Tomorrow, Thursday, October 6th will be the first of the October Garment Sewing Group meetings. Yes, it is the first Thursday-sorry to move things about but once in a while schedules get messy 🙂
We’ll be at First Sewing and fabric swapping! See you tomorrow!
Saturday we are at Quilter’s Haven in Rosemount-new store to us, new knits, etc., :)) and Wednesday is Ginny’s!!!
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Whirlwind fall, anyone!? Beautiful weather and back to school has made the days fly by and we are looking at October meetings next week! Our Saturday group has turned up the volume and asked us to rotate their meetings so they see all the wonderful stores that the area has to offer too. We’re adding a new store this month-Quilter’s Haven. They carry some great Stoff knits, indie patterns, notions and more!
October 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Thursday, October 6, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, October 8, 10:30, Quilter’s Haven, 2930 146th St., Rosemount
Wednesday, October 12, 10:30, Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester
Debbie’s Garments:
1. This is my second tee from this pattern. I really like the boat neck and wanted to try the bishop sleeves.
2. Did not petite between shoulder and bust but did take in the back neckline with 1/8” darts on pattern piece before cutting fabric.
3. The pattern instructs zigzagging over thread elastic to gather sleeve before adding the cuffs. I found it much easier and a better look using my serger to gather. Placing the differential feed on 2 and the stitch length to 4 is an easy way to gather.
1. Jalie’s bodice pattern creates a lining for the front which can get heavy. The Olympia front bodice has a cut on facing to create the same look as the Jalie and is much lighter – my preference.
2. The front has a upper bodice and lower skirt. The back is one piece.
3. I did raise the center front neckline one inch.
4. Once I determined how to combine the two patterns it was an easy and quick make.
1. I did not need to petite this top but I did cut down the cowl height by 6 inches. Next time I may use one layer of fabric for the cowl.
2. I also added side slits and a ribbed band.
3. I am not sure about the placement of the long cuff. I may be shortening that cuff some day.
1. This is an old pattern and the maker has a quilting background so 1/2” seam allowances!
2. I did petite between shoulder and bust, shortened the hem and sleeve lengths.
3. Again an old pattern so I did some construction changes: increased the hood width to create a band, added side seam pockets, added 2” to center front to create a fold over facing. I bagged the lining – the pattern instructs you to place ws of lining to ws of jacket and then stitch side and under arm sleeves. The lining is caught in the hems as you fold them up to stitch – What???
4. This was a bit of a challenge but it meets a need and I was able to make use of my pattern stash.
Kristin’s Garments:
Looking for a shirt pattern that’s easy fit, a bit out of ordinary, I compared Now and Zen Shirt from Sewing Workshop, Anything But Ordinary and At Every Angle. At Every Angle won because it had the highest sleeve cap, narrow sleeves, less dropped shoulder and higher underarm.
1. The pattern is designed to be cut out in separate pieces-one left front, one right front, etc. so I cut out the XS in the shorter pieces and made to pattern.
2. As is Louise Cutting, all went together well, nice hems, funky collar, narrow sleeves.
3. Perhaps the extra small was a bit over confident-sleeves too short, neck a bit small, body too short, sleeves a bit tight. But I like the look of it (maybe it’s the samurai!)
Necessary Tank
So I made a tank to wear under the shirt-really like the samurai!
1. I love this tank-still need to widen at hip one size but armholes, neckline and bust dart, deep hem nail it as a TNT.
Barry Woven Pant-StyleArc Patterns
1. Same pattern as last month but a warmer version and added 2” to length.
2. Used silky cotton for pocket facing to keep things slimmer. Still love the pants!
Now to try the next size up (small) and use the other pattern pieces!
1. Body gets a big boost-about 4”. Sleeve gets longer but not a lot wider. Quite an improvement. But now it just looks blah-maybe I need to try in a fabric with more drape?
Vanessa Woven Pants-Jalie Patterns
1. Favorite pattern but looking out for a wide leg pant to be a bit more on trend…
1. Have wanted to try this pattern for the collar/neckline. Usual Burda directions-wait, when did you tell me to sew the side seams??
2. Putsy technique for adding the yoke and facing at the same time-wouldn’t want to show the inside version.
3. Fit is great-through shoulders, etc. Could have added more at hip. Not in love yet 🙂
Oh. My. Goodness! Thursday and Saturday were such great meetings-can’t wait to see what tomorrow at Sewing Lounge brings! And Maggy has worked really hard to find chairs and a comfortable arrangement for all of us.
Let’s get to some photos!
We’ll be at First Sewing on Thursday, August 11 at 10:30 for version 2 of GSG and Fabric Swap!
Here are photos from today at Treadle Yard Goods-
August meetings for Garment Sewing Group are as follows:
Wednesday, August 10, 10:30 Treadle Yard Goods
Thursday, August 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Blmgtn., and FABRIC SWAP
Saturday, August 13, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Hope to see you and your end of summer sewing!
July 2022 Garment Sewing Group Photos and Notes
Debbie’s Garments:
I was a little hesitant making this dress due to style vibe and fitting concerns. I read lots of reviews, listened to Brenda and made a muslin. Then I thought go for it and I am glad I did. It is a fun make.
1. I did my petite adjustments between shoulder and bust but not any length!
2. The construction is easy and very clear. I did question the direction of stay stitching the pattern directs. It is just the opposite of the way I was taught.
3. Not fond of the construction technique used for the opening for the tie. Next time I would put in a buttonhole.
I have no idea what pattern the skirt is cut from. I have a traced pattern with no info on it but it is a TNT. The fabric is cotton sateen.
1. The pattern is simple and easy to make however the fabric gave me a little trouble. Thought I was buying a panel but it was sold by yardage. Therefore I really needed to be careful cutting so I could get the print where I wanted it.
2. Again, fabric was scarce so instead of losing fabric to a hem I serged a bias strip around the hem.
3. I put in a side invisible zipper and the waist is shaped with facing, no waistband.
Coral Boatneck Tee/Somerset Tee by Maven patterns (photo above)
1. I did not need any petite adjustments but I did shorten length on front, back and sleeve one inch.
2. I love a boatneck and this is a good one. The directions are clear and concise and produce RTW results.
3. I would decrease the width of the back neckline with small darts on paper pattern before cutting the next make.
4. This was a fun make. I like the variety of sleeves the pattern offers.
1. This is a TNT pattern that I make often. Each time I add or delete design features.
2. I eliminated the back pockets and I tapered the legs about 2 inches from knee to leg hems.
Kristin’s Garments:
1. Front band is cut on as part of front pattern piece and darts help make the turn. Interesting and well thought out construction.
2. Made a size medium which fit perfectly-graded to next size at hips. Sleeves a bit wide for my taste.
3. Did all interfacing as pattern directed. Fun summer jacket to wear tied.
1. Basic raglan robe pattern which can be hard to find. In my stash for some time and still available on the internet. I made a size medium-it’s also a bit A-lined.
2. Misread placement dots for belt but it worked out in the end 🙂
3. Applied neck/front band to wrong side of robe and wrapped seam allowance with bias contrast fabric and love the detail.
4. Linen makes a wonderful robe for hot weather!
Vogue 8906 OOP, View C
1. This is a view from a TNT pattern that I have always wanted to try. Cut on sleeves, no darts and a v-neck with some shaping pleats to boot!
2. Used a 3/8” seam allowance at neck for a closer neck. Did a forward shoulder just because it’s an old Vogue. Had to add a cuff because sleeve was too short. Topstitched facings down.
3. Buttonholes were a struggle but Solvy did the trick!
August Garment Sewing Group Meetings
Wednesday, August 10, 10:30 Treadle Yard Goods
Thursday, August 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, August 13, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
A beautiful summer Saturday and great sewing inspiration!
We’ll be at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis, on Wednesday, July 13 and First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday, July 14 (and FABRIC SWAP). Both start at 10:30 am!
Happy Sewing!!
We’ll be at First Sewing all day, Thursday, June 30 (end of another month!) Serger in the am and Sew Social pm. Still room for YOU!
We’ll be at Lakes Makerie on July 13 for the start of July Garment Sewing Group! See you there——
Our next Basic & Beyond Sergery class starts next Thursday, June 30 at 10 am at First Sewing, 494 and Penn! The class continues July 7 and 21. Go to “Classes at First Sewing” in the menu bar to register.
June Garment Sewing Group:
Debbie’s Garments:
1. This is an unlined jacket so my first step was to draft lining pattern pieces. The sleeves are underlined. Also a dart in the sleeve creates a 2 piece look which I like. It eliminates a lot of bulk.
2. I did petite between shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment but did not shorten length because it is a cropped style.
3. Due to the texture of the main fabric I only interfaced the under collar.
4. Also due to the texture of the fabric I did not top stitch.
5. This pattern is from 2015. It was a fun make and I also decreased my pattern collection.
1. As always I did my petite adjustments but did not shorten the hem length – this is a crop length shirt.
2. The pattern envelope gives yardage for a skirt. There is no skirt in this pattern – maybe a typing error. That should have been my first clue that the pattern had some flaws.
3. The neckband is too short for neck and the directions for collar insertion are poor.
4. The only feature different from my TNT blouse pattern is the “cuff”.
Navy Gingham Pants, Burda 7062, Gingham with Bemberg lining, see photo above
1. This pattern is from 2013 and has been updated in the catalog.
2. I eliminated the side slits and added a lining.
3. This is a TNT for me and it will stay in pattern collection.
Coral “Scraps” Blouse
1. I did my standard petite adjustments and removed 2 inches from the length. I also softened the shirt tail hem and removed length from there as well. The designer is tall!
2. I raised the v-neck 1 inch.
3. I changed construction steps because I wanted to have the neck band on the rs of the blouse. I used the shorten/lengthen line to determine the the length of back top and bottom.
4. I chose this pattern because of the lantern sleeve. I am not fan of v-neck blouses but I thought I would give it a try anyway.
5. It was a fun make even though the construction techniques are kind of putsy and 1/2 seam allowances are used – WHY?!
Kristin’s Garments:
1. Pattern includes lining but didn’t want to lose the stretch of fabric so just used facings.
2. Very large pleat in back was topstitched through all layers-directions had it hanging loose-I wanted a bit more of a “yoke line” to copy garment.
3. Center front overlap was eliminated so no closure. Corners at collar were rounded.
4. This pattern was previously made in fleece. Fits surprisingly well (no forward shoulder needed, bust dart in proper place, sleeve is great.
Brick Summer Pants, Vanessa Fluid Pants/Jalie Patterns, Silk blend fabric? See photo below
1. Added 3” to length-omitted cuff.
2. Darts are extended 2” for a lower seat 🙂
3. Waist band is made into one continuous strip eliminating seams and tie.
4. Great pants pattern-TNT!
1. Made to pattern as the hip area is already wider.
2. Neck binding is supposed to be turned all the way under, I like wrapping the serged edge.
3. Center back seam has waist shaping but the opening isn’t necessary to get blouse on. I just sewed the button on permanently.
4. Several sleeve variations. Great summer woven tee with a dart.
5. Great fit for my body!
Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Green cotton/lycra knit crew neck
1. Shortened length 2”.
2. Both necklines are great depthwise. Vee is quite pointed and the rayon fabric didn’t help. Pattern also includes a scoop neck and all sleeve length variations.
3. Definitely a TNT!
July 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Saturday, July 9, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Wednesday, July 13, 10:30 Lakes Makerie, Mpls
Thursday, July 14, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap 🙂
Squeaking in on the last day of May…for June meeting dates and locations, please scroll to end of post-
Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
1. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the hem length by 2 inches – whoops – it feels a little too short.
2. I did a serged “bias” neck finish instead of turning under neck edge twice and topstitching as pattern directs. I also eliminated the side slit.
3. Fun, easy make that can be casual or dressy, depending on fabric choice.
1. Made my standard petite adjustments as well as shortening hem length.
2. I added a neckband rather than folding neck edge to ws and top stitching. Also added cuffs to again avoid turning hem to inside and topstitching.
3. This is a TNT pattern for me. I like how it fits, there are several looks and it is a great scrap buster.
1. I tried to copy a RTW garment and did fairly well except I wish I would have used very light batting instead of flannel. It is not as soft as RTW garment.
2. Besides my standard petite adjustments I straightened the CF so the fronts meet, not overlap.
3. For construction: stitch side fronts to fronts for main fabric, batting and lining. Follow same procedure for CB seam. Quilt front, back and sleeves using walking foot and 1/2 vertical rows at 3.0 stitch length. Jacket is then serged together.
4. I added a contrast band for CF and hemmed sleeves and bottom with bias strip bands.
5. The RTW version added buttons and buttonholes – I did not.
6. It was a good project to work on during our cold spring but I am done with quilting for a long time now!
1. To redesign the pattern I eliminated the side seam and made the back and wedge one piece allowing for sa and placket folds. Later I added a placket to button edge because my math was incorrect! A two inch length of fabric was pressed wst and serged to rst of shirt back side seam.
2. On the side fronts I added 1 inch plus sa for button hole placket. The placket edges were clean finished, pressed to ws and top stitched.
3. The back hem is longer by one inch.
4. I did make buttonholes but really not necessary.
5. This became more of a chore than I planned on and I realize now I should have just bought the Love Notions pattern!
Kristin’s Garments
1. Quick to sew with raglan sleeves. Bust dart is a plus.
2. As with most popular patterns of this type, the neck is on the larger end of spectrum.
3. I took it in 3/8” along shoulder dart and through sleeve as it seemed a bit low under arms also.
4. Neck band also seemed long but bias binding can stretch when pressed so follow pattern directions and adjust as needed.
1. Eliminated center back seam. Added back darts.
2. Eliminated skirt lining because scuba hung nicely without. Turned under underarms and stitched to make up for lack of lining.
3. Like the fit and the way it went together.
4. Omitted the trim down the side seams as wool knit was thick.
5. Disappointed with fusible interfacing results around decorative neck hole. Glued too well.
6. Hole in front yoke fussy but a fun detail.
1. Made the first version in a medium and that was too small so tried XL and that was much better except bust was big so took shaping out of front bust area.
2. Tried elastic trim for neckline (floral version) and band per pattern (solid version).
3. Lots of options-higher neckline and lower (solid knit was in between), pleated front and plain front, 3 sleeve lengths and a children’s version (separate purchase).
June 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, June 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Thursday, June 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, June 11, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
We have two classes starting this week-
Serge (or Sew) This: Woven Tee: Wed., May 18, 25, June 2, 10:30-12:30, Treadle
Serge (or Sew) This: Core Pattern Tee: Thurs., May 19, 26, June 2, 10-12, First Sewing
Register online at Treadle for Treadle class and Material Girls for First Sewing class. Email materialgirlsewing@gmail.com for questions.
Material Girl Sewing 