Garment Sewing Group

September 2023

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

**Burda 7062 pant/stretch denim** **and Simplicity 9275/cotton interlock**

Burda 7062-I like the contour waistband, side zip and ankle slits.

Simplicity 9275, View A, without pockets

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. Quick and easy make and the fabric was also easy to sew.

2. Due to weight of fabric I did a single layer hem versus a narrow hem as pattern instructs.

**McCalls MP457/7194 OOP-cotton/poly blend**

1. TNT pattern that is easily hacked. The fabric makes this Tee.

**Zipper Sleeved Tee/Vogue 1635/blended double knit**

1. Shortened between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeves. Also shortened sleeve length by one inch and length of body 2 inches.

2. I appreciated the pattern instructions regarding cutting interfacing – nice tip.

3. To create less bulk and to construct as much as the garment flat I changed the order of construction. I constructed the left sleeve with zipper first rather than what the pattern instructs. I also do shoulder seams, neck edge before any side seams if possible.

4. The pattern instructions lack any mention of clean finishing zipper edge. No mention of serger – instead you are instructed to double stitch.

5. It’s a fun pattern that puts a standard tee up a notch.

Last of my summer Makes:

1. Shortened 1 inch between waist and hip.

2. Changed order of construction – Stitch one shoulder seam, apply first strip of bias binding, stitch other shoulder seam and complete binding construction. I used serged wrapped method of applying binding.

3. Great pattern – definitely will become a TNT.

**Love Notions Classic Tee/cotton interlock**

**McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848 top and Jalie Eleonore pant**

Kristin’s Garments

1. Looking for an oversized, but not sloppy, tee.

2. Klimt fabric is cotton and neckband fit pretty close.

3. Navy is rayon and heavier and drapier.

4. Correct pattern, great basic.

**Tarifa Tee French Navy Patterns/rayon and cotton knits**

1. Stripe is rayon/botanical print is cotton. Fun pattern.

2. Front hem shorter than back.

**Donny Shirt Friday Pattern Company/linen**

1. Fun shirt pattern with back yoke and gathered back.

2. Instructions for front yoke are very good.

3. Hand stitched hems.

**Sepia Pant Closet Core Crew/lightweight denim**

1. This pattern is a bit narrower than Barry Pant/Stylearc and not quite as bubbly.

2. Hem facing and 3 darts make the leg shape. I added 3” to length.

3. Lots of interesting sewing techniques, especially the pockets and paper bag waistband but I didn’t want those options.

**MultiSport Skort Jalie Patterns/activewear knit**

1. Added 4” to length of skirt and pant underneath.

2. Fabric was good to sew on. Clips were easier than pins.

3. Made waistband half the width but the stretch of knit was different and wish I would have made it wider.

October Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, October 11, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, October 12, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, October 14, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester

Thursday and Saturday Meeting Pics

September meetings will finish at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics in Rochester tomorrow, Sept. 20. Good times were had at Creative Sewing and Lakes Makerie as evidenced by the photos below:

Kayla Shirt from Alexander Morgan Patterns

KwikSew 3915-Matching chairs compliments of Lakes Makerie

Bodobo Bags Pucker Up Project Bag from Etsy

Stretch and Sew 3036 with some upscale details

Tee with a difference-Concord Tee from Cashmerette

August’s Last of Sew and Tell

As you plan your fall sewing, here are photos from the remaining August meetings of Garment Sewing Group to inspire you-

Surprise showing from Katie in Burda two piece knit outfit-thanks for taking the time, Katie!!

Burnside Bibs/Sew House Seven X 2 and Lark Tee/Grainline Studio

Donny Shirt/Friday Pattern Co. on hanger, Cottage Shirt/Sewing Workshop on Linda, Stylearc Marley Shirt/rose linen on hanger

Verdun Woven Tee/Liesl and Co. New Look 1698 skirt

Cottage Shirt/Now and Zen/Sewing Workshop

August Garment Sewing Group

Here are the garments and pattern review made by Debbie and Kristin in August:

Debbie’s Garments:

Summer Blue Pants

Jalie Vanessa Pants

Cotton/linen blend

1. A favorite relaxed pant pattern due to the fit and comfort.

2. I do change the construction techniques. – I use a one piece waistband with no drawstring insertion. I also shorten the width of the band and use 1 and 1/2 inch elastic rather than 2 and1/2 that pattern calls for.

Copied RTW using McCalls 6964 (Butterick 6848)

1. Tees are my summer staple and I am always looking for an added detail. In this case I added contrast cuffs and a side insert – it breaks up the print and adds some interest.

2. I removed 2 and 1/2 inches from front and back side seams starting at hem and going up to nothing 6 inches from armhole cut edge, including seam allowance.

3. I didn’t want black contrast at my face so I added interfaced neck facings instead of neckband.

**Jordan Jacket by Serendipity Studio/cotton linen blend**

1. Fit adjustments including shortening between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeves, narrow shoulder adjustments and shortened the sleeves. I did not shorten length.

2. The construction techniques work as pattern directs but would do it different next time.

3. When it came time to construct the cuff I did it my way – the pattern does a very unusual placket insertion on sleeve- I felt I could make it easier and better looking. I also do not care for inside upper pocket finish.

4. Overall it is a good jean jacket pattern and if and when I make another I would use this pattern.

**Itch to Stitch Lago Tank and Love Notions Laundry Day Dress/rayon jersey knit**

1. I made a tee first as my muslin to check out fit and drape. I was satisfied with the results and went on to make the dress with changes.

2. Shortened length one inch and use straight hem.

3. I raised the front neckline one inch.

4. Quick and easy make that could be a summer staple.

Itch to Stitch Lago Tank

Itch to Stitch Lago Tank (pictured 2 above)

1. I had left over fabric from Laundry Day Tee so I thought I would give this free pattern a try.

2. I raised the neckline 1 inch and shortened the length 1 inch.

3. I made the neckband and armhole bands wider than pattern.

4. Tanks are in my wardrobe to be worn under tops or as pj tops. For the little amount of fabric required and the ease in constructing the tank I will keep this pattern close and cut more of them to make good use of my left over knits.

Kristin’s Garments:

1. Great pattern for leftover narrow pieces-had to selvage this fabric!

2. Lots of seams make for easy fit adjustments at hip. Bias finishes at neck and armhole.

Knit Robe

**Butterick 5963/Marcy Tilton poly knit**

1. Side tie is what drew me to the pattern. Basic assembly-attaching band at tie point is a bit fiddley but works well. I reinforced with fusible interfacing at front facing/band points.

2. Fabric print attracted me-fabric content should have stopped me 🙂

1. Old pattern/still in print. Always wanted to try the tank. Many fine tuning fit adjustments and I still didn’t look like the drawing (!)

2. Had fun making shell tuck edging on bias binding and applying to neck and arm edges.

**Elodie Wrap Dress by Closet Core/linen**

1. The waistband was the draw on this pattern. Had an inspiration pic I wanted to copy.

2. Followed pattern with very few exceptions but eliminated left tie wrapping all the way around as waistband is close fitting. Attached band at left side seam and love it that way.

3. A straight skirt would be a great variation to this pattern.

1. Inspiration pic pointed to Chalk & Notch Fringe Dress or Lyric. I chose Lyric because of the set in sleeve and closer bodice fit. Fringe Dress pics always had a back tie or didn’t look like what I was after.

2. Shortened bodice two inches to change the look.

3. Construction went quickly with bias bindings on neck. I chose to let binding show instead of turning under which gave some sweet angles to the ending points. Turning under the center front facing made it easy and neat.

4. Eliminated the front vertical darts as bodice is close fitting. Added to front and back armscye based on previous experience with Love Notions patterns.

5. Skirt has two options-I chose the straight gathered option and used the width of the fabric instead of a more gathered skirt as suggested by pattern.

September 2023 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, September 13, 10:30, Ginny’s in Rochester

Thursday, September 14, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, September 16, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Meetings underway!

Here are Wednesday/Lakes Makerie pics from Garment Sewing Group. We’re at Creative Sewing/Apple Valley today/Thursday and Sewing Lounge/St. Paul on Saturday! 10:30 am always 🙂

Tapered Mitchell Trousers with wow! pockets-and a handknit sweater to boot!

Liberty of London silk in Curso Top/Cashmerette

And for the flower girl-Baby Holland Dress/Little Lizard King

Vogue 9341 for grandmother of the bride modeled by Sue (not the maker or part of the wedding 🙂

Eureka Tops/Sewing Workshop and self drafted pants

Urban Pant and Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop

More Inspiration from July

July saw our largest attendance for a very long time-thanks to everyone who follows us and makes garment sewing and the sharing of it a priority. It wouldn’t be as awesome without all of you!!

August meetings start on Wednesday, Aug. 9 at Lakes Makerie, Thursday, Aug. 10 at Creative Sewing and Saturday, Aug. 12, Sewing Lounge all starting at 10:30 am.

So here is some of what we saw in July (Saturday’s pics have been posted previously).

Tie dye-Stretch & Sew 333, Eureka Top and Valencia Pant-Sewing Workshop

Fehr Trade Adventure Travel Pants and Seamwork Willis Shirt in rayon

Itch to Stitch Santorini after much work 🙂

Ahead of season or behind? Beautiful either way 🙂

Silhouette Patterns Sonya’s Blouse, modified, also used Sinclair Patterns Thumb Pack

McCalls 7194 and some cute little girl sewing

July Garment Sewing Group

Garment Sewing Group

July 2023

Debbie’s Garments:

**McCalls 2401, available online**, **Japanese cotton**

1. This is my TNT pattern for shift dresses. Petite adjustments are included in the pattern which is a timesaver for me.

2. The facing is eliminated – I used serged bias binding and added the flounce to sleeve. I especially like putting in the zipper using Becky’s method-

1. Interface seam allowances on zipper seam.

2. Clean finish seam allowances.

3. Stitch zipper seam 1 to 1 1/2 inches from the top of seam, stop and secure seam.

4. Leave an opening the length of the zipper minus one inch.

5. Continue to sew seam from bottom of zipper opening to bottom of garment seam, backstitching at start of the seam.

6. Insert zipper and stitch about one inch further than zipper opening.

7. You will need to wiggle the zipper pull up between both sides of zipper to close the first time.

8. Ta da! A beautiful zipper insertion without the fussiness at the top of the zipper and facing.

Navy Dot Jacket

**Harriet Jacket by Style Arc, Japanese Cotton**

1. Fitting adjustments includes petite between shoulders and bust, narrow shoulder adjustment and shortened sleeve length.

2. Optional to line jacket – I lined my jacket with Bemberg Rayon.

3. Typical Style Arc pattern as far as instructions go. I did change order of construction and button placement.

**Itch to Stitch Santorini Tank, Linen and Jalie Vanessa Pant**

1. I shortened front and back between shoulder and bust and shortened body length at hem by one inch. Due to close fit I needed to go from small to larger from bust to hip but easy to do with pattern instructions.

2. This is a fun pattern. Lots of line drawings for excellent construction details, especially the Burrito method for facing.

3. Not necessary to do button placket but it is a great design feature.

Jalie Vanessa Pants

Another TNT pattern. I have made construction changes – the fly is eliminated and I use a one piece waistband – I am now able to sew them up in just a couple of hours.

**Love Notions Melody Dolman Blouse, Hugo Boss Cotton Elastic**

I made this pattern last year and it has become a favorite.

Kristin’s Garments:

**Jalie Melanie #3889, Japanese cottons**

1. Pattern is very similar to a kimono-body pieces are perfect rectangles. By butting pieces to each other, cutting is streamlined and waste is minimal.

2. Because the seams are 3/8” I serged most of them. Underarm sleeve omits clipping to corner but it is necessary-I stitched it with straight machine first, clipped and then serged.

3. Good, basic kimono pattern and I love the fish-but are they right side up or upside down??

Klimt Summer Dress

1. The pattern is for woven but I wanted to give it a try in a knit first. Bust dart and no interruption of my art work 🙂

2. Flounce is supposed to be single layer, which I tried first but the white “wrong” side of the fabric was too stark so flounce is doubled and stiffer than the single but looks better.

3. Knit fabric doesn’t support the flounce very well, if I make it again in a knit I will cut the facing from woven fabric-I don’t think a stiffer interfacing will do the trick.

**Butterick 5456 (still available on simplicity.com website), cotton knit**

1. Loved the color and print of the fabric. Have made the pattern before but wanted sleeveless this time. Also, pattern calls for double layered bodice and that got too heavy last time I made it.

2. Love the cut out in back. Finished edges with a 1” strip and sewed together instead of ties.

3. Messed around with fit and all. Will find a pattern closer to what I want next time.

4. Tried garment as a maxi as I had plenty of fabric but short was more fun.

August 2023 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, August 9, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, August 10, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, August 12, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

June GSG Final

First, highlights from Wednesday’s meeting at Lakes Makerie-

Free Range Pants by Sew House Seven in linen

New Look 6560 top and self drafted skirt

Multi-sleeve Midi Dress by The Assembly Line

Garment Sewing Group

June 2023

Debbie’s Garments:

**Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs in Brussels washer linen blend**

1. This is a great pattern in that it offers many choices for pockets, bibs and length. Also the construction directions are clear, easy to understand and the illustrations are helpful. Construction goes quickly up until the straps. At this point I took my time and followed directions carefully but also doing my own thing to eliminate some steps I felt were not needed or I had a better way.

2. I shortened the length between knee and hip one inch, the front pocket length one inch, hem length one inch and the crotch length/depth one inch.

3. I did interface the the top of the bib and the side seam zipper areas . I would also interface the pocket facing – the pattern directions do not include interfacing.

4. The directions do tell you to remark notches after finishing raw edges and it gives you 2 methods to do the straps. I found this to be very helpful.

5. I did not topstitch the back waistband. Attaching the belt loops and stitching in the ditch secured the facing just fine.

Jalie Dolman Tee in viscose ponte (picture above with bibs)

1. This is one of my TNT patterns. This time I added a neckband rather than turn under binding and straightened the hem on front and back.

Navy Joggers

**Itch to Stitch Nusle Joggers in viscose rayon**

1. Shortened length of pants a total of 4 inches between hip and knee and knee and hem.

2. I made the straight leg and no cuffs.

3. The pattern goes together quickly due to excellent directions. I enjoy everything about the Itch to Stitch pattern company.

Somerset Maven Tee in cotton spandex interlock (picture above)

1. Another TNT pattern for me.

2. I did narrow the neckline pattern piece by taking in 1/8 inch tucks on front and back necklines.

3. I chose 3/4 sleeves this time around.

Kristin’s Garments

Summer Bibs

**Burnside Bibs by Sew House Seven, Zipper version**

1. My linen was very linen-y (a bit unstable, very pressable) so I interfaced wherever they suggested and added interfacing to front pocket facing. Probably should have done the same for back pockets.

2. Cutting out was a process but all part of the pattern. Fun to assemble if a little time consuming. Topstitching was all good. Nice to have Debbie sewing ahead of me so I could ask questions.

3. I managed to do the tube method for turning the straps but used fold method for the ties-faster and easier :))

4. Fit was pretty spot on. They do a good crotch for my body. Looking forward to lots of summer wear!

Lenox Tee by Love Notions, square neck in cotton interlock (in photo above with bibs)

1. Great assembly directions for a square neck. Love the princess seams.

2. The band for the horizontal strip had to be stretched but the longer “around the neck” part did not. I would change that next time and make the long band shorter to bring it in around the neck.

**Nona Top by Fibre Mood in cotton voile**

1. Fun assembly-a bit like a puzzle but understandable. Not something I’d wear every day but very summery and light.

2. Zipper starts from waist instead of underarm. Well drafted.

**Burda 6497 View A in dark blue chambray**

1. Added length but kept waist level to pattern. Sized up for hips.

2. Fussy cut the skirt and was able to use less fabric than called for.

3. Fun make, fabric was great to work with.

4. Raised the vee by 3/4” by extending the center seam when I sewed it-didn’t change pattern piece. Vee instructions different than usual but very effective.

5. Omitted the side zip but may go back and put one in.

July Garment Sewing Group Meetings

Saturday, July 8, Ginny’s, Rochester

Wednesday, July 12, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, July 13, First Sewing, Bloomington

June Inspiration

We are at Lakes Makerie, Wednesday, June 14-last chance for the June meetings-come and see great sewing AND great fabric!!

Here are photos from Sewing Lounge and First Sewing meetings:

Grainline Studio Austin Dress-pattern available at Sewing Lounge

Wiksten Top (discontinued) used to copy
Nature Shirt by Thread + Sprout

Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop used to copy Pinterest inspiration

On hanger-Vogue 1614/wearing Simplicity 9328

June Meetings start Thursday!

Fun classes today (Wednesday) at Lakes Makerie-serger and open studio.

Tomorrow (Thursday) is first June Garment Sewing Group meeting at 10:30-they’ve moved to a new space in Southtown next to Massage Envy.

Saturday’s meeting is at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul.

Wednesday meeting is at Lakes Makerie in Minneapolis.

Fun week-hope to see you!

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