tee from Cashmerette
Vogue 1925 Marcy Tilton Jacket