Cinch Me I’m Dreaming from Forest and Thread (won the best pattern name :))
Sew Inviting hosted our meeting on Saturday and what a wonderful morning it was-looks like Sew House Seven and Love Notions won out for summer sewing!!
But let’s catch up on last year’s final GSG meeting-
December 2024
Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
This is one of my favorite shirt patterns. I have made it 3 times and I am always pleased with the fit and construction process.
I made a few changes this time making a long sleeve version and adding a fun cuff.
The sleeves are meant to be constructed flat but I did the set-in method.
I like the smaller collar, the fitted design and length. I especially like the fabric.
A simple A-line skirt pattern would have been a better choice due to the fabric, contour waist and curvy side seams – oh well!
The only fit adjustment I made was to straighten the side seams.
It was a challenge to match the plaid at contour waist and get it to fit around my body while keeping the plaid from getting funky.
I thought this would be a simple quick make but it was more of a challenge and took more time than I planned for!
I needed and wanted a skirt to go with a RTW Knit jacket – this skirt fits the bill and I am sure it will get worn often during our cold weather.
Leftovers –
I had difficulty sewing this month due to lack of inspiration and a basket of “leftover” projects that I couldn’t ignore before moving on. Finally I worked through the basket starting with making a Tee shirt dress into a tee-shirt and then using the leftover from the dress I made a scrappy tee. I also changed out snaps, adjusted cuffs on a blouse and refashioned another blouse from last month.
For the refashioned blouse, Burda 6146 – I didn’t care for the front slit and ruffles. I removed the ruffle and using a technique new to me I replaced the slit with a fun band. I will definitely use the band technique again.
Kristin’s Garments:
Like Debbie, there were a few UFO’s that were asking to be useful! This was a mock up for an outdoor jacket.
Used Vogue 1356 closure instead of putting in a zipper and installed snaps.
Faced the hem, neck and front.
Added cuffs trim to tie in the navy seersucker.
Favorite pattern that I haven’t had out of the envelope for a while. It did not disappoint!
The rayon behaved very well-love the neck of this pattern. Added cuffs to sleeves because they wear the best (IMHO).
Love these TNT pants! Pocket facing and waistband in light cotton. Omitted the flat front and tie.
Vests are every “wear” in RTW but the patterns for sewists are skimpy. I started with two Simplicity patterns, one with a shoulder dart and one a bust dart. Made a muslin and looked at all the changes needed so instead of reinventing the wheel I pulled out Burda 5869.
Omitted the stand collar. Used the sleeve facing as armhole facing. Pattern includes lining with a back facing. Omitted zip.
What I learned (I think):
keep the main fabric equal or heavier than the lining
Interface the hem when using the elenapatternstudio method. It was fun to do it again-it came a bit easier.
Garment Sewing Group January 2025
Wednesday, January 8, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Thursday, Thursday, January 9, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, January 11, 10:30, Sew Inviting , St. Paul (Sewing Lounge is closed first two weeks of January)
Here’s some of what we saw at Sewing Lounge on Saturday!
Join us on Wednesday at Lakes Makerie or Thursday at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley
Here is the last of the meetings for October-scroll down for Debbie and Kristin garments and notes:
October 2024
Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
1. This fabric was gifted to me and I felt it was a great opportunity to use for fit and construction techniques for View A from the same pattern.
2. For fit I did not shorten between shoulder and bust but did shorten 1 inch between waist and hip and 1 inch between hip and hem. I shortened the sleeve length by 2 inches. I also did a narrow shoulder adjustment.
3. I used “soft” tailoring techniques only adding a sleeve head, shoulder pads and interfacing to all hems.
4. For my next make I will interface entire front, upper back and sleeve cap. I will also make a greater narrow shoulder adjustment. The sleeve cap has too much ease so I will also remove some of that before cutting out View A.
5. Although Burda patterns can be skimpy in directions, words, photos and notches, the jacket went together fairly easy and quickly.
6. I did enjoy the process and I am looking forward to making view A.
1. This is a TNT pant pattern for me and how much I like and wear these pants depends on the fabric. The linen/viscose fabric is okay but I think I prefer a more structured fabric.
2. I eliminate the pieced waistband and make it one piece. I also eliminate the faux zipper and waist tie.
Graphic Print V-Neck Top Jalie 2682
1. Another Jalie TNT pattern for me.
2. I raised the neckline on this make due to the fall weather.
3. Due to 1/4” sa and serging I topstitched the seams to prevent curling and more comfort while wearing.
1. Another TNT pattern. After making my wool jacket it was a nice break to stitch up a few basics to add to my wardrobe. Easy is quick and fun. Now I am ready for a more challenging garment make for November.
November Garment Sewing Group
Saturday, November 9, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Wednesday, November 13, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Thursday, November 14, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Sew Social this month: Oct. 10 and 24, 1-4 pm, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Kristin’s Garments:
1. Pattern has a lining that goes past bust so I made that first for a fit muslin. Cut out a size 16.
2. Decided to make seam allowance 3/8” instead of 5/8” at neckline and also cut for highest neckline (it wasn’t much of a difference between sizes). Kept the 5/8” seam allowance for armholes.
3. Omitted back zip but would stitch neck closed and put zipper below to keep things neat.
4. Adjusted for my hips. Back darts gave nice shaping but fit seemed problematic in lots of places.
5. Resewed the side seams at 1/4” and all problems went away-Yeay!!
6. Definitely a keeper pattern for wearing and fitting.
7. Wore the sheath with Vogue 9347 window pane jacket.
1. Made size Medium to pattern except for length. Collar has a partial back stand. Pattern includes lining or facings for no lining.
2. Other than a few marking notches being off or nonexistent the pattern went together very well and instructions were good although some of the language isn’t what we’re used to: face to face instead of right sides together.
3. Added patch pockets instead of welt.
4. I chose to add a facing for the back neck and wish I would have assembled the lining separately so the garment wasn’t so bulky at neck seam-next time!
1. Caroline showed this top last month at Ginny’s and it looked like fun. I made an 8 at the bust and 14 at hip. Pattern calls for fluid knits-cotton knit probably wouldn’t twist.
2. Easy construction except for the piddliness of working with rayon knit. It’s always worth it when the garment is done.
3. Some techniques are overdone for knits-interfacing back neck and understitching neck binding. I didn’t understitch and the neck band was 1 1/2” too long but that could have been a cutting error on my part 🙂
4. Fit is great and it’s a nice vee for me. Twist is easy and looks good-no wrong sides peeking through. Might be a good scrap buster.
One more meeting for you to get your sewing inspiration for the month! Saturday, Oct. 12 we’ll be at Lakes Makerie, 10:30.
Here is what we saw at Ginny’s in Rochester and Creative Sewing in Apple Valley:
It was the day before Mother’s Day and this wonderful mother/daughters group was the highlight of the morning!! So cool to gather around a love of making clothes!
This is how my day in Rochester (at Mezza9) began…
And then (at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics) the day only got better…
On to Thursday at Creative Sewing…
See you Saturday at Sewing Lounge!!
Lots of inspiration and it all starts again next week!
May Garment Sewing Group meetings-first time free! Bring what you’ve been sewing-
Wednesday, May 8, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester-carpool anyone??
Thursday, May 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley-and fabric swap!
Saturday, May 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
May meetings start next week-
Wednesday, May 8, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester-carpool??
Thursday, May 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, May 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
April 2024 Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
1. I have made this shirt before and knew that I needed to make some fitting adjustments this time including shortening between the shoulder and bust, waist and hip and the hem length. I also shortened the length of the sleeves.
2. I eliminated shoulder gathers and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.
3. The placket is wider than a traditional shirt and the neck opening for the collar is also wide.
4. I used larger buttons for the placket and the same style but smaller buttons for the narrow cuffs.
5. I find the Itch To Stitch patterns excellent in fit, construction details and instructions. However this is an older pattern from their collection so I probably will not make it again due to wide placket and neck opening.
1. I did my standard fit adjustments for Itch To Stitch patterns.
2. This was a slow but enjoyable make. There are 70 construction steps!
3. Precise pocket placement, stitching and zipper insertion was a challenge for me only because it was difficult to see due to the dark color. I did find the fabric and color forgiving though.
4. I am not sure about the drawstring feature. It seems like the buttonholes for the drawstring should be further from zipper edge and I am not a fan of the toggles.
5. It was a fun and very satisfying project. I would make it again but not for awhile!
1. I used the original blouse back for the new front.
2. I used the front of the original blouse for bottom back section of new blouse.
3. To complete a full blouse back I made a yoke from a linen scrap for the upper portion of the new blouse back.
4. The sleeves are from the original with minor adjustments.
5. I used a serged bias edge for neckline finish.
6. I love the rayon twill. Even though I may just wear this around the house the refashion was worth it.
1. This pattern is a TNT for me. I find it easy to use as a base to copy ready-to-wear tees or other tee patterns.
2. It was a fun, easy and quick make with great fabric.
Kristin’s Garments:
1. This fabric wanted me to make it into a garment! The colors are perfect for spring/summer.
2. I made a trial garment in the other color way that I didn’t like so I’d know how the fabric behaved.
3. Ponte was used for the back piece and bands to give the handwoven fabric some stability. The weight was similar and it stabilized the seams where it was used.
4. The fabric didn’t have much stretch at all but tended to ravel. Serging or zigzagging was helpful.
5. I had to use both sides as I couldn’t choose a favorite.
Delta Cargo Pants/StyleArc Patterns/12 oz. Denim-pictured above)
1. Compared to my favorite Barry Pants (also a Stylearc pattern) they have more ease through hips and waist.
2. I didn’t add pockets as elastic waists don’t support my phone to say nothing of tools!!
1. Fun pattern-instructions well done-drafting well done, markings, etc.
2. I made it to pattern and this wouldn’t be anything I could wear “over’ much more than a tank top 🙂 But the fit is very good-I went up 2 sizes for my hip and everything was great-except the narrowness of sleeves and the shoulders/back is a close fit. All good-just need to go up a size.
3. Denim was heavy and thick so I would do more seam allowance trimming on pockets-anything to decrease bulk.
4. Zipper chest pocket was cool but just too bulky and my cell didn’t fit after making it bigger so just left it off.
1. Same as jacket above for quality of pattern. Fit was much better for the garment.
2. Fly instructions were a bit of a head scratcher but that might just be me.
3. Love all the technical pockets and used the ones I thought would be most helpful for me.
4. Nice to remember that denim is a stretchier woven fabric.
May Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, May 8, 10:30, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester
Thursday, May 9, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, May 11, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Material Girl Sewing 