Last Month’s (July) Garment Sewing Group

***One more GSG meeting in August-Wednesday, Aug. 21 at Lakes Makerie!!

Debbie and Kristin’s garments:

July 2024

Garment Sewing Group

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Bernina Inspiration Magazine Pattern/Cotton stretch woven for jacket-Art Gallery rayon for lining-bamboo ribbing for bands

1. The fit – I shortened length between shoulders and bust and also between waist and hip. Unfortunately I neglected to shorten the the neckband and as a result it was too long for neck edge. I didn’t figure that out until almost too late. Just one reason I am not pleased with this make.

2. The pattern-the directions are few and too often vague. Many places on the pattern pieces should have a notch to match pieces together. For example, the front and back of sleeve armhole. There is no mention of interfacing center fronts for zipper.

3. The construction-the serger is often used in directions-definitely a plus. The zipper is inserted last and the lining is bagged. The lining at zipper needs to be slip stitched. I think you could leave an opening in one side seam, insert zipper in main fabric and lining and then sew up opening in side seam.

4. The bottom band goes around the entire jacket. I would have liked to have a main fabric piece on both sides of zipper. Sewing the zipper to the ribbing wasn’t pleasant.

5. Finding ribbing and zipper to go with jacket was difficult. If the jacket front was up closer to neck I may have found a better length of zipper. Having too long of a zipper generally doesn’t look the greatest In my opinion.

6. I wasn’t successful finding the correct zipper to make the jacket reversible.

7. This was an okay make – if there is a next time I would pay attention to what I listed above and make changes for a more successful project.

* Tee from ribbing is a TNT pattern that I use often. I learned the hard way that I needed to go down a size or two due to negative ease.

Lillie Bishop Sleeve Blouse/Mocha Patterns-Navy/tan cotton batik

1. Fit – Did my standard petiting for length. No issues there.

2. The pattern – There are two back designs. One has a yoke and pleats, the other is a full back. The directions are clear and concise and the construction is all done by machine – no slip stitching. I feel the pattern runs small in size, especially in hip area.

3. For this make I “faced” the yoke and used the burrito roll for construction.

4. I evened out the front and back hems and did a narrow hem rather than a faced hem.

5. The width of the cuff for the sleeve was much narrower than pattern shows so I added 3/4 inch in width to cuff pattern – much easier to work with.

6. I liked this pattern so I made it again!

Second Lillie Bishop Sleeve Blouse/Mocha Patterns-Eyelet for main fabric-cotton poplin for front and back lining

1. For this make I lined the front and full back. I thought a facing for the neckline would be too heavy so instead I used a serged bias strip for the v-neck.

2. The main fabric and lining are stitched together at side seams and also at the 5/8 inch hem.

3. The sleeves are not lined. I used the selvage edge of the lining for the cuffs.

4. A fun make that seems trendy but not too frilly!

Kristin’s Garments:

Simplicity 1358-Cotton jersey

1. Wanted a sleep tank and this pattern has a center front seam (and back too) so it made the vee very easy.

2. Watched a video from Closet Core about an armhole binding that mimics my Eddie Bauer tank. They used a 5/8” seam allowance for the binding but that seemed too wide so I tried 3/8”. Applied arm hole band, single layer, right sides together, wrapped binding around seam allowance and cover stitched and trimmed excess. I like the look.

True Bias Patterns-French terry and activewear knit

1. French terry version-used fold over elastic for pocket band.

2. Omitted ankle band on activewear version.

3. Put pleats in activewear version. Rise needs to be higher or elastic looser (and wear them lower 🙂

Lillie Blouse/Mocha Patterns-plaid linen

1. Just had to try another puff sleeve pattern and then I realized how close it was to Burda 6146 that I made previously. The Mocha pattern doesn’t have a bust dart-Burda does. Mocha has a back yoke option. I was going to do the yoke but started cutting the regular back so went with it!

2. Compared front and back armhole and they were equal plus the back neck seemed low so I cut 1/2” from front shoulders and did nothing to back. I also went down a size for the sleeve to accommodate the change. It’s a big sleeve so should be no problem.

3. Very happy with the top. Leveled the hem and sleeve cuffs are to pattern and serged to sleeve after sewing the side/underarm seam.

*Please Note – GSG Dates will not be the second week of the month in August.

August Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, August, 15, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, August 17, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, August 21, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

February Makes

We’ve had a great start to our February meetings! Last chance is tomorrow at Lakes Makerie-10:30 am. Hope to see you—

Sewing Workshop Icon Vest
Self drafted motorcycle pants in Cordura-300 denier weight
Love Notions La Bella Donna-knit
Cotton knit dress from KwikSew Sewing for Children book
Simplicity 9272 knit jackets/Blouse-Zen from Now & Zen Sewing Workshop
Back pleat detail from Zen Shirt
Marley Shirt/StyleArc in wool challis
Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven in sweater knit
Toaster Sweater (other version) in short sleeves with Brussels Skirt/Loes Hinse with the perfect boots to boot!!
Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop in lightweight Japanese cotton
Vintage Board Shirt in Pendleton wool
Florence Shirt/Sewing Workshop back detail
Simplicity 9825 and 9471 mashup in brushed cotton
Final version of vintage and self drafted vest
One jacket became another-based on Vogue 8676
Back view
Burda 6322 in japanese cotton
Clare Coat/Closet Core in wool
Day brightener lining!!

What We’ve Seen So Far…

And there’s one more meeting, Wednesday, Nov. 15, 10:30, at Lakes Makerie. Hope you can make it!!!

Vogue 1899
Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater and Renee Pant/Jalie
Willow Wrap Dress and Top/Love Notions
Sew Different Cocoon Jacket
Teddy Teen Jacket/StyleArc
What happens when you let friends talk you into Barbie Halloween costume
Rock on, Western Barbie!!
Ballad Blouse/Love Notions in a knit
KwikSew Men’s Shirt
Japonesque Top/Sewing Workshop
McCalls 8122
Butterick 6328
McCalls 8067
New Look 6585 Coats, McCalls 8070 Sweatshirt
Butterick 5891
Sew Liberated Studio Tunic
Love Notions Samson Sweatshirt and Burda 5941 Jacket
Los Gatos Vest
Jalie Renee Pant on granddaughter
Cashmerette Alton Top
Fillmore Duster Sewing Workshop
Itch to Stitch Castillo Cardigan
Thread Theory Jutland Pant
Simplicity 8982
Wiksten Shift Dress and handwoven scarf
Cashmerette Stanmore

Last of April Photos

This is the Lakes Makerie owner’s daughter in Burnside Bibs from Sew House Seven. Several of us bit hard and bought the pattern (I have the fabric in my stash-still some in the store when we were there. We left a few patterns at the store for you to buy or it is now on sale and they have some fun free extensions for the pattern. Hmmm…might have to get busy 🙂

Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs
Metra Blazer/Love Notions in knit
Self drafted pattern using scraps
#2 same as above
Quinn Pant/Merchant & Mills
Fun back detail on Quinn Pant/Merchant & Mills
Mini Marcel/Chalk and Notch
Simplicity 1318
Ashton/Helen’s Closet
Vogue 1277/multiple fabrics and stitching
McCalls 7061
OOP KwikSew with self drafted cuff
Helen’s Closet Moss Jacket
Fringe Dress/Chalk and Notch (there’s a mini version also)
Trio Shirt/Sewing Workshop and Burda 7400 pant
Great warm weather top/can’t remember pattern #
Stanton Tee/Cashmerette
Blanca Flight Suit/Closet Core
In case you need a new tool! Rave reviews!

Last of January Photos

I hope you are in the sunshine somewhere-it’s beautiful!! Speaking of beautiful-here are the remaining sew and tell pics. Another great month of sewing!

Lisette 6296
Simplicity 9291 Gertie pattern
Shucks, I didn’t write down the wrap sweater pattern! Can anyone help me out?
Sapporo Coat/now Nova Coat from Papercut Patterns
Vogue 1784
OOP coat pattern
Historically correct doll bodice
Daughter/mother duo in The Blouse by Avid Seamstress (daughter) and Estelle Ponte Jacket by Stylearc (mother)
Madden Skirt by Tessuti Patterns
Tremont Jacket/Vest by The Sewing Workshop X 2
Nancy’s Blouse by Silhouette Patterns in rayon batik
McCalls 7874 from two old sweatshirts!
Vogue 8854
Wool Coat-Logan Shacket by Stylearc
Copied ready-to-wear/still making modifications

Happy sewing for February!!

Last Month’s Garment Sewing Group

Looking a little bit like it was a slumber party, here are our October garments and notes.

We’ll be at the Sewing Lounge tomorrow (Wednesday), then First Sewing on Thursday and Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday. See you!?

Debbie’s Garments:

Jalie Dolman Tops #3352, Silk knit

1. A TNT pattern for me. This pattern can be made up in a variety of knits that can be casual or dressy and takes about a yard of 54-60 inch fabric. It’s a win-win.

2. The original pattern has a longer shirt tail hem on back . I made the front and back even in length with a shirt tail hem.

3. Instead of a neckband I did a serged “bias” edge finish to eliminate bulk and give it a more dressy look.

Butterick 5963, Cotton waffle knit

1. I was excited to try this pattern because it seemed relaxed but a step up from an everyday bathrobe. I still feel that way but constructing it is a different story – it is very “putsy” to make and put on! The waffle knit sews as smooth as butter.

2. I made the robe knee length.

3. The front band is connected to a faced neck band that hugs the back neck.

4. The pattern sets in sleeves but I put them in using the flat method.

5. I added the ties for closing the band after the robe was finished so I could get correct placement due to my height-I am short .

Love Notions Tranquil Nightwear, Art Gallery cotton knit
Bottoms: Jalie Jeanne #4016, Art Gallery cotton knit

1. This pattern runs large – next time I will take that in consideration when choosing a size.

2. Instead of neckband I serged a contrast knit strip to neck edge and then folded contrast to wrong side and stitched in the ditch to secure trim.

3. I put a straight hem on the sleeves rather than adding trim at an angle.

Coral Dot PJ Bottoms

1. My go to pattern for a quick and easy make.

2. I made it to pattern but I did change up the waist band by doing an “Eileen Fischer type” waistband. I determine the waist measurement and sew the elastic as a circle. Then the rs of the elastic is serged to rs of pj waist. The elastic is turned to ws and stitched in the ditch at center front and back and side seams.

Kristin’s Garments

New Look 6581 robe-cotton velvet, pantsrayon knit

1. Shortened the waist (tie point) by 1.5” and when I shortened the neck facing accordingly, it was easier to just fold the center front in (and lessen the overlap at CF). This also took out some bulk in the overlap.

2. Cut out a size 16 and graded larger at hips and took 1/4” seams at sides and sleeve seams. Sleeves are narrow and have a high cap but went in nicely. And to be fair, that pattern photo suggests this is to be worn without something underneath.

3. Fabric was wonderful to work with-used triple zigzag to understitch neck edge. Interfaced the back neck facing but just used 3/8” fusible stabilizer for larger part of neck edge.

4. Omitted the hole in side seam and attaching ties so I can try different solutions as I plan to wear tied most of time and the stickiness of fabric will keep flaps in place (I think).

5. Made size 20 which is largest that New Look usually goes. With this stretch rayon, it was a good size. Pant seems wider than pattern photo. Turned down an extra 2” at waist mostly due to stretchiness and weight of fabric.

Butterick 6491 Katherine Tilton, fabric content unknown

1. I couldn’t help myself-this was the pattern I had in my head for this fabric. I have a wedding in Phoenix and didn’t want to blend in-ha!!

2. Because of the lantern shape there was no need to increase at hips! Pretty much made to pattern-sleeves are on the slender side but it is a tunic and not a jacket so that’s OK.

3. Collar was applied with the hot dog technique from my “At Any Angle” shirts last month. The collar is very high but turns over nicely.

4. Interesting selvage edge was used at hems and facing.

5. I have a dress waiting in the wings in case I lose my nerve or the temperature remains high.

Love Notions La Bella Donna, jersey knit

1. Last month’s Willow Tank from Grainline Studio was great to wear under my At Every Angle shirt so I thought rayon would make a great knit option under a top but I wanted a short sleeve without the bulk of seams.

2. Pattern calls for 1.25” neckband optional but more as a wrap. I wanted a bit more strength to hold the stretchy rayon in place so I treated it as a tee shirt neckband. I like the narrowness of it.

3. Took in under arm-I think mostly because of the rayon knit.

November 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, November 9, 10:30, Sewing Lounge

Thursday, November 10, 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, November 12, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

One More April Meeting

It’s tomorrow (Thursday, April 14) at First Sewing, Bloomington and there’s going to be ALOT of fabric to swap!!!! Please come and take some. Somebody was moving… There will be some diamonds and some duds but it’s all free and going to Goodwill by 4 pm.

There will also be great sewing inspiration! Here’s what we saw at the Sewing Lounge Wednesday. There were 27 people and we stood on a chair so all could see-but we had a great time 🙂 Thanks for keeping on keeping on.

Spring cotton knit pj’s-Madison Top and Joggers-Sewing Workshop
Flynn Jacket-In the Folds and Peplum Top-Peppermint Magazine
Perfectly matched pockets-Simplicity 9479
OOP Marcy Tilton-still a winner!
Blanca Flight Suit X 2-Closet Core Patterns
Nova Sweatshirt-Sinclair Patterns
Tabor Vee-Sew House Seven and another Madison Jogger-Sewing Workshop
Sterling Jacket-Sewing Workshop
Simplicity 9229
Tallinn Sweater-Hey June
Mary Poppins Bag

Fabric Swap, Anyone?

Our last October meeting is tomorrow (Thursday) at First Sewing and we’re going to try a fabric swap.

GOT FABRIC? WANT FABRIC? Bring it to the Garment Sewing Group meeting at 10:30 am. We’re not going to charge money or anything, leave your fabric or take it back home-patterns, notions, anything sewing related.

Here are photos from Saturday (Treadle) and Wednesday (Ginny’s)-

Last Month’s Club Photos

Here are the photos from last month’s Club, just in case you didn’t make it 🙂

Scroll to the bottom for the dates for December-starting this coming Tuesday!

Fashion Sewing Club-November 2019

Debbie’s Garments:

Navy/Gray Stripe Tunic

Butterick 6247, View C

Poly Blend Knit Jersey

1. Shortened pattern between shoulder and bust, waist and hip.

2. Raised front neckline 2 inches and removed 2 inches of width from cowl neck piece.

3. I did not construct long sleeve and short sleeve as one as pattern directs.

4. The pattern is easy, quick and fun to make. One could easily lengthen for dress.

Navy Cardi Sweater

Simplicity 8377

Cotton/Jersey with spandex

1. Pattern calls for facing along neck edge and center front. If I use this pattern again I would use a neckband rather than facing. The facing construction was difficult  due to the nature of the fabric.

2. Used coverstitch to finish facing and hems.

Navy/Gray Knit Coatigan

Alina Sewing Design Co., Fulton Sweater Blazer

100% wool Double knit; Cotton jersey for facings.

*Pattern description is a sweater blazer but I feel my fabric choice makes it more coatish than sweater.

1. Shortened for petite between shoulder and bust, waist and hips and  at hem for knee length.

2. Eliminated pockets, did not interface.

3. The pattern goes together fairly well but it is important to follow collar instructions carefully. The directions for facings at hem are a bit confusing. Also not really necessary for center back seaming since there is no shaping.

Trio of Tees:

Navy Dot- Viscose Knit, McCalls 6964

Japanese Navy Flora, Viscose Lycra, Vogue 9057, View A.  Raised back neckline 1 inch.

Art Fair Overlay Tee, Poly and Cotton jersey, McCalls 7247, view C adapted.

Kristin’s Garments:

Coatigan

Fulton Sweater-Alina Sewing/Design Co.

Ponte knits

1. Instructions clearly urge you to a stable knit so it looks coatish as Debbie said.

2. Left some edges raw to deal with bulkiness of seams.

3. Good pattern and instructions.

Striped Cardi

Simplicity 8992

Wool sweater knit

1. Wanted a close fitting sweater to go over dress. It is!

2. Nice shaping at neckline.

Patchwork Shirt Dress

Sewaholic Granville Blouse

Patchwork cotton/Liberty of London accents

1. Extended hem to make into dress. Chose this pattern for a more shaped silhouette.

2. Loved the Liberty collar and placket. Bulk of patchwork would have been difficult to work around.

Floral Cardigan

NewLook 6735

Sweater knit

1. Great pattern!! Fantastic instructions for a basic garment.

2. On the looser side of fit (sleeves especially) but still a good fit garment for comparison.

3. Adjust as needed for your purposes.

December 2019 Fashion Sewing Club

Tuesday, December 10, Treadle Yard Goods, 10:30

Thursday, December 12, SR Harris, Burnsville, 10:30

Thursday, December 12, First Sewing, Bloomington, 6:30

Saturday, December 14, Treadle Yard Goods, 10:30

Tuesday’s Triumph’s and Trials

All sewing is a great adventure-a garment that you will wear is merely a lucky byproduct of that adventure 🙂

With that in mind, here are some November sewing adventures-there’s still more to come from Thursday’s (11/14) meetings- 10:30 am at SR Harris, Burnsville 6:30 pm at First Sewing, Bloomington

This was the triumph-Wiksten Harem pants-or is the smile because she’s going to be a grandma??
And this was her trial-maybe no interfacing in the neck?
Japanese apron and Light and Shadows/Cutting Line Designs in wool
Very much Honorable Mention for her unmentionables
Butterick 6492 and 6634
Love the print on print!
Cutting Line blouse and Japanese scarf
She couldn’t go to class with just any old pincushion 🙂