Here’s some of what we saw at Sewing Lounge on Saturday!
Join us on Wednesday at Lakes Makerie or Thursday at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley
First Edition/November Garment Sewing Group
October Final
Here is the last of the meetings for October-scroll down for Debbie and Kristin garments and notes:
October 2024
Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
1. This fabric was gifted to me and I felt it was a great opportunity to use for fit and construction techniques for View A from the same pattern.
2. For fit I did not shorten between shoulder and bust but did shorten 1 inch between waist and hip and 1 inch between hip and hem. I shortened the sleeve length by 2 inches. I also did a narrow shoulder adjustment.
3. I used “soft” tailoring techniques only adding a sleeve head, shoulder pads and interfacing to all hems.
4. For my next make I will interface entire front, upper back and sleeve cap. I will also make a greater narrow shoulder adjustment. The sleeve cap has too much ease so I will also remove some of that before cutting out View A.
5. Although Burda patterns can be skimpy in directions, words, photos and notches, the jacket went together fairly easy and quickly.
6. I did enjoy the process and I am looking forward to making view A.
1. This is a TNT pant pattern for me and how much I like and wear these pants depends on the fabric. The linen/viscose fabric is okay but I think I prefer a more structured fabric.
2. I eliminate the pieced waistband and make it one piece. I also eliminate the faux zipper and waist tie.
Graphic Print V-Neck Top Jalie 2682
1. Another Jalie TNT pattern for me.
2. I raised the neckline on this make due to the fall weather.
3. Due to 1/4” sa and serging I topstitched the seams to prevent curling and more comfort while wearing.
1. Another TNT pattern. After making my wool jacket it was a nice break to stitch up a few basics to add to my wardrobe. Easy is quick and fun. Now I am ready for a more challenging garment make for November.
November Garment Sewing Group
Saturday, November 9, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Wednesday, November 13, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Thursday, November 14, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Sew Social this month: Oct. 10 and 24, 1-4 pm, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Kristin’s Garments:
1. Pattern has a lining that goes past bust so I made that first for a fit muslin. Cut out a size 16.
2. Decided to make seam allowance 3/8” instead of 5/8” at neckline and also cut for highest neckline (it wasn’t much of a difference between sizes). Kept the 5/8” seam allowance for armholes.
3. Omitted back zip but would stitch neck closed and put zipper below to keep things neat.
4. Adjusted for my hips. Back darts gave nice shaping but fit seemed problematic in lots of places.
5. Resewed the side seams at 1/4” and all problems went away-Yeay!!
6. Definitely a keeper pattern for wearing and fitting.
7. Wore the sheath with Vogue 9347 window pane jacket.
1. Made size Medium to pattern except for length. Collar has a partial back stand. Pattern includes lining or facings for no lining.
2. Other than a few marking notches being off or nonexistent the pattern went together very well and instructions were good although some of the language isn’t what we’re used to: face to face instead of right sides together.
3. Added patch pockets instead of welt.
4. I chose to add a facing for the back neck and wish I would have assembled the lining separately so the garment wasn’t so bulky at neck seam-next time!
1. Caroline showed this top last month at Ginny’s and it looked like fun. I made an 8 at the bust and 14 at hip. Pattern calls for fluid knits-cotton knit probably wouldn’t twist.
2. Easy construction except for the piddliness of working with rayon knit. It’s always worth it when the garment is done.
3. Some techniques are overdone for knits-interfacing back neck and understitching neck binding. I didn’t understitch and the neck band was 1 1/2” too long but that could have been a cutting error on my part 🙂
4. Fit is great and it’s a nice vee for me. Twist is easy and looks good-no wrong sides peeking through. Might be a good scrap buster.
Wednesday and Thursday Garments
One more meeting for you to get your sewing inspiration for the month! Saturday, Oct. 12 we’ll be at Lakes Makerie, 10:30.
Here is what we saw at Ginny’s in Rochester and Creative Sewing in Apple Valley:
Frocktails Pics/October Meetings This Week!
First off-Garment Sewing Group meetings:
Wednesday, Oct. 9 at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester (let me know if you want to carpool)
Thursday, Oct. 10 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley (and fabric swap!)
Saturday, Oct. 12 at Lakes Makerie (beginning serger class offered at 1 pm following GSG)
And then Frocktails!!!! Thanks go to organizers Hannah, Madee and Elin!! Food, beverages, venue, decorations, mixers, raffle…awesome!
I’m almost positive you can see that YOU fit in to this group-make sure you are there next year!!
Debbie and Kristin’s September Garments
September 2024
Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
1. Fitting – shortened between shoulder and bust and 3 more inches proportionally from length on front, back and sleeves. I also narrowed the width of the collar one inch.
2. I needed to shorten the jacket so much that the pocket placement was altered too much so I eliminated them.
3. The thickness of the fabric, intersecting of seams, dark color and herringbone design made topstitching a challenge. I used strong topstitching thread and tried a walking presser foot but found my standard foot to work the best.
4. I could not find the correct size of zipper – so once again I needed to shorten the zipper at neckline – bummer!
5. I like the jacket but would not make it again.
1. I named this blouse switch-a-roo because the end result doesn’t look like what is pictured on the pattern envelope!
2. I was drawn to this pattern because of the collar. It appears to be what I thought was a Revere collar. Doing some research I found a camp shirt collar with notches and a wing collar labeled as Revere collars. Oh well – no matter the name, I like how the collar on this pattern is constructed with the grown on facing and attached collar. I feel it lays better than the one piece collar I have used in the past.
3. The pattern is described as over sized and it certainly is – I went down 2 sizes.
4. View B is too short. No where in the pattern is the term cropped used.
5. To add more length I added a bias strip along the hem with the small amount of leftover fabric I had.
6. The edge of the cuffs were rounded – I squared them off. Once constructed and attached to the sleeve they felt and looked too bulky. I cut off the cuffs and added a bias strip cuff to the sleeve hems.
7. Many changes were made to this pattern-thus the name switch-a-roo. I would make it again my way just like Old Blue Eyes!
1. I liked the causal style of a RTW blouse and tried to copy the fabric and style . The fabric worked well but I may have made the blouse too short – again!
2. I eliminated the pocket but added contrast with buttons and bias tape added to button and cuff placket.
3. A fun fall make.
Olive Jeans -Jalie Eleanore , TNT pattern that I have made several times.
Kristin’s Garments:
1. This is clearly advertised as a unisex pattern which usually makes me think the pattern will tend toward the male body proportions. After making the pattern twice now, that is not true.
2. Pattern directions and drafting are great. Other than the challenge of sewing on heavier wale corduroy, the sew went well. Collar seam is finished with Hong Kong finish and Liberty of London.
3. The eye opening came when I tried the robe on my husband-shawl collar and sleeves too short, waist and pocket placement too high. I had already gotten rid of the A-line of the side seams.
4. Bottom line: I like the robe for me but it doesn’t fit a man and there were no allusions to this in pattern directions. If only I had seen the robe on the body of the first receiver!!
One Pattern Three Ways
1. Pretty much to pattern in linen-other than the collar being half the height of the pattern, it is made to pattern. The front neck is rather low, the overlap at center front is 3” to accommodate large buttons. I think the combination of the low neck and overlap give the collar an asymmetric drape.
1. Raised the neck all around to nothing at the back
2. Straightened and shortened the short sleeve
3. Used the pattern piece for sleeve detail but pleated to achieve the look and then released pleats at elbow
4. Omitted collar and made the front facing sewn on and ended at center front
5. Fabric was a joy to work with-so many ways to highlight the window pane effect and it was on grain so very easy to match!!
1. Used the pattern pieces as above but placed center front on fold
2. Gathered the sleeve piece at wrist and finished with a band
3. Finished neck with bias strip
Places to go-people to see:
Frocktails! A great reason to dress/sew your best and see and be seen 🙂
Saturday, October 5, 6-10 pm, Fulton Brewery, 414 N. 6th Ave., Mpls, $125 use materialgirls10 for discount
Road Trip to Kansas City/Topeka-October 28-31
Get out of town and visit Asiatica (an amazing company that upcycles vintage kimono) and The Sewing Workshop/Linda Lee. We’ll schedule the visits and let you know hotels, etc. You will need to organize your carpool or fit in with another. Not a handholding/we’ll take care of all the details trip-more of an “I’m going, would you like to go at the same time? This is where I’m staying and where I’ll stop.”
October Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, October 9, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester
Thursday, October 10, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, October 12, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Mpls.
Last Month’s (July) Garment Sewing Group
***One more GSG meeting in August-Wednesday, Aug. 21 at Lakes Makerie!!
Debbie and Kristin’s garments:
July 2024
Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
1. The fit – I shortened length between shoulders and bust and also between waist and hip. Unfortunately I neglected to shorten the the neckband and as a result it was too long for neck edge. I didn’t figure that out until almost too late. Just one reason I am not pleased with this make.
2. The pattern-the directions are few and too often vague. Many places on the pattern pieces should have a notch to match pieces together. For example, the front and back of sleeve armhole. There is no mention of interfacing center fronts for zipper.
3. The construction-the serger is often used in directions-definitely a plus. The zipper is inserted last and the lining is bagged. The lining at zipper needs to be slip stitched. I think you could leave an opening in one side seam, insert zipper in main fabric and lining and then sew up opening in side seam.
4. The bottom band goes around the entire jacket. I would have liked to have a main fabric piece on both sides of zipper. Sewing the zipper to the ribbing wasn’t pleasant.
5. Finding ribbing and zipper to go with jacket was difficult. If the jacket front was up closer to neck I may have found a better length of zipper. Having too long of a zipper generally doesn’t look the greatest In my opinion.
6. I wasn’t successful finding the correct zipper to make the jacket reversible.
7. This was an okay make – if there is a next time I would pay attention to what I listed above and make changes for a more successful project.
* Tee from ribbing is a TNT pattern that I use often. I learned the hard way that I needed to go down a size or two due to negative ease.
1. Fit – Did my standard petiting for length. No issues there.
2. The pattern – There are two back designs. One has a yoke and pleats, the other is a full back. The directions are clear and concise and the construction is all done by machine – no slip stitching. I feel the pattern runs small in size, especially in hip area.
3. For this make I “faced” the yoke and used the burrito roll for construction.
4. I evened out the front and back hems and did a narrow hem rather than a faced hem.
5. The width of the cuff for the sleeve was much narrower than pattern shows so I added 3/4 inch in width to cuff pattern – much easier to work with.
6. I liked this pattern so I made it again!
1. For this make I lined the front and full back. I thought a facing for the neckline would be too heavy so instead I used a serged bias strip for the v-neck.
2. The main fabric and lining are stitched together at side seams and also at the 5/8 inch hem.
3. The sleeves are not lined. I used the selvage edge of the lining for the cuffs.
4. A fun make that seems trendy but not too frilly!
Kristin’s Garments:
1. Wanted a sleep tank and this pattern has a center front seam (and back too) so it made the vee very easy.
2. Watched a video from Closet Core about an armhole binding that mimics my Eddie Bauer tank. They used a 5/8” seam allowance for the binding but that seemed too wide so I tried 3/8”. Applied arm hole band, single layer, right sides together, wrapped binding around seam allowance and cover stitched and trimmed excess. I like the look.
1. French terry version-used fold over elastic for pocket band.
2. Omitted ankle band on activewear version.
3. Put pleats in activewear version. Rise needs to be higher or elastic looser (and wear them lower 🙂
1. Just had to try another puff sleeve pattern and then I realized how close it was to Burda 6146 that I made previously. The Mocha pattern doesn’t have a bust dart-Burda does. Mocha has a back yoke option. I was going to do the yoke but started cutting the regular back so went with it!
2. Compared front and back armhole and they were equal plus the back neck seemed low so I cut 1/2” from front shoulders and did nothing to back. I also went down a size for the sleeve to accommodate the change. It’s a big sleeve so should be no problem.
3. Very happy with the top. Leveled the hem and sleeve cuffs are to pattern and serged to sleeve after sewing the side/underarm seam.
*Please Note – GSG Dates will not be the second week of the month in August.
August Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, August, 15, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, August 17, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Wednesday, August 21, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Saturday’s Sew and Tell
It was the day before Mother’s Day and this wonderful mother/daughters group was the highlight of the morning!! So cool to gather around a love of making clothes!
May’s Wednesday/Thursday Makes
This is how my day in Rochester (at Mezza9) began…
And then (at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics) the day only got better…
On to Thursday at Creative Sewing…
See you Saturday at Sewing Lounge!!
Wednesday’s Makes/April GSG
Lots of inspiration and it all starts again next week!
May Garment Sewing Group meetings-first time free! Bring what you’ve been sewing-
Wednesday, May 8, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester-carpool anyone??
Thursday, May 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley-and fabric swap!
Saturday, May 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
April Garment Sewing Group
May meetings start next week-
Wednesday, May 8, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester-carpool??
Thursday, May 9, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, May 11, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
April 2024 Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
1. I have made this shirt before and knew that I needed to make some fitting adjustments this time including shortening between the shoulder and bust, waist and hip and the hem length. I also shortened the length of the sleeves.
2. I eliminated shoulder gathers and did a narrow shoulder adjustment.
3. The placket is wider than a traditional shirt and the neck opening for the collar is also wide.
4. I used larger buttons for the placket and the same style but smaller buttons for the narrow cuffs.
5. I find the Itch To Stitch patterns excellent in fit, construction details and instructions. However this is an older pattern from their collection so I probably will not make it again due to wide placket and neck opening.
1. I did my standard fit adjustments for Itch To Stitch patterns.
2. This was a slow but enjoyable make. There are 70 construction steps!
3. Precise pocket placement, stitching and zipper insertion was a challenge for me only because it was difficult to see due to the dark color. I did find the fabric and color forgiving though.
4. I am not sure about the drawstring feature. It seems like the buttonholes for the drawstring should be further from zipper edge and I am not a fan of the toggles.
5. It was a fun and very satisfying project. I would make it again but not for awhile!
1. I used the original blouse back for the new front.
2. I used the front of the original blouse for bottom back section of new blouse.
3. To complete a full blouse back I made a yoke from a linen scrap for the upper portion of the new blouse back.
4. The sleeves are from the original with minor adjustments.
5. I used a serged bias edge for neckline finish.
6. I love the rayon twill. Even though I may just wear this around the house the refashion was worth it.
1. This pattern is a TNT for me. I find it easy to use as a base to copy ready-to-wear tees or other tee patterns.
2. It was a fun, easy and quick make with great fabric.
Kristin’s Garments:
1. This fabric wanted me to make it into a garment! The colors are perfect for spring/summer.
2. I made a trial garment in the other color way that I didn’t like so I’d know how the fabric behaved.
3. Ponte was used for the back piece and bands to give the handwoven fabric some stability. The weight was similar and it stabilized the seams where it was used.
4. The fabric didn’t have much stretch at all but tended to ravel. Serging or zigzagging was helpful.
5. I had to use both sides as I couldn’t choose a favorite.
Delta Cargo Pants/StyleArc Patterns/12 oz. Denim-pictured above)
1. Compared to my favorite Barry Pants (also a Stylearc pattern) they have more ease through hips and waist.
2. I didn’t add pockets as elastic waists don’t support my phone to say nothing of tools!!
1. Fun pattern-instructions well done-drafting well done, markings, etc.
2. I made it to pattern and this wouldn’t be anything I could wear “over’ much more than a tank top 🙂 But the fit is very good-I went up 2 sizes for my hip and everything was great-except the narrowness of sleeves and the shoulders/back is a close fit. All good-just need to go up a size.
3. Denim was heavy and thick so I would do more seam allowance trimming on pockets-anything to decrease bulk.
4. Zipper chest pocket was cool but just too bulky and my cell didn’t fit after making it bigger so just left it off.
1. Same as jacket above for quality of pattern. Fit was much better for the garment.
2. Fly instructions were a bit of a head scratcher but that might just be me.
3. Love all the technical pockets and used the ones I thought would be most helpful for me.
4. Nice to remember that denim is a stretchier woven fabric.
May Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, May 8, 10:30, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester
Thursday, May 9, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, May 11, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Material Girl Sewing 