Saturday at Lakes Makerie

Just catching up on April Garment Sewing Group pics-before next week when our May meetings begin at Ginny’s!!! Saturday’s meeting is at Sewing Lounge-not Lakes as we told you at April meetings!

Wednesday, May 8, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester (let me know if you want to carpool)

Thursday, May 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, May 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul (this is a change from GSG sheet!!)

Power Sports Bra/Greenstyle Patterns
Fehrtrade Surf to Summit Top
Grainline Studio Alder Dress
McCalls 7360
Butterick 5719
Back view

And some beautiful knitting!

What We Saw at Lakes Makerie

Here are the makes from Saturday’s Garment Sewing Group meeting-new people too!

Bailey’s sweat shirt
Alabama Chanin details
Marceau Top/Sewing Workshop
Simplicity 9744
Second Sewing for Kids/Kwiksew dress
Cap Sleeve Vest/The Assembly Line and Persephone Pant/Anna Allen
Merlo Field Tee/Sew House Seven in cotton knit
Tabor Vest/Sew House Seven in sweater knit
Fable Dress/Twig and Tale
Two bamboo Toasters (Sew House Seven) on two totally contrasted testers
Designer detail from photo above

February Garment Sewing Group

Another great month of inspirational sewing! Here are the photos and notes from Debbie and Kristin-

Garment Sewing Group

February 2024

Debbie’s Garments:

Love Notions Largo Cargo Pants/cotton twill gabardine

1. Fitting adjustments include shortening length 1 and 1/2 inches, narrow the leg width from my size at knee to smallest size at hem and straightening out hip curve. I also removed 1/4” from center back seam at waist for about 4 inches due to gapping.

2. I eliminated the strap and belt loops.

3. The pattern has several positives. The instructions are good and there is a video link for zipper insertion. I also like that the zipper shield is included. The waistband and facing are shaped nicely and enhances the overall look of the pants.

4. In my opinion there a few cons – the pocket flap should be interfaced. One side seam should be stitched then side pocket attached and then stitch remaining side seam. Most importantly, the pocket placement lines are difficult to decipher.

5. Overall I feel this is a good pattern. I like the crotch depth and contour waist. I would use this pattern again without the cargo pocket.

New Look 6771/bamboo French terry

1. I shortened the length of the tee by 1 and 1/2 inches.

2. I narrowed the sleeves from the elbow to one inch less at hem.

3. I made the band into a split band.

4. The cons for this pattern is that the neck piece is a lot. The instructions include stay stitching and gathering sleeves before setting in. I don’t feel those steps are necessary on most knits. If I make it again I would remove some width from the neckband and maybe use pleats rather than gathers for the neckband.

Simplicity 9275, Adapted/fleece and jersey knit

1. I made this top last fall and thought I would try it again as a stash buster.

2. I was short on fabric so I used the jersey knit for neckband and pocket trim. I also needed to adjust the sleeves by adding a long cuff.

3. The tee does brighten up winter and uses up fabric scraps but I do not need to make this pattern again!

Upcoming Classes:

Sewing With Knits-One Day Intensive-Wednesday, February 28, 10-4 pm at Quilter’s Haven

Basic & Beyond Sergery-One Day Intensive-Thursday, February 29, 10 am-4 pm

Kristin’s Garments:

Itch to Stitch Andes Jacket/fleece backed soft shell, stretch woven lining

1. Followed directions exactly when making toile. But then I thought I was smarter than the pattern maker for my final garment!! A good argument for making the entire pattern-zips, pockets and all?!

Toile in ponte and seersucker

2. Fit changes-I needed to up size for hips: instead of messing with the pocket area upper and lower piece I cut up into pattern and swung open as needed to avoid pocket area.

3. Drafting is great-all pieces fit together very well. Pocket zippers were in my stash. Ordered main zipper from Wawak and they came quickly but selection is limited for the dual seperating zippers but as long as the jacket is, I had to be able to zip up from bottom.

4. My narrow and regular walking feet were indispensable and hardworking (a Janome feature). Most seams were serged and then topstitched. Didn’t use coverstitch at all.

5. The zip is the last thing to go in and I didn’t put the zip in the toile before I started the final garment. That’s where I thought I was smarter and now I think maybe the pattern maker ran out of steam as the instructions for the zip are pretty basic and I had to do more filling in of the blanks at that point.

6. I was glad I did the zip after hood installation-less jacket to maneuver as I topstitched. A 30” zipper was perfect for the size that I made.

7. Wrinkles were an issue as they didn’t iron out. A run through the washer/dryer…??

8. I like all the details and the fabric choices. Am hoping this is an active wear jacket that will keep necessary parts warm.

9. The toile was fun also and I look forward to putting on a regular collar and adding finishing touches.

New Look 6771/bamboo fleece
New Look 6771/side by side

1. Pants: Added 1” length-should have added more. Pants turned out much baggier than the photo but I am reserving judgment till they come out of the dryer. Perhaps an ankle band?

1. Waistband is wide for just 1” elastic and kind of high. Will cut down.

2. Sweatershirt: As Debbie said, the sleeves are wide at wrist, neck is overdone but I like the feel of it (the fabric!!) and will remove the band (it’s all too long and looks better without) and put a tuck in the sleeve with a band as that makes it more snuggly 🙂

1. I did remove 2” from the neck band and used pleats instead of gathers but it’s a lot to put in and shouldn’t be attempted late at night!

2. I’m glad I put the pocket on-it was surprisingly flat and not pouchy-at least before laundering-

March Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, March 9, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St.Paul

Wednesday, March 13, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, March 14, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

February Makes

We’ve had a great start to our February meetings! Last chance is tomorrow at Lakes Makerie-10:30 am. Hope to see you—

Sewing Workshop Icon Vest
Self drafted motorcycle pants in Cordura-300 denier weight
Love Notions La Bella Donna-knit
Cotton knit dress from KwikSew Sewing for Children book
Simplicity 9272 knit jackets/Blouse-Zen from Now & Zen Sewing Workshop
Back pleat detail from Zen Shirt
Marley Shirt/StyleArc in wool challis
Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven in sweater knit
Toaster Sweater (other version) in short sleeves with Brussels Skirt/Loes Hinse with the perfect boots to boot!!
Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop in lightweight Japanese cotton
Vintage Board Shirt in Pendleton wool
Florence Shirt/Sewing Workshop back detail
Simplicity 9825 and 9471 mashup in brushed cotton
Final version of vintage and self drafted vest
One jacket became another-based on Vogue 8676
Back view
Burda 6322 in japanese cotton
Clare Coat/Closet Core in wool
Day brightener lining!!

Saturday’s Makes in January

Loden Sweater/Dressmaker’s Guild in boiled wool
Burda 8168
Andes Jacket/Itch to Stitch
Ilford Jacket/Friday Pattern Company
Simplicity 9198 vest
Vetiver Dress/Peony Patterns
The Assembly Line Shirt in flannel
Sharon Holland bag in Miss Matatabi fabric
Burda 7045 men’s shirt and Vogue 9347
Burda 8296
Favorite tee Vogue 9057
Hand knit sweater in exchange for corduroy shirt
Jalie T-shirt and runners from paperpieces.com

January Garment Sewing Group Handout

Garment Sewing Group

January 2024

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Burda 5855 in wool-Kristin made same pattern in Oct.

This is an unlined jacket pattern but since I was using a wool I wanted to line it. I drafted a pattern for the front and back lining. I did some “light” tailoring by interfacing all hems and using a wigum (sleeve head) in the sleeve cap. I also bagged the lining.

1. The collar piece in the pattern is rounded. However the pattern picture, line drawing and instruction sheet show the collar squared off. I adjusted the collar piece to look like pattern.

2. The pattern is labeled super easy. Hopefully even though the pattern does not mention stay stitching or understitching most sewers would use these techniques.

3. I appreciate the bust darts – gives the jacket less boxy look.

4. The pattern calls for hand sewn snaps that do not show for the closure. I don’t think I will use any closures.

Simplicity 1538, view C with cuff from view D in cotton

1. I heard good things about this pattern so I thought I would give it a try and compare it to another TNT shirt pattern in my stash.

2. Fit changes that I made include shortening between shoulder and bust, removing 3 inches in length and a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. I did change order of construction because I like to work with the piece flat as long as possible.

4. The directions for the shirt are very good. They include the burrito method for the yoke and the collar and neckband directions are excellent.

5. The band is a sew on and the directions have you sew rs of band to ws of shirt which gives a clean finish. I used my standard machine for construction and French seams as well as my serger.

6. I feel it is a very good pattern and I will use it again but will soften the hemline curve and change the gathered yoke to a pleat.

KwikSew 3555 in tencel

1. This is the TNT shirt pattern I referred to above.

2. Some of the differences between the McCalls and Kwiksew pattern are that the seam allowance for KS is 1/4 inch, sleeve construction is flat and the band is cut on the front, no facing.

3. I used French seams as much as possible because of the color of the shirt. I am not sure I like the feel of the French seam on both shirts in the armhole.

4. Also the McCalls shirt has bust darts. You can easily add vertical darts on front and back of Kwik sew pattern to get a more fitted look.

5. I like both patterns and they will both be a TNT in my pattern stash.

February Garment Sewing Group

*Moved up one week – Wednesday, February 7, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St.Paul

Thursday, February 8th, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, February 10, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Kristin’s Garments:

Loden Sweater/Dressmaker’s Guild in cotton velvet

1. Several people have shown this pattern (free! only pay for printing) but I guess I wasn’t listening very well. It is made for boiled wool and has unfinished hems and outside facing seams. But the pattern was already cut out (I did wonder about the vent cut outs…

2. The velvet looked more refined so I didn’t expose any seams plus the fabric would have shed for a while and it also rolls.

3. The sleeves are extra long so you can fold them up so I shortened them.

4. The collar was single layer but I sewed two together and love the result.

5. The vents were angled up into the seam allowance-happy with that too.

6. I had three buttons but the thickness of the collar allowed only two so I put the last one on the pocket 🙂

Marie-Claude Raglan/Jalie and Ruby Joggers/Paprika Patterns

1. Several people have also made this raglan turtleneck (neck has two pieces) and it was waiting in my pattern stash. Love raglans, especially when sewing for family and size range can’t be beat.

2. Also love the cuff (didn’t do the thumb hole). Finishes up a turtle so nicely.

3. The turtleneck is doubled and at first I thought too much but it grew on me. Great fit all over as usual for Jalie. Another favorite turtleneck pattern!!

Ruby Joggers/Paprika Patterns

1. I had an earlier pair in my closet that was seeing a lot of wear so I thought I’d try them again. I had thrown away the pattern (should have been a hint!) so had to reorder.

2. Chose my size but yoke in back was way too big.

3. Made some necessary changes and then some more! and they are OK but again the pattern will not stay in rotation (and I’ll make a note somewhere (?) to not try again.

4. I did learn one thing tho-the pocket bag that is totally sewn into the side seam gives a smoother finish for me than the pocket that is only partially sewn into seam and then hangs.

Simplicity R11967/9818 in cotton shirting

1. Beautiful vintage blouse with lots of tuck/darts at the waist but, alas, not for me! After much tailor tacking and knot tying, the blouse would not fit around me so out they all came!!

2. Lowered bust dart 1 inch and could have lowered a bit more.

3. Underarms were high along with tight circumference so 5/8” side seam became 1/4”.

4. Sleeves were 3/4 length so added about 3” and changed the cuff.

5. Stripes were fun-I’m tempted to buy more fabric and try some shadowing.

6. It was a fun sew-maybe again in summer and a larger size!!

Fashion TV to watch- Jan. 19, Disney “Cristobal Balenciaga” and Feb. 14, Apple TV “The New Look” about Christian Dior and contemporaries.

January Makes by You

Fun meetings at Lakes Makerie and Creative Sewing! We’re hoping to be at The Sewing Lounge on Saturday morning at 10:30-Mother Nature willing…

Christine Jonson 3 Tees in sweater knit
The Assembly Line V-Neck Dress in linen
Eva Sweater Dress/Misusu Patterns in cotton knit
McCalls 7262
Tremont Vest/Sewing Workshop in wool and batik
Tie Sweater/The Assembly Line
Jack Tar Bag/Merchant & Mills in oilcloth
Burda 2560 in flannel
Simplicity 8105 in velvet
Rye Vest/By Hand book in linen jacquard
Overshirt Jacket/Wardrobe By Me in cotton velvet
Travel Bags/By Annie in various cottons
Modern Quilt-no pattern
Tello Jacket/Pauline Alice in stretch gabardine
Self drafted running shorts based on Greenstyle Boxers in nylon knit
Toaster Sweaters/Sew House Seven
Arrow Pocket in new lining of coat

A New Year Begins-Garment Sewing Group 2024

First the important info-

Garment Sewing Group meetings begin this Wednesday:

Wednesday, Jan. 10, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Thursday, Jan. 11, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley and Fabric Swap

Saturday, Jan. 13, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

And if you want to read on-

I’ve been catching up on social media and some of the people have marvelous, creative, new plans for the new year-awesome!! Maybe it’s my age, but I can’t get that excited about the big plans. I’m working on the little, day by day improvements that may not look like much but I’m hoping they’ll add up (fingers crossed).

Above are the pajamas that got made-but not all delivered-to the grandkids (yes, there are 3 more sets somewhere).

And then the Kimberbear for the niece of Mom’s caregiver.

And the bridge we’ve been refurbishing at the farm.

So, all in all, a great start to the new year and my garments for January meetings are shaping up!!

Hope to see you in 2024-often!

December Wrap Up

Another month of creative and imaginative sewing!! Thanks for your continued attendance and interest in garment sewing. Here are photos from Wednesday and Thursday meetings.

Have a wonderful holiday celebrating in your favorite, comfy makes and gifting others with your talents! See you in January!!

Pattern trashed but cool moto jacket
Great bags in Pendleton wool-patterns below
Simplicity R11967-picture doesn’t do justice but check out the pattern
Holiday flannel pants/Loraine Torrence Grainline Gear
Picasso Top from Sewing Workshop in stretch cotton
Cashmerette Montrose Top in cotton
Incredible Shrinking Great Copy pattern 🙂 in velvet
The science of bra making
Experimentation
Almost there!
Corduroy shirt for a friend-KwikSew 3555
Hvar Jacket Itch to Stitch
PJ’s for grands-Simplicity 1189
McCall’s 6844
StyleArc Logan Shacket in stretch velvet
Bodywarmer
Taos Skirt/Diane Ericson
Foxhill Dress-Cashmerette
Sando Coat-Merchant & Mills in cotton jacquard
Florence Shirt-Sewing Workshop in wool
Multi Sleeve Dress-The Assembly Line in ponte
Men’s Islander Shirt in Liberty of London

December’s Saturday Pics

We meet for Garment Sewing Group tomorrow (Wednesday) at Sewing Lounge and finish up at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley with the fabric swap on Thursday. See you there!!

Also, for those Gudrun Sjoden fans-there’s a sale this weekend:

Gudrun Sjoden warehouse

5310 West 23rd St, SLP, 55416

-Dec 15 from 3-7 pm

-Dec 16 from 11 am – 3 pm

Self drafted Japanese inspired pant
Decades Everyday Three’s a Charm Jacket
Embellished Jacket OOP pattern
Creative pattern matching
And pleats! (Also one in front)
Fun pant detail (and shoes) not sure if this New Look?
Vogue 1741 Wool Jacket
New quilt!!