Corduroy and shirt style seemed to be a theme this month-

Garment Sewing Group

November 2021

Debbie’s Garments:

Rustic Fall Print Shirt Dress

McCalls 7470, View B

Fine wale corduroy

1. This pattern caught my eye due to the shoulder princess seams – which often times makes fitting easier.  My standard fitting adjustments worked well.
2. It is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there is a great amount of fitting and construction detail.
3. I made the following construction changes:  burrito roll for yoke, button placket ws to rs and did not hem until buttonholes and buttons completed. Also eliminated all slip stitching.
4. I needed to do some pattern drafting because I misplaced the front yoke pattern piece. I really needed to scrimp on the tie belt due to lack of fabric.  A fun make.

Navy Stripe Banded Hem Shirt

My TNT shirt pattern, Kwik Sew 3555 (OOP)

adapted, using Threads article August/September, 2011, 

Simple Touches for Standout Blouses by Linda Lee.

Cotton/linen blend

1. While going through sewing supplies I came across this article and thought it would work with my fabric. It was a challenge but glad I gave it a try. 
2. To create the bottom bands I removed 2” from shirt hems and added seam allowance to shirt and bands. The bands were stitched to shirt front and back before any construction. If I did this method again I would either interface or line bands for more body.
3. I used contrast fabric for yoke, under collar, neckband and cuffs. Ribbon trim was also added to button band.

Relaxed Clay Colored Cardi

Simplicity 9374, View D

Light weight organic cotton fleece

1. Made standard fitting adjustments and went from size small to extra small – it is really oversized.
2. I stabilized the shoulder seams with clear elastic, eliminated  pockets and interfacing. 

Paisley Print Tee (see photo above)

McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848

Cotton knit with very little stretch.

This is my TNT tee pattern. I started out making a turtle neck and scratched that and went to a neckband. That also had to be nixed due to the lack of stretch. Last resort – contrast wrapped neck trim. Whew – not a fun fabric in any sense!

Kristin’s Garments:

Casual Chanel 

Vogue 7975

Navy wool/multicolor wool

1. I wanted more of a structured sweater. Fabric is very stable.
2. Shortened length at waist by 2” all around which widened hips and shortened jacket.
3. Seam allowances 1/4” at hip area.
4. Made a “dart” in vertical shoulder seams (front and back) to bring shoulders in.
5. Sewed, topstitched seams open and trimmed to reduce bulk.
6. Didn’t want facings so finished neck with bias binding and turned under center front.

Uniform Pinafore?? 

The Whittaker by Merchant & Mills

Cotton corduroy

1. I was attracted by the pattern when I saw it in a Foldline post (they do a great job of grouping like patterns and reviewing them).
2. Made the short version to pattern. Bodice is faced with lining fabric. No other lining.
3. Fold-in facings at sides weren’t well marked (IMHO) so it took some fiddling to get it to lie flat. Ended up stitching it down to reduce bulk.
4. Jury’s out as to whether it will become a uniform or a one off 🙂

Floral/Spider Blouse

KS 3555 OOP-purchased easily on Etsy

Cotton-not quite quilting/not quite lawn, nice hand

1. After a disastrous attempt at using SBCC’s Harvey Shirt, I went back to KS 3555 to see if I still liked it as much as I once had. I do!! Love the techniques and drafting. Just need to add an inch to length of sleeves next time. 
2. No bust dart, casual fit without being slouchy. Fold on placket, burrito roll yoke.

Slippery Leggings

Clara Leggings by Jalie

Activewear knit

1. Thinking I had the right pattern, because I had already made a shortie legging, I made a length adjustment and cut out the pattern.
2. Unfortunately, I didn’t pay enough attention to the stretch of the fabric. They’re moving on to a smaller daughter. Cool pattern, tho!

December 2021 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, December 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Thursday,December 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday,December 11, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul