Wednesday, Oct. 9 at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester (let me know if you want to carpool)
Thursday, Oct. 10 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley (and fabric swap!)
Saturday, Oct. 12 at Lakes Makerie (beginning serger class offered at 1 pm following GSG)
And then Frocktails!!!! Thanks go to organizers Hannah, Madee and Elin!! Food, beverages, venue, decorations, mixers, raffle…awesome!
I’m almost positive you can see that YOU fit in to this group-make sure you are there next year!!
Fearless leaders at raffle table-Hannah, Madee, attendee, Elin, l-rWaiting for raffle numbers to be called-many double winners!Hannah in her ombré dressKatie Knoblach look alike!!Gorgeous jacket and self drafted bias dress Picture quality needs help but you can tell what people wore/sewedThis is her seventh Jasika/Closet Core jacket!! She rocked it!Made for an Indian wedding-from Sewing LoungeThe beautiful Cosplay contingentSelf drafted-very runway worthyMuch fun in an Elodie/Closet CoreAll sewists were represented!!My new friend from Rochester in her plant dyed dress
1. Fitting – shortened between shoulder and bust and 3 more inches proportionally from length on front, back and sleeves. I also narrowed the width of the collar one inch.
2. I needed to shorten the jacket so much that the pocket placement was altered too much so I eliminated them.
3. The thickness of the fabric, intersecting of seams, dark color and herringbone design made topstitching a challenge. I used strong topstitching thread and tried a walking presser foot but found my standard foot to work the best.
4. I could not find the correct size of zipper – so once again I needed to shorten the zipper at neckline – bummer!
5. I like the jacket but would not make it again.
Simplicity 9715, View B in cotton basket weave
1. I named this blouse switch-a-roo because the end result doesn’t look like what is pictured on the pattern envelope!
2. I was drawn to this pattern because of the collar. It appears to be what I thought was a Revere collar. Doing some research I found a camp shirt collar with notches and a wing collar labeled as Revere collars. Oh well – no matter the name, I like how the collar on this pattern is constructed with the grown on facing and attached collar. I feel it lays better than the one piece collar I have used in the past.
3. The pattern is described as over sized and it certainly is – I went down 2 sizes.
4. View B is too short. No where in the pattern is the term cropped used.
5. To add more length I added a bias strip along the hem with the small amount of leftover fabric I had.
6. The edge of the cuffs were rounded – I squared them off. Once constructed and attached to the sleeve they felt and looked too bulky. I cut off the cuffs and added a bias strip cuff to the sleeve hems.
7. Many changes were made to this pattern-thus the name switch-a-roo. I would make it again my way just like Old Blue Eyes!
TNT Kwik Sew 3555
1. I liked the causal style of a RTW blouse and tried to copy the fabric and style . The fabric worked well but I may have made the blouse too short – again!
2. I eliminated the pocket but added contrast with buttons and bias tape added to button and cuff placket.
3. A fun fall make.
Olive Jeans -Jalie Eleanore , TNT pattern that I have made several times.
Kristin’s Garments:
Arbutus Robe Helen’s Closet/corduroy and Liberty of London
1. This is clearly advertised as a unisex pattern which usually makes me think the pattern will tend toward the male body proportions. After making the pattern twice now, that is not true.
2. Pattern directions and drafting are great. Other than the challenge of sewing on heavier wale corduroy, the sew went well. Collar seam is finished with Hong Kong finish and Liberty of London.
3. The eye opening came when I tried the robe on my husband-shawl collar and sleeves too short, waist and pocket placement too high. I had already gotten rid of the A-line of the side seams.
4. Bottom line: I like the robe for me but it doesn’t fit a man and there were no allusions to this in pattern directions. If only I had seen the robe on the body of the first receiver!!
One Pattern Three Ways
Vogue 9347 to pattern with shortened collar and cuffs
1. Pretty much to pattern in linen-other than the collar being half the height of the pattern, it is made to pattern. The front neck is rather low, the overlap at center front is 3” to accommodate large buttons. I think the combination of the low neck and overlap give the collar an asymmetric drape.
Vogue 9347-RTW Copy in window pane
1. Raised the neck all around to nothing at the back
2. Straightened and shortened the short sleeve
3. Used the pattern piece for sleeve detail but pleated to achieve the look and then released pleats at elbow
4. Omitted collar and made the front facing sewn on and ended at center front
5. Fabric was a joy to work with-so many ways to highlight the window pane effect and it was on grain so very easy to match!!
Vogue 9347-RTW Copy in gauze
1. Used the pattern pieces as above but placed center front on fold
2. Gathered the sleeve piece at wrist and finished with a band
3. Finished neck with bias strip
Places to go-people to see:
Frocktails! A great reason to dress/sew your best and see and be seen 🙂
Saturday, October 5, 6-10 pm, Fulton Brewery, 414 N. 6th Ave., Mpls, $125 use materialgirls10 for discount
Road Trip to Kansas City/Topeka-October 28-31
Get out of town and visit Asiatica (an amazing company that upcycles vintage kimono) and The Sewing Workshop/Linda Lee. We’ll schedule the visits and let you know hotels, etc. You will need to organize your carpool or fit in with another. Not a handholding/we’ll take care of all the details trip-more of an “I’m going, would you like to go at the same time? This is where I’m staying and where I’ll stop.”
October Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, October 9, 10:30, Ginny’s, Rochester
Thursday, October 10, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
It doesn’t end!! So glad to be part of such an inspiring group!
Fearless leader, Ginny, in Sandra Betzina Vogue 1494Mother of the Bride DressBurda 6914Fringe Dress Chalk and NotchZakopane Top Itch to StitchMom McMonigal-Made JacketMom McMonigal in McCalls 7360Simplicity 8059One more McMonigal in New Look 6667–Thanks all!!Butterick ??Stylearc MontanaTilly and the Buttons NellLiesl & Co Melville Cardigan and VestItch to Stitch Paro CardiganButterick 6874Cashmerette Upton Multi Pack Work in Progress!
Thursday we’ll be at Creative Sewing and Saturday at Ginny’s in Rochester (let me know if you want to carpool-construction is all done on 52!!)
Red Fest Costume-Colette Dress by Allis Patterns, Angel Belle Sleeves by Firefly Path, purchased corsetButterick 5881 in linenLou Box Dress by Sew DIYPlaza Pant by Sewing WorkshopEsme Top by StyleArcInventor’s Shirt by Sewing WorkshopJacket Simplicity 1688 and dress Vogue 9236
Silhouette Patterns Hugo Cardigan in rayon batikVintage Vogue 1800Butterick 6173 Love Notions Cadence TopLiesl & Co Wynwood RobeDeer and Doe Hoya Shirt and Love Notions Tinley SkortFriday Pattern Company Donny Shirt
Love Notions Glissando Pants-hemp denim and Jalie Dolman #3352-french terry and cotton knit
1. I wanted these pants to be a wearable muslin so I did a few length adjustments between hips and knee and knee and hem.
2. I chose to do a zipper fly instead of a button fly. Lifting Pins and Needles and TomKat Stitchery have instruction videos on YouTube that are very helpful explaining this technique.
3. The side seams between the waist and hip are very curvy. If I sew this pattern again I would make an adjustment to straighten out those seams.
4. I was concerned about the contour waist band being too wide but once finished I am pleased at where it sits on my waist.
5. I enjoyed the construction process of this pattern. It was fun to use a contrast fabric for pocket bag and zipper extension and add bias tape to waistband edge.
• Wearing my Jalie TNT pattern – Womens Tops 3352 with French terry for body and cotton jersey for sleeves and band.
McCalls 7360, View A modified-cotton poplin
1. I did my basic petiting techniques regarding fit adjustments.
2. I squared off the neckband edge at center front of collar band and also eliminated the chest pocket.
3. The pattern does have a lined yoke but does not use the burrito method to construct – but I did.
4. I used the black and white stripe for placket trim, cuffs and inside collar band.
5. I need to remember that I prefer collared shirts and full button downs most often!
New Look 6483, View E-rayon
1. This is a TNT pattern for me but this time I tried the couture method of bagging lining to neckband and sleeves.
2. The method works well but I found under stitching the armholes a challenge. It’s always good to try something new.
Kristin’s Garments:
New Look 6340, 6125, 6500
Left to right: New Look 6340, 6125, 6500-linen with cotton lining
Linen with cotton lining
1. Simple, darted, A-line patterns with varying amounts of flare. They are listed above from most flare to least flare.
Kristin’s Garments, cont.
2. Facings come with the patterns but I wanted them lined for ease of wearing in summer.
3. I used the same couture technique as Debbie. Interfacing the stitching line at neck is a good idea. Also topstitching, depending on the weight of fabrics.
1. My favorite pattern in this style is the Willow Tank by Grainline Studio. But the Burda pattern had no bust dart making it a bit quicker to stitch up.
2. I like the two layered option so gave it a try. Using the lining method as above was a bit trickier as the under layer needed to be right side to wrong side of outer layer.
3. In the end, I think the bust dart is worth the time 🙂
Maker’s Atelier The Shirt-various gauze weaves
1. This is the second version I have made of this pattern. I had to use the gauzes from Lakes Makerie and thought this might be the perfect pattern.
2. Some of the lines on pattern pieces disappeared when I projected them and eliminated layers. Hopefully that has been fixed.
3. The website gave instructions for a shirt tail hem so I did that instead of straight across.
Travertine Tank/Closet Core Crew Patterns-cotton interlock and Twig Pant Stylearc-tencel
Cotton interlock
1. Pattern had much negative ease so instead of a size 12 I made a 20. Still not quite enough for hips but good at bust.
2. Armholes were too big so binding had to rein them in! May try again as I like the look.
Twig Pants from Stylearc (see pic above)
1. Diane made these last month so I had to try them as I love my Barry Pants (also from StyleArc but just front and back pieces and a few small darts-narrower than Twig and Bob).
2. Omitted pocket and front fly. Supposed to be flat front but I left the elastic in the front as a reinforcement and I think I like that. The opening is big enough to get over hips.
3. A fun pair of pants! Pattern calls for denim and twill-might be a bit stiff?
September 2024 Garment Sewing Dates:
Wednesday, September 11, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, September 12, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Bernina Inspiration Magazine Pattern/Cotton stretch woven for jacket-Art Gallery rayon for lining-bamboo ribbing for bands
1. The fit – I shortened length between shoulders and bust and also between waist and hip. Unfortunately I neglected to shorten the the neckband and as a result it was too long for neck edge. I didn’t figure that out until almost too late. Just one reason I am not pleased with this make.
2. The pattern-the directions are few and too often vague. Many places on the pattern pieces should have a notch to match pieces together. For example, the front and back of sleeve armhole. There is no mention of interfacing center fronts for zipper.
3. The construction-the serger is often used in directions-definitely a plus. The zipper is inserted last and the lining is bagged. The lining at zipper needs to be slip stitched. I think you could leave an opening in one side seam, insert zipper in main fabric and lining and then sew up opening in side seam.
4. The bottom band goes around the entire jacket. I would have liked to have a main fabric piece on both sides of zipper. Sewing the zipper to the ribbing wasn’t pleasant.
5. Finding ribbing and zipper to go with jacket was difficult. If the jacket front was up closer to neck I may have found a better length of zipper. Having too long of a zipper generally doesn’t look the greatest In my opinion.
6. I wasn’t successful finding the correct zipper to make the jacket reversible.
7. This was an okay make – if there is a next time I would pay attention to what I listed above and make changes for a more successful project.
* Tee from ribbing is a TNT pattern that I use often. I learned the hard way that I needed to go down a size or two due to negative ease.
Lillie Bishop Sleeve Blouse/Mocha Patterns-Navy/tan cotton batik
1. Fit – Did my standard petiting for length. No issues there.
2. The pattern – There are two back designs. One has a yoke and pleats, the other is a full back. The directions are clear and concise and the construction is all done by machine – no slip stitching. I feel the pattern runs small in size, especially in hip area.
3. For this make I “faced” the yoke and used the burrito roll for construction.
4. I evened out the front and back hems and did a narrow hem rather than a faced hem.
5. The width of the cuff for the sleeve was much narrower than pattern shows so I added 3/4 inch in width to cuff pattern – much easier to work with.
6. I liked this pattern so I made it again!
Second Lillie Bishop Sleeve Blouse/Mocha Patterns-Eyelet for main fabric-cotton poplin for front and back lining
1. For this make I lined the front and full back. I thought a facing for the neckline would be too heavy so instead I used a serged bias strip for the v-neck.
2. The main fabric and lining are stitched together at side seams and also at the 5/8 inch hem.
3. The sleeves are not lined. I used the selvage edge of the lining for the cuffs.
4. A fun make that seems trendy but not too frilly!
Kristin’s Garments:
Simplicity 1358-Cotton jersey
1. Wanted a sleep tank and this pattern has a center front seam (and back too) so it made the vee very easy.
2. Watched a video from Closet Core about an armhole binding that mimics my Eddie Bauer tank. They used a 5/8” seam allowance for the binding but that seemed too wide so I tried 3/8”. Applied arm hole band, single layer, right sides together, wrapped binding around seam allowance and cover stitched and trimmed excess. I like the look.
True Bias Patterns-French terry and activewear knit
1. French terry version-used fold over elastic for pocket band.
2. Omitted ankle band on activewear version.
3. Put pleats in activewear version. Rise needs to be higher or elastic looser (and wear them lower 🙂
Lillie Blouse/Mocha Patterns-plaid linen
1. Just had to try another puff sleeve pattern and then I realized how close it was to Burda 6146 that I made previously. The Mocha pattern doesn’t have a bust dart-Burda does. Mocha has a back yoke option. I was going to do the yoke but started cutting the regular back so went with it!
2. Compared front and back armhole and they were equal plus the back neck seemed low so I cut 1/2” from front shoulders and did nothing to back. I also went down a size for the sleeve to accommodate the change. It’s a big sleeve so should be no problem.
3. Very happy with the top. Leveled the hem and sleeve cuffs are to pattern and serged to sleeve after sewing the side/underarm seam.
*Please Note – GSG Dates will not be the second week of the month in August.
August Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, August, 15, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, August 17, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Wednesday, August 21, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
Several calendar conflicts have us meeting later than usual in August:
Thursday, August, 15, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley
Saturday, August 17, 10:30 at The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Wednesday, August 21, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis
We hope your calendar allows you to make it to one or two of them!
AND-it looks like July got away from me and I didn’t get any pictures posted so here they are. If you want any more info on patterns used, send me an email.
These are photos from July meetings, I’ll post more tomorrow-
Vogue 1470Patterns for Pirates LumberjacketSimplicity 9472True Bias Mave SkirtFlowers pounded on fabricNew Look 6431
Material Girl Sewing 