November’s meetings ended at Treadle Yard Goods with some great garments. Go to our Facebook page or Instagram for even more photos!
December’s meetings are:
Wednesday, Dec. 8 at Treadle
Thursday, Dec. 9 at First Sewing (including fabric swap)
Saturday, Dec. 11 at Treadle.
Hope to see you!!
Twinsies!! Barcelona from Sewing WorkshopAnd then there were two…Light and Shadows from Cutting Line DesignsA chic thriftstore upcycleAn oldie but goodie Kwiksew 3732-love the lime accents!
Corduroy and shirt style seemed to be a theme this month-
Garment Sewing Group
November 2021
Debbie’s Garments:
Rustic Fall Print Shirt Dress
McCalls 7470, View B
Fine wale corduroy
This pattern caught my eye due to the shoulder princess seams – which often times makes fitting easier. My standard fitting adjustments worked well.
It is a Palmer/Pletsch pattern so there is a great amount of fitting and construction detail.
I made the following construction changes: burrito roll for yoke, button placket ws to rs and did not hem until buttonholes and buttons completed. Also eliminated all slip stitching.
I needed to do some pattern drafting because I misplaced the front yoke pattern piece. I really needed to scrimp on the tie belt due to lack of fabric. A fun make.
Navy Stripe Banded Hem Shirt
My TNT shirt pattern, Kwik Sew 3555 (OOP)
adapted, using Threads article August/September, 2011,
Simple Touches for Standout Blouses by Linda Lee.
Cotton/linen blend
While going through sewing supplies I came across this article and thought it would work with my fabric. It was a challenge but glad I gave it a try.
To create the bottom bands I removed 2” from shirt hems and added seam allowance to shirt and bands. The bands were stitched to shirt front and back before any construction. If I did this method again I would either interface or line bands for more body.
I used contrast fabric for yoke, under collar, neckband and cuffs. Ribbon trim was also added to button band.
Relaxed Clay Colored Cardi
Simplicity 9374, View D
Light weight organic cotton fleece
Made standard fitting adjustments and went from size small to extra small – it is really oversized.
I stabilized the shoulder seams with clear elastic, eliminated pockets and interfacing.
Paisley Print Tee (see photo above)
McCalls 6964/Butterick 6848
Cotton knit with very little stretch.
This is my TNT tee pattern. I started out making a turtle neck and scratched that and went to a neckband. That also had to be nixed due to the lack of stretch. Last resort – contrast wrapped neck trim. Whew – not a fun fabric in any sense!
Kristin’s Garments:
Casual Chanel
Vogue 7975
Navy wool/multicolor wool
I wanted more of a structured sweater. Fabric is very stable.
Shortened length at waist by 2” all around which widened hips and shortened jacket.
Seam allowances 1/4” at hip area.
Made a “dart” in vertical shoulder seams (front and back) to bring shoulders in.
Sewed, topstitched seams open and trimmed to reduce bulk.
Didn’t want facings so finished neck with bias binding and turned under center front.
Uniform Pinafore??
The Whittaker by Merchant & Mills
Cotton corduroy
I was attracted by the pattern when I saw it in a Foldline post (they do a great job of grouping like patterns and reviewing them).
Made the short version to pattern. Bodice is faced with lining fabric. No other lining.
Fold-in facings at sides weren’t well marked (IMHO) so it took some fiddling to get it to lie flat. Ended up stitching it down to reduce bulk.
Jury’s out as to whether it will become a uniform or a one off 🙂
Floral/Spider Blouse
KS 3555 OOP-purchased easily on Etsy
Cotton-not quite quilting/not quite lawn, nice hand
After a disastrous attempt at using SBCC’s Harvey Shirt, I went back to KS 3555 to see if I still liked it as much as I once had. I do!! Love the techniques and drafting. Just need to add an inch to length of sleeves next time.
No bust dart, casual fit without being slouchy. Fold on placket, burrito roll yoke.
Slippery Leggings
Clara Leggings by Jalie
Activewear knit
Thinking I had the right pattern, because I had already made a shortie legging, I made a length adjustment and cut out the pattern.
Unfortunately, I didn’t pay enough attention to the stretch of the fabric. They’re moving on to a smaller daughter. Cool pattern, tho!
December 2021 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, December 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Thursday,December 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday,December 11, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
First it was Treadle, then a trip to Ginny’s and finally a fabric swap at First Sewing-another fun month of sewing, inspiration and getting to know other sewists!
Here are Debbie and Kristin’s garments-more inspiration to come…
Debbie’s Garments:
Deep Green Rayon Floral Shirt
Itch to Stitch Mila Shirt
1. Besides my standard petite shortening requirements just a few pattern changes were made.
2. The chest pocket, shirt tail hem, sleeve tabs and much of the suggested topstitching was omitted because I wanted a less sporty look.
3. The pattern is drafted well and the construction techniques are good. However I interfaced the entire front placket rather than just sections as pattern directed. Too putsy and less accurate in my opinion .
This make was a little slow but well worth it.
Teal/Green Cardigan
New Look 6735, View A
Luxury Plush Rib Knit
1. As usual, standard petite adjustments were made as well as shortening the hem length 4”.
2. This pattern has been around for awhile but is still in the present catalog because it is a classic. However many sewing techniques need to be updated when sewing with knits such as not gathering sleeve cap and sew in flat rather than set in.
3. I tapered the sleeve hem by one inch. I also eliminated the belt.
Once the cardigan was cutout it went together in one hour using the serger and cover stitch machine.
Two Stash Buster Tees:
Teal Print/Solid Contrast Asymmetrical Tee
McCalls 7247
Jersey French Terry/Active Wear Knit
1. A few years ago I made a black and white tee like this by copying RTW. Since then this pattern came available so it was an easy make using my stash.
Blue Tie Dye Dolman Top
Jalie Dolman Top 3352
French Terry
1. This fabric was leftover from the lining I used for my denim Mac coat last month.
I really like this fabric and I wanted to use the left over soon for a cozy top.
2. I did raise the neckline one inch and added a neckband to make it less summery.
Kristin’s Garments:
Fall Trend: Sweater Vest
Sew House Seven Tabor V-Neck
Sweater knit with fleece backing
1. Wary of vee neck but followed directions and it is beautiful!
2. Armholes are turned under and stitched.
3. Great pattern for small pieces of yummy sweater knits.
4. Pattern also has a long sleeve drop shoulder version and has 3 separate sets of pattern pieces. Seems to be a trademark of this brand-great value!
Funnel Neck Pleated Blouse
Simplicity 9231
Rayon woven
1. Features five pleats at neckline and back shoulder darts.
2. Neckline is faced and a bit curved at shoulder seams. Close fitting neck.
3. Inserted an invisible zip instead of a button at neck.
4. Pattern also features a gathered at wrist sleeve-I chose narrow option.
Sweater Vest
Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven
Bulky cotton sweater knit
1. Accidentally cut on cross grain!! Was hoping to let oatmeal knit curl to right side at neck
2. instead-Trimmed front and back neck edges 3/8” above fold line.
3. Made a forward shoulder adjustment.
3. Constructed per pattern.
4. Turned neck edges and armholes under a scant 1/2” and topstitched.
One Thing Led to Another
Sew House Seven Toaster Raglan
Wool and cotton sweater knit plus leftovers from sweater above
1. Lengthened body by 2.5”, shortened turtleneck by 1”, narrowed bottom band by 1”, omitted sleeve band.
2. Constructed per pattern. No itchy wool at neck!
Funnel Neck Dress
Burda 6080
Ponte stripe
1. Funnel neck is narrower and fold down facing deeper than Toaster making it a little less forgiving if your neck is forward.
2. Burda “Easy” pattern instructions are in a different format much like other brands’ learn to sew patterns. Not sure that’s helpful or easier.
3. Slit at hem of sleeve and shirt tail hem.
November Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, November 10, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Thursday, November 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, November 13,Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
The falling leaves and temperatures are finally making me feel like a change in wardrobe-even if only during the early mornings and late evenings 🙂 The weather has been wonderful!
So it’s time to see what the new season will bring! Here’s the schedule for our October Garment Sewing Group meetings:
Saturday, Oct. 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul, 10:30 am
Wednesday, Oct. 13, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, 211 Broadway Ave. S., Rochester, 10:30 am-Please email/text if you will be attending so we have an idea for numbers attending. Carpooling requests/offers can be sent to materialgirlsewing@gmail.com
Thursday, Oct. 14, First Sewing, Bloomington-Is your stash weighing heavy on your shoulders? Keeping you from buying new fabric? Need “new to you” fabric? We’re going to try some fabric swapping at the Thursday meetings. Bring fabric and/or take some home!
A little sewing humor from the New Yorker-thanks Rosemary!!
Our last meeting of July’s Garment Sewing Group is this Wednesday, July 14th, 10:30 am at Lakes Makerie. This is our “On the Go” version-just for fun.
Until then, here is some inspiration from our Thursday and Saturday meetings-
A new generation of superheroes-thanks to Grandma!Rina just finished Fashion Design classes at Minneapolis College-she’ll be at Mpls. Fashion Week in September!Here’s the garment on her model-Fajita Skirt from LJ DesignsRoxy Blouse from StyleArcVintage patterns
Our mixed up month of meetings starts at First Sewing in Bloomington tomorrow, Thursday, July 8th at 10:30.
No need to register, just come. Maybe we’ll have lunch and then there’s Sew Social from 1-4 pm. Bring your project 🙂
On Saturday, July 10th, we’ll be at Treadle Yard Goods for the Saturday version. We had a class at the store today and Roberta was just opening a large bundle of fabric…
We’ll finish our monthly meetings at Lakes Makerie with “Garment Sewing Group on the Go” on Wednesday, July 14th, also at 10:30 am. No registration necessary but we plan to go to lunch at Heather’s after and will need numbers for reservations.
Meeting new people is one thing you might not consider when you sign up for a class but Mary brought two aprons she make for Jennifer, who is a kindergarten teacher-just because we talked about it in class!
Make sure you meet some new people and learn some new sewing skills at our classes this summer! More information about each is found in menu bars at top of webpage-or call/text/email 🙂
July-August 2021 Classes
Classes at Treadle Yard Goods-register at treadleyardgoods.com
Pick a Pattern and Make It~we’ll help with any step in the process-choosing patterns to zippers and more. Wednesdays, July 7 and 21, 10-1 pm (also at Lakes Makerie Aug. 18 and 25)
PDF Patterns-Exploring, Ordering and Printing~choosing, ordering and printing. Wednesday, July 7, 2-3 pm (also at First Sewing Aug. 5)
Garment Sewing Group, Saturday, July 10th, 10:30 am We are changing to Wednesdays instead of Tuesdays-July 14 is kids’ camp at Treadle so we will try a Garment Sewing Group on the Go and meet at Lakes Makerie for our Wednesday meeting-this is NOT a permanent location change, just an exploration of resources 🙂 No need to register for this class-just come! First time free! (Also at First Sewing July 8)
Cover Stitch or Catch Up Sergery~tricks and techniques for coverstitch or serger (catch up only, please, not beginner). Wednesday, July 21, 2-3 pm (also at First Sewing Aug. 5)
Basic & Beyond Sergery In a Day!~Overcome the mystery 🙂 Wednesdays, August 4, 18, 25, 10-4 pm (also at Lakes Makerie Aug. 5, 19, 26)
Classes at Lakes Makerie-register at materialgirlsewing.com
Garment Sewing Group On the Go!~monthly meeting featuring garments, pattern modification and review, and the latest news in the sewing world. Wednesday, July 14, 10:30 am-no need to register-just come! First time free-(also at First Sewing July 8 or Treadle July 10)
Basic & Beyond Sergery~Overcome the mystery 🙂 Thursdays, August 5, 19, 26, 10-12 pm (Also offered at Treadle, Aug. 4)
Pick a Pattern and Make It~we’ll help with any step in the process-choosing patterns to zippers and more. Tuesdays, August 18 and 25, 9:30-12:30 pm (Also offered at Treadle July 7 and 21)
Classes at First Sewing-register at materialgirlsewing.com
Garment Sewing Group~monthly meeting featuring garments, pattern modification and review, and the latest news in the sewing world. Thursday, July 8, 10:30 am-no need to register-just come! First time free-(also at Treadle July 10 and Lakes Makerie July 14)
Sew Social~guided sewing and group fun! Thursdays, 1-4 pm, July 8, 15, 22, August 12, 19, 26
Coming Back to Sewing or Garment Sewing Need to Know~Garment sewing for the first time or getting back into it-we can help! Lecture only, no sewing. Thursdays, July 15 and 22, 10-12 pm
Cover Stitch or Catch Up Sergery~tricks and techniques for coverstitch or serger (catch up only, please, not beginner) Thursday, August 5, 1-2 pm (also at Treadle July 21)
PDF Patterns-All You Need to Know~choosing, ordering and printing-hands-on. Thursday, August 5, 2:30-3:30 pm (also at Treadle July 7)
Not what it started out as-but definitely wearable!
OK, buckle up and hold on-we’re taking a wild ride this month! Debbie and I are having a hard time keeping it straight so we’ll tell you often so you can stay on track-
First, there will be no Zoom meeting this month. We’ll see if we can make something work that is a recorded or live version-fingers crossed.
Second, we’re meeting at First Sewing on Thursday-they have been so good to us and have plenty of space and it’s easy access from most of metro area.
Third, we are changing our Tuesday meeting day to Wednesday to keep our teaching days to two per week and back to back. Hope this day change works for all-
Fourth, Treadle was having kids’ camp on our 2nd Wednesday so we thought we’d try “Garment Sewing Group on the Go”. Lakes Makerie opens at noon so the store has room for us. Sarah has been in business for several years now, carries indie patterns, great fabric and is easy to get to. Join us for lunch afterward at Heather’s nearby.
In a nutshell-
Thursday, July 8th, 10:30 am IN PERSON
At First Sewing, 7985 Southtown Center, Bloomington
Saturday, July 10, 10:30 am IN PERSON
At Treadle Yard Goods, 1338 Grand Ave., St. Paul
Wednesday (yes-a permanent day change), July 14, 10:30 am IN PERSON
At Lakes Makerie, 5257 Chicago Av. South, Minneapolis (NE corner of 53rd and Chicago—easy on street parking, promise 🙂
We’re back in person. It seems sudden and wonderful and hard to remember what we’re supposed to do!
Thanks to everyone who attended-both in person and on Zoom. It was so good to see real faces again! See you in July-
Kristin’s Garments
Crinkled Linen Kimono
Burda 6244
Washed linen
1. Wanted a lightweight jacket in this crinkly, lovely colored linen. Listened to Linda Lee on YouTube-https://youtu.be/lEzd3WhK91— and decided to use a kimono pattern to minimize the challenges of working with the crinkle fabric.
2. Stabilized back neck, shoulders, sleeve cap and interfaced sleeve band and neckband.
3. I was able to use differential feed to finish edges of hem and then turn up and coverstitch with differential feed also.
4. I regret coverstitching the neckband as it waved a bit but guessing a second washing (I washed after construction to see what happens) and I won’t even be able to tell.
5. Garment is 4” shorter than pattern-ran out of fabric but also like it this length.
6. Shortened sleeves and added band for a more finished look than pattern.
Plum Tee
Classic Tee by Love Notions
Cotton Interlock without much spandex if at all/heavier knit
1. Made to pattern except for increasing hips one size. Love the flexibility of this pattern and the range of sizes. Great basic!!
Straight Leg Cropped Pant
Free Range Slacks by Sew House Seven
Linen
1. Made to pattern according to measurements. It’s a high waisted pant with roomy legs but a comfortable/close fit at hips.
2. Side strip gives a break up line for both front and side view.
3. Facing at waistband is nice for reducing bulk-I used rayon to further reduce bulk.
4. Omitted side pockets but put in one back pocket for cell phone. Fun inseam application.
Plum Tunic
Terra Tunic by Love Notions
Cotton interlock without much spandex if at all/heavier knit
1. Made the scoop version-will make it more crew next time-just personal preference.
2. Fabric made for a looser fit.
3. Mitered the corners on side seams as opposed to square fold in directions. Deep 2+’’ hem.
4. Length is to pattern. Made Large through shoulders and went to XL at hip.
Sailor Tunic
Terra Tunic by Love Notions-version 2
Cotton French terry-more cotton in stripe than solid
1. Made the boatneck version-facing, interfaced and all. Love it. Fits very nicely.
2. Wish I could say that for the rest of the top!! The plum tunic above was saggy baggy so I cut may pattern down to a medium at the shoulders and large at hips. Evidently I didn’t check amount of stretch. Still love it but will gift to daughter 🙂
Dandelion Green Tee
Melrose Top by Itch to Stitch
Rayon challis
1. One more of these in a great print. Fabric has been in stash. Got the lower band wide enough this time. Fixed the last one by opening up side seam bands and making vent.
2. This class is still available June 24 and July 1, 1-3 pm at First Sewing, Bloomington.
Debbie’s Garments:
Poppy Day Brightener Dress
Very Easy Vogue 8764
Yarn Dyed Cotton Shirting
1. Did my standard petite adjustments and narrow shoulder and rounded back changes.
2. I changed the V neck opening to a scoop and did not line the dress as pattern directs.
3. I did a serged bias edge for neckline and placed the zipper one inch lower than neck edge.
4. To adjust for fit and construction techniques I prefer I changed the order of construction.
5. The pattern is one I have been wanting to try for awhile and I am generally pleased with it, except for the large scoop neckline.
Orange Gingham Ruffle Sleeve Blouse
Amy Butler Liverpool Blouse Pattern
1. This is a favorite blouse pattern. I haven’t used it for awhile and found I needed to do some new fitting adjustments for lots of reasons! They include petiting between bust and shoulder, narrow shoulder adjustment
2. I also hacked the pattern a bit to copy a RTW look by shortening the hem and changing to a shirt tail style, and eliminating the cuff and adding a band and ruffle to the sleeve.
3. I did add interfacing to collar and placket because the gingham is light weight.
4. The designer of the pattern is a quilter so I did change some construction techniques that I prefer.
Coral Blazer
Metra Blazer with shawl collar by Love Notions
100% poly Ponte
1. I did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust and shortened front, back and sleeve length by 2 inches.
2. I love the shawl collar and the faux welt pocket. Great designer details and very good sewing instructions.
3. The fabric sewed up beautifully using my seger but not the sewing machine. Therefore I needed to adjust some sewing techniques and use steam a seam on the hems.
4. I usually line the sleeves of an unlined jacket but due to the slippery feel of the fabric and the fact that it is a knit, lining the sleeves was not necessary.
5. It’s a wearable muslin that I will make again.
July Garment Sewing Group-Stay tuned for changes may happen 🙂
Thursday, July 8, 10:30, Zoom
Saturday, July 10, 10:30
Tuesday, July 13, 10:30 we may change to Wednesdays
Woohoo! In person classes are finally (well, almost) here! All First Sewing classes are in person. Treadle classes will be via Zoom for May and hopefully in store in June as long as the Covid trend continues as it is.
To register for First Sewing classes, click on the menu bar “Classes at First Sewing“.
To register for Treadle classes, go to the store or call 651-698-9690.
Contact us for more questions-more information about the classes can be found in the class listings on our website and Treadle’s.
All Classes May-April
Post Sergery: A Knit Tee for Me!
You made a no-stress tee for a child in Basic Sergery. Now it’s time to tackle a tee that you will actually wear! We’ll supply the Terra Tunic pattern from Itch to Stitch; it has a variety of necklines and silhouettes to keep you serging all summer long. We’ll cover techniques for measuring your body to choose a pattern size, fit issues, neckband application, hems, plus learn hands-on how to order and work with a large format printing of a PDF pattern.
You don’t have to be a Basic & Beyond graduate but you do need to know how to get a 4 thread stitch on your serger 🙂
Thursday, May 20 and 27, 1-3 pm at First Sewing-in store
Wednesdays, June 2 and 9, 10-12 pm at Treadle-in store
Basic & Beyond Sergery
Do you have a serger you don’t know how to use? Are you a little confused about threading? Take the fear out of serging and get comfortable with what could become your favorite sewing tool. Sessions cover machine parts, threading, rolled hem, flatlock, techniques, serging a basic tee and more.
A child sized, cut out tee will be provided to practice your new skills. Construction techniques will be emphasized.
Thursdays, May 20, 27, June 3, 10-12 pm at First Sewing-in store
Thursdays, June 17, 24, July 1, 10-12 pm at First Sewing-in store
Tuesdays, May 18, 25, June 8, 1-3 pm via Zoom-register with Treadle
Wednesdays, June 16, 23, 30, 10-12 pm at Treadle-in person at Treadle
Post Sergery: Woven Top
Make the Melrose Top by Itch to Stitch (pattern provided) and serge/sew an easy to wear summer top. We’ll cover techniques for bias neck binding, French seams, and band application, plus learn hands-on how to order and work with a large format printing of a PDF pattern.
Tuesdays, May 18 and 25, 10-12 pm via Zoom-register with Treadle
Thursdays, June 24, July 1, 1-3 pm at First Sewing-in store
Jalie Eleonore Pull-on Pant
A breeze to sew and wear, skinny jeans are a wardrobe staple. Make yours from stretch denim/twill or ponte knit and the Jalie Eleonore pattern. Without a zipper, the techniques are pretty easy!
This is just the best pattern for crotch fit, close to thigh, close to ready to wear, that we can find!! (Humble opinion, of course 🙂 Most people need to make only a few tweaks.
Wednesdays, June 2, 9, 16, 1-3 pm at Treadle-in store
Collar Techniques
In this hands-on class we will go step by step through the techniques for a wrapped collar, one seam collar, and collar-into-stand methods of construction. You may want to have a shirt cut out or have your pattern handy at class so you can adapt your pattern for these great techniques.
Thursday, June 3, 1-3 pm at First Sewing-in store
Sew Social
Cutting out patterns on the floor? Got questions about pattern directions? Bring your project or sewing goals and spread out in our spacious classroom. We will help you choose pattern, fabric, decipher pattern directions, fit-whatever you need. And meet other sewists that share your passion! Come as often as you can and sew what you want-
Thursdays, June 10, 17, 1-4 pm First Sewing-in store
Sew for Yourself-What You Need to Know
Garment sewing for the first time or getting back into it-we’ll outline the things that will make the adventure a bit less hazardous and more satisfying. Garment sewing isn’t for the faint of heart but seen as a pursuit rather than a pass/fail event and armed with what we’ve learned over the years, you will fall in love with the craft and art of sewing.
Choosing your size, indie patterns, Pdf printing, knits and new fabrics, fit issues and techniques are some of the topics we’ll cover.
Wednesdays, June 23 and 30, 1-3 pm at Treadle-in store