June GSG Final

First, highlights from Wednesday’s meeting at Lakes Makerie-

Update Your Day by Cutting Line Designs
Vogue 9010
Free Range Pants by Sew House Seven in linen
New Look 6560 top and self drafted skirt
Multi-sleeve Midi Dress by The Assembly Line
Hand worked collar

Garment Sewing Group

June 2023

Debbie’s Garments:

Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs in Brussels washer linen blend

1. This is a great pattern in that it offers many choices for pockets, bibs and length. Also the construction directions are clear, easy to understand and the illustrations are helpful. Construction goes quickly up until the straps. At this point I took my time and followed directions carefully but also doing my own thing to eliminate some steps I felt were not needed or I had a better way.

2. I shortened the length between knee and hip one inch, the front pocket length one inch, hem length one inch and the crotch length/depth one inch.

3. I did interface the the top of the bib and the side seam zipper areas . I would also interface the pocket facing – the pattern directions do not include interfacing.

4. The directions do tell you to remark notches after finishing raw edges and it gives you 2 methods to do the straps. I found this to be very helpful.

5. I did not topstitch the back waistband. Attaching the belt loops and stitching in the ditch secured the facing just fine.

Jalie Dolman Tee in viscose ponte (picture above with bibs)

1. This is one of my TNT patterns. This time I added a neckband rather than turn under binding and straightened the hem on front and back.

Navy Joggers

Itch to Stitch Nusle Joggers in viscose rayon

1. Shortened length of pants a total of 4 inches between hip and knee and knee and hem.

2. I made the straight leg and no cuffs.

3. The pattern goes together quickly due to excellent directions. I enjoy everything about the Itch to Stitch pattern company.

Somerset Maven Tee in cotton spandex interlock (picture above)

1. Another TNT pattern for me.

2. I did narrow the neckline pattern piece by taking in 1/8 inch tucks on front and back necklines.

3. I chose 3/4 sleeves this time around.

Kristin’s Garments

Summer Bibs

Burnside Bibs by Sew House Seven, Zipper version

1. My linen was very linen-y (a bit unstable, very pressable) so I interfaced wherever they suggested and added interfacing to front pocket facing. Probably should have done the same for back pockets.

2. Cutting out was a process but all part of the pattern. Fun to assemble if a little time consuming. Topstitching was all good. Nice to have Debbie sewing ahead of me so I could ask questions.

3. I managed to do the tube method for turning the straps but used fold method for the ties-faster and easier :))

4. Fit was pretty spot on. They do a good crotch for my body. Looking forward to lots of summer wear!

Lenox Tee by Love Notions, square neck in cotton interlock (in photo above with bibs)

1. Great assembly directions for a square neck. Love the princess seams.

2. The band for the horizontal strip had to be stretched but the longer “around the neck” part did not. I would change that next time and make the long band shorter to bring it in around the neck.

Nona Top by Fibre Mood in cotton voile

1. Fun assembly-a bit like a puzzle but understandable. Not something I’d wear every day but very summery and light.

2. Zipper starts from waist instead of underarm. Well drafted.

Burda 6497 View A in dark blue chambray

1. Added length but kept waist level to pattern. Sized up for hips.

2. Fussy cut the skirt and was able to use less fabric than called for.

3. Fun make, fabric was great to work with.

4. Raised the vee by 3/4” by extending the center seam when I sewed it-didn’t change pattern piece. Vee instructions different than usual but very effective.

5. Omitted the side zip but may go back and put one in.

July Garment Sewing Group Meetings

Saturday, July 8, Ginny’s, Rochester

Wednesday, July 12, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Thursday, July 13, First Sewing, Bloomington

June Inspiration

We are at Lakes Makerie, Wednesday, June 14-last chance for the June meetings-come and see great sewing AND great fabric!!

Here are photos from Sewing Lounge and First Sewing meetings:

Grainline Studio Austin Dress-pattern available at Sewing Lounge
OOP Jean jacket variation
Vogue 1773 in silk
OOP pattern/modern day inspiration
Bog Coat (Ella Ramsey) in Kantha fabric
Wren Blouse by Chalk and Notch
Trio Top by Sewing Workshop
Wiksten Top (discontinued) used to copy
Nature Shirt by Thread + Sprout
Vogue 9112 Marcy Tilton
Vogue 1246 in two different fabrics
Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop used to copy Pinterest inspiration
Detail of previous pic
On hanger-Vogue 1614/wearing Simplicity 9328
Chalk and Notch Fringe Dress
Vogue 1212 Coat in vinyl

June Meetings start Thursday!

Fun classes today (Wednesday) at Lakes Makerie-serger and open studio.

Tomorrow (Thursday) is first June Garment Sewing Group meeting at 10:30-they’ve moved to a new space in Southtown next to Massage Envy.

Saturday’s meeting is at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul.

Wednesday meeting is at Lakes Makerie in Minneapolis.

Fun week-hope to see you!

May Garment Sewing Group Final

A few photos from the Saturday meeting at Quilter’s Haven-

Silhouette Patterns #575 hacked into a biking shirt
Summer dress-McCalls 5668
Simplicity 8061

And Debbie and Kristin’s garments-

Debbie’s Garments:

Shirt Dress

Simplicity 8014, View D, chambray

1. The only fitting adjustment needed was narrow shoulder. Unfortunately I cut the dress length too short – need to wear it with leggings.

2. I added a lining to the back yoke and used the burrito method to construct.

3. This was a fun make. The pattern offers several choices for length, sleeves and bodice. The Chambray fabric was easy to work with.

Itch to Stitch Medellin Top, cotton interlock and Love Notions Duet Trousers, stretch denim

1. IS patterns work well for me generally. I did not do any petite adjustments. Since I eliminated the bottom band I increased the body length pattern pieces by one inch.

2. The directions call for clear elastic for the shirring on side. I found that the gather stitches alone worked well so I did not use the elastic.

3. The pattern instructions are clear and concise and the fabric was great to work with.

Love Notions Duet Trousers, Stretch Denim

1. This is my second try at this pattern. The fabric choice makes a difference in sizing. The stretch denim I used was poor quality and shrunk 4 inches when I washed it. Live and Learn!

2. I eliminated the front pockets due to lack of fabric. I used the curvy waistband pattern piece instead of the straight piece.

3. The pattern can be used for stretch woven and stable knits.

4. I am not thrilled with this make. I will try a stable knit next time and then move on.

Itch to Stitch Galicia Top, cotton poplin
Button back

1. I petited the pattern between shoulder and bust and shortened the length by 2 inches.

2. The pattern has great construction techniques. There is an option for vertical darts which I chose to do. I also shortened the width of the cuff.

3. The pattern is a little out of my comfort zone but I am glad I gave it a try. I think it would be a fun special occasion top.

Kristin’s Garments

Burda 6114 Jacket, fleece and scuba knit and Ravinia Skirt, Love Notions in cotton interlock (version 1)

Jacket, Burda 6114

1. Made size 16/18 at hip. Sizing seemed great.

2. Folded 3/4” out of collar lengthwise. Collar is taller in front, probably would change that in future jackets as it just stands up and doesn’t seem to want to lay in a “collarly” fashion. Didn’t interface.

3. Pockets according to pattern were just a passing thought-instead cut 6×9” rectangles and 3 layers so that anywhere the pocket showed would be my knit print. Pockets went from seam to seam and were topstitched through outer fabric across the top. Very happy with them.

4. Changed up zipper installation-folded collar and hem over zip, stitched and turned right side out. Very important (I think): handbasted from pocket top up and down to ensure all meeting points were happy.

5. Left sleeve hems very deep (sleeves were 2”+ too long) so white wrong side of scuba doesn’t show.

Midi Length Knit SkirtRavinia Skirt/Love NotionsCotton knit

1. Oh, my, how could I have been so blind!! I had traveled down the Instagram/email rabbit hole and saw this pattern which matched a picture I had cut out of a catalog numerous times!! How could I have missed the photos of the test garments?

2. But the skirt was already cut out so sew it I must. It isn’t so bad-I knew it was an a-line skirt and that the waist band had negative ease (5-7”) but I didn’t understand that the waist edge of the skirt also had the same negative ease. I was hoping for a few tucks and pleats as the waistband was stretched to meet the skirt. Nope-I had to stretch the skirt to fit the waistband that I cut out two sizes larger to accommodate the fact that my waist was larger than the pattern measurements (not a problem if the skirt is gathered into the negative ease waistband!)

3. The gathered pocket went in well and to be fair there are some funny puckers in my inspiration picture where gathers go all the way to waist.

4. I added 4” to the calf length of the skirt. A narrow elastic is applied to the top waistband seam for extra security.

5. If I make this again, I will get rid of the A-line and add fabric at waist so it has gathers all around 🙂

6. So I went home Wednesday night and made another skirt, this time using the full 60” width of the fabric as my skirt and applying the pockets and gathering the 60” to the negative ease waistband. Now that’s what I had in mind!!

Ravinia Skirt, Version 1-hem width 100” plus Version 2 (being worn)-gathers at waist and 60” hem width
Pleat Detail Dress and Top/Maker’s Atelier, cotton lawn

1. Made size medium to pattern except for a few construction changes.

2. Seam allowances are 3/8” which makes it a little trickier to serge seam allowances and sew seams but I wanted a nice flat press.

3. Pattern instructions assume you will do things and doesn’t tell you to-understitching facing, finishing facing edges, pleats should have been basted to make pressing easier, etc.

4. There’s a tiny slit in sleeve opening (cuff edge) that may be to allow for more ease but it’s pretty small and not shown on pattern.

Vogue 8616 (OOP) in activewear fleece
Burda 6367 in activewear fleece

1. Both are patterns I’ve made before. The Vogue pattern was quite recent-this time I cut off the folded facing and banded the whole opening. Much better and less fussy than the folded facing.

2. The Burda pattern always feels like home to me-shoulders are a bit dropped but not too much. The whole thing feels like a cozy sweatshirt that wears a bit more like a long sleeve tee.

Wool Sweater

Karine Jalie #4242 in wool knit

1. Had to try this pattern again in something a bit more basic than the other patch work one. Still like it. No changes. Goes together well.

June Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, June 8, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, June 10, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, June 14, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

May Inspiration at First Sewing

Our first meeting at First Sewing after their move-a wonderful light filled space with plenty of tables!

We’re at Quilter’s Haven in Rosemount on Saturday morning (10:30), May 13, for our last May meeting.

First up, some great envelopes for PDF pattern storage

Here’s the link for the envelopes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T7DNQKL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Lois Dress from Tessuti Fabrics
With a granddaughter on both teams, who does one cheer for? BOTH!
Simplicity 8177 long vest
Nicks Dress and Blouse by Closet Core
Back view of Nicks
Tea House Dress by Sew House Seven
Remy Top by Sew House Seven and Valencia Pant by Sewing Workshop
Cottage Shirt by Sewing Workshop and Bob Pant from StyleArc
No-Zip Skirt by Blue Dot Patterns
Highly recommended reading-for those interested 🙂

Last of April Photos

This is the Lakes Makerie owner’s daughter in Burnside Bibs from Sew House Seven. Several of us bit hard and bought the pattern (I have the fabric in my stash-still some in the store when we were there. We left a few patterns at the store for you to buy or it is now on sale and they have some fun free extensions for the pattern. Hmmm…might have to get busy 🙂

Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs
Metra Blazer/Love Notions in knit
Self drafted pattern using scraps
#2 same as above
Quinn Pant/Merchant & Mills
Fun back detail on Quinn Pant/Merchant & Mills
Mini Marcel/Chalk and Notch
Simplicity 1318
Ashton/Helen’s Closet
Vogue 1277/multiple fabrics and stitching
McCalls 7061
OOP KwikSew with self drafted cuff
Helen’s Closet Moss Jacket
Fringe Dress/Chalk and Notch (there’s a mini version also)
Trio Shirt/Sewing Workshop and Burda 7400 pant
Great warm weather top/can’t remember pattern #
Stanton Tee/Cashmerette
Blanca Flight Suit/Closet Core
In case you need a new tool! Rave reviews!

Wednesday’s Sewing Inspiration

Our very spring-ish meeting at Sewing Lounge today was wonderful! Thursday we’ll be at First Sewing and fabric swapping. Saturday is at Lakes Makerie-hope you can make it!!!

Here’s the link for the YouTube video Debbie mentioned-https://youtu.be/RWfxYYb165k. Enjoy!

George & Ginger 40K Sway Top-free!
Sewing Workshop Maison Joggers with a few adjustments 🙂
Sewing Workshop Picasso Top-also a few adjustments
Sew House Seven Toaster One
And Toaster Two!
Beautiful trim on an Onde Jacket/Sewing Workshop
Bernie’s Award Winning Shirt
Ready to Sew Janis Top
Closet Core Sienna #1
Sienna #2
Sienna #3
Back detail
Sentosa Tank Itch to Stitch
Dawn Jeans by Megan Nielsen
McCalls 8047 Jumpsuit

The People We Rub Shoulders With-

Like Bernie, the winner of Ginny’s Fine Fabrics Shirt contest!! We are working with Bernie to teach shirt technique classes next month. Learn from a pro!! Dates and times soon-

He’ll be at Garment Sewing Group this month (although we hear he’s been relining a wool coat so might not have a new shirt) and you can congratulate him!

Garment Sewing Group this week-

Wednesday, April 12 at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul
Thursday, April 13 at First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, April 15 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Meeting Saturday at Treadle

Last chance for March Garment Sewing Group today at Treadle Yard Goods, 10:30 am.

Here are photos from our meeting on Thursday at First Sewing-

Butterick 6802 in linen minus 10” in length and longer sleeves
All the dots matched along the pleat!!
Now Jacket as modified in Sewing Workshop Club-pinwale cord, E-tee and Helix pant-all Sewing Workshop patterns
Japanese pattern in cable knit
Adaptation of Tremont Jacket
Burda 6990
I Spy quilt/Happy grandma 🙂
Simplicity 9275 in knit
Katherine Tilton blouse in lightweight wool
Burda 6463 as vest in wool
Vogue 1899
Liesl & Co Verdun Woven T-shirt

Wednesday at Lakes Makerie

Yesterday was our first March meeting-we’ll be at First Sewing today, Thursday, March 9 and at Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday. Here’s what we saw at Lakes-

Stacker Jacket by Papercut Patterns in corduroy
Stacker Jacket, back view
New Look 6659 in denim
Sew House Seven Albert Street Skirt in stretch twill available at Lakes
Versatile Top and Pants from Tauko #5
Soho Coat from Sewing Workshop in wool
Chateau Coat from Sewing Workshop in double sided wool
Remy Top from Sew House Seven with free sleeve extension
Latest and greatest men’s shirt!
Cuff detail
Collar detail
Beautiful handwork