This is the Lakes Makerie owner’s daughter in Burnside Bibs from Sew House Seven. Several of us bit hard and bought the pattern (I have the fabric in my stash-still some in the store when we were there. We left a few patterns at the store for you to buy or it is now on sale and they have some fun free extensions for the pattern. Hmmm…might have to get busy 🙂
Here are the garments that Debbie and I showed at the April meeting. There will be one more post with more of your garments.
May Meetings are two weeks away-can’t wait!
Wednesday, May 10, 10:30, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester
Thursday, May 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, May 13, 10:30, Quilter’s Haven, Rosemount
Debbie’s Garments:
1. This pattern was in my stash – I like wraps and I like peplums so I thought I would give it a try.
2. It is a petite pattern so no length adjustments needed. I went up a size because I didn’t want too much negative ease. Also the necklines is too low .
3. I have other wrap tee patterns to try so I will give this one up.
1. I did make a muslin and worked hard to get a good fit. I did a narrow shoulder adjustment, shortened front, back and sleeve between bust and shoulder, cut width of collar and narrowed sleeve from elbow to hem.
2. I used light weight shoulder pads-the pattern does call for them.
3. Sewing with the leather was not a problem. My only struggle was where to use it on the collar-inside or out? Fabric matching was a challenge. The uneven plaid caused me to eat a lot of chocolate.
4. I would not use this pattern again but I really like the cut of the lining so I will keep it in my stash.
KwikSew 4069
1. Eleonore is a TNT pattern for me and the fabric feels great and a pleasure to sew.
1. Kwiksew 4069 is another TNT pattern. I added a cuff to the 3/4 length sleeves.
Kristin’s Garments:
Classic Slender Pant (worn with Butterick 6491 jacket and Vogue 9244 hack top)
Burda 7062
Gray travel fabric (polyester)
1. Added several inches-probably need a few more.
2. Sewed pants and then cut them down one size smaller. Not sure if that’s due to stretchy fabric?
3. Because the fabric is stretchy I omitted facing and zipper and serged 1”elastic to right side or waist, turned to wrong side wrapping seam allowance and topstitched down.
4. Slit has nice deep hem.
5. As usual, Burda makes a great fitting pant.
Double Wrap Top (worn with Vogue 1648 jacket)
Burda 5900
Version 1-Cotton knit, Version 2-poly knit
1. Basically you make 2 one shoulder tops and wear one over the other.
2. Version 1 has an interfaced deep folded facing. I chose to topstitch to tidy it up. The fold stretched out and the facing was tight.
3. Version 2-the facing has been trimmed off and a 1.75” band applied to “neck” edge. I like this version a lot better and could see sewing the side seams all at once to keep the shirt together. The Version 2 knit is also lighter and a better choice for the pattern.
Barry Pants/StyleArc Patterns
No stretch woven bottom weight twill or duck
1. Needed a pant to match the jacket-not quite sure why I chose something so stiff… but they still worked.
2. Straight of grain line is interesting after pants are sewn together.
Frill Neck Top
Burda 6146
Rayon
1. Straightforward blouse with bust darts and facings. Frill at neck is what drew me to pattern.
2. Frill is to pattern; hook and eye replaced ties.
3. Sleeves and cuffs were too large so cut down lower half of sleeve and omitted gathered cuff replacing with elastic and casing.
Our very spring-ish meeting at Sewing Lounge today was wonderful! Thursday we’ll be at First Sewing and fabric swapping. Saturday is at Lakes Makerie-hope you can make it!!!
Here’s the link for the YouTube video Debbie mentioned-https://youtu.be/RWfxYYb165k. Enjoy!
Like Bernie, the winner of Ginny’s Fine Fabrics Shirt contest!! We are working with Bernie to teach shirt technique classes next month. Learn from a pro!! Dates and times soon-
He’ll be at Garment Sewing Group this month (although we hear he’s been relining a wool coat so might not have a new shirt) and you can congratulate him!
Garment Sewing Group this week-
Wednesday, April 12 at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul
Thursday, April 13 at First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, April 15 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.
Spring sewing can be an antidote to the cold and wind (so can wine and a good movie!) See below what one mother daughter team accomplished over spring break-
We’re sewing for Garment Sewing Group which is coming up!
Wednesday, April 12 at Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, April 13 at First Sewing (and Fabric Swap)
Saturday, April 15 at Lakes Makerie
Hope you can make it! And Happy Easter!!
Here’s what Brenda and her daughter did during break-
Pretty awesome-great work!! Thanks for sharing-
Here’s a link to the Dawn jean pattern and the description:
Classic high-waisted rigid jean pattern set. Includes four cuts and multiple lengths for tall, regular, and cropped. Pattern features a high rise to sit on the natural waist, button fly, close fit through the waist and hips, and classic jeans details.
View A is a tapered-leg jean. View B is a straight leg jean. View C is a wide leg jean. View D is a jean short.
Inspired by our hunt to find the perfect pair of vintage jeans this pattern will fulfill all of your vintage jean dreams!
Skill: 3/5
It certainly was a week of snow challenges but we came through it with lots of fun meetings and inspiration!
Here’s some of what we saw on Saturday-
Garment Sewing Group-March 2023
Debbie’s Garments:
Rosy Textured Zip Peplum Jacket
1. This is my second make from this pattern. It is a favorite.
2. The jacket is unlined but I added lining to the sleeves. It is difficult to find just the right zipper so I used a contrast and did some topstitching to match zipper tape.
3. I am not fond of the pattern construction order so I go about it my way-complete facings, and collar before side seams and sleeves.
Dolman Tee/Jalie 3352/Cotton Spandex
1. When I came across this knit I knew it would go with my jacket. However I had barely a yard of fabric so I pulled out my TNT go-to-pattern-when-there-is-a-fabric-shortage. It works almost every time!
Khaki Trousers/Love Notions Duet Trousers/Cotton blend bottom weight twill with a little stretch
1. This muslin was a lot of work but it might become a go to pattern for woven pants.
2. I eliminated the pockets – not necessary in a muslin but it is a great feature in this pattern.
3. I added one inch to front and back rise since the pattern is designed to sit below waist.
4. I shortened the pant length by 2 inches. I added a second dart at back and increased center back seam by 1/2 inch to lessen gapping.
5. The pattern offers a pattern piece for a curvy or straight waistband. The front waist is lower than the back . It also has a wide or straight option.
6. I added the split hem at pants bottom – a favorite of mine.
7. Overall a good pattern that I will try again.
1. I used view A with lots of fit adjustments – Shortened front, back and sleeves between shoulder and bust. I shortened the length by 2 inches on front and back but only one inch on sleeve. The bust dart needed to be lowered and I also did a narrow shoulder adjustment.
2. I just barely had enough fabric so I used a contrast for placket facing and cut the cuff width in half.
3. The pattern has great fit instructions and options such as vertical darts versus tuck at back yoke. It has a tower placket but I did a continuous placket due to lack of fabric and wanting a less tailored look.
4. There is too much slip stitching in this pattern. There is a double yoke but no info on doing a burrito roll. I stitched the rs of facing to ws of blouse front for a clean finish on inside and not having to worry about securing the facing.
Kristin’s Garments:
1. My goal was a soft, warm, throw-on jacket and I came pretty close!
2. The fabric has a napped side and for interest I alternated wrong side with right side on each piece. This was an interesting exercise in cutting out pieces-hint: not only must you layer fabric right side to wrong side (typically it is rs to rs or ws to ws) but you must also alternate actual pattern pieces right side up and up side down. So the upper bodice pattern piece will be face up and the lower bodice paper will be face down. Brain gymnastics!!
3. I added an interior zipper pocket.
4. My February version was too big through shoulder/bust/sleeve so I cut it down to a 14 (one size smaller) and that worked very well.
5. Fabric was too thick for machine buttonholes.
Vests
Hot Patterns Fast & Fabulous Foursquare T’s/Double sided wool knit (Vee neck)
1. Eureka has a sloped shoulder line and the underarm curves out to give some shaping. The Hot Patterns vest has a square shoulder and straight underarm to side seam.
2. Neck and hems simply turned under on Eureka crew. Center seam makes vee a snap on Hot Patterns vest.
Shirt from months ago: Helmi Trench Blouse by Named-Added tucks and shortened
Narrow Legged Trousers/Mitchell Trousers by Closet Core/Mystery fabric
1. Loved these in wide leg version so had to try narrow leg. Added 1.5”-should have added a bit more to hit shoe.
2. Be sure to mark pleat marking on all pieces.
3. Fabric was linen like with a backing so kind of wonky to work with but I knew that going in.
4. Trouser facings, pleat, pocket and fly zip make a bit of extra work but worth it.
April GSG
Wednesday, April 12, 10:30, Sewing Lounge
Thursday, April 13, 10:30, First Sewing
Saturday, April 15, 10:30, TBA
Last chance for March Garment Sewing Group today at Treadle Yard Goods, 10:30 am.
Here are photos from our meeting on Thursday at First Sewing-
Yesterday was our first March meeting-we’ll be at First Sewing today, Thursday, March 9 and at Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday. Here’s what we saw at Lakes-
What will you be sewing for March-that in between, “I don’t really want to sew more wool but it’s still COLD” month!!
Debbie’s Garments:
1. Cut size small and petited between shoulders and bust but not length.
2. Stabilized the hems with Steam a Seam and then topstitched.
3. Used a serged bias finish for armholes.
4. This vest requires a lot of fabric due to the neck cowl but is worth it.
5. The fabric requires a great amount of steaming, press and pounding but again well worth it.
1. This is my second make from this pattern. I like her construction techniques but find the sleeves very narrow.
2. I petited between the shoulder and bust and shortened the front placket 7” and cut it on the bias.
3. I also straightened the outside collar edges instead of using the curve shape.
4. Her collar instructions are a little tricky so I used my own method. It’s a fun make but time to move onto another pattern for a woven tunic.
1. This is TNT pattern for me and thought it would work for a staple travel pant, especially on a plane.
2. Polyester is never my first choice but in this case it worked well for my needs.
3. I converted the waistband to one piece and eliminated the faux fly zipper.
4. A quick make and a versatile pattern.
1. I did not need to petite between shoulder and bust but did shorten the sleeve length by one inch.
2. The pattern has a 2 piece sleeve which I like but I would do a continuous or tower placket next time.
3. I used a burrito roll for the yoke and applied placket and cuffs ws to rs.
4. I will use this pattern again – other than out dated construction techniques it checks a lot of boxes.
1. Another TNT pattern that I often hack to meet my needs or my fabric needs- in this case too much stretch!
2. I changed the cowl to a T neck by removing width and length from pattern piece. If I did it again I would make the T neck out of ribbing but I didn’t have enough ribbing after making bottom band and cuffs from ribbing.
3. I wanted more of a boxy fit so I straightened the side seams from bust to hem.
Kristin’s Garments:
1. Made a size 16 for bodice, size 18 at hips.
2. One piece collar went in very easily with facings.
3. Sleeves went in flat very well.
4. Bust dart built in with the two horizontal seams. Makes pocket application a bit awkward.
5. Front placket is part of front facing-worked well.
6. Took sleeves and side seam at bust in 1/2” and that improved the fit by a lot.
1. Loved working with the wool! Fit turned out to be wonderful-size medium.
2. Elbow dart in sleeve; sleeve facing at hem.
3. Learned how to use eyelet stitch but it was a bit small for the tie.
4. Made a narrow hem-would add to length next time.
5. Made elastic cording from cotton knit-jersey rolls to right side (wrong side shows) on crossgrain and to wrong side (right side shows) on straight of grain.
1. Omitted neck facing and holes for ties.
2. Took dart out of sleeve:
1. Draw a line from hem to tip of dart, parallel to grainline.
2. Fold dart closed.
3. Draw straight line from armscye (close to side seam) to each side of newly opened area.
4. Fold this newly drawn “dart” closed.
5. True up the hem.
3. Finished the neck edge and hems with knit strips and sewed all seams with knit strips.
4. Took in sleeves and side seams by 1/2” to down size from woven pattern.
1. Split neck version-shaped front and back center seams. Vee seemed to open too high for comfort so fiddled with that.
2. Pattern calls for a neck zipper but not necessary.
3. Wrap version-shoulder seams continue up to folded over neck edge. Stitched down the fold to keep things neat.
March 2023 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, March 8, 10:30 Lakes Makerie
Thursday, March 9, 10:30 First Sewing
Saturday, March 11, 10:30 Treadle Yard Goods
Material Girl Sewing 