Wednesday/Thursday Sew and Show!

Great makes at Ginny’s and Creative. Duck in out of the rain with us at Sewing Lounge on Saturday, 6/14, 10:30 am!!

First up, our U of M Fashion Design student (one more year!) in Burda 6146
End of year project-a swim suit-she highly recommends making your own-
A big month for blouses! New Look 6407 (Debbie also made it this month)
Wren Blouse from Chalk and Notch
Also Wren/Chalk and Notch
Puff and Pencil Wrap Blouse
Simplicity 8983
Polka dot remnants on a tank
Fashion trend: Fruit!!! In Schoolhouse Tunic/Sew Liberated
“Just” a tee shirt dress (OK, tee and skirt/McCalls 6886) in PUCCI knit!!
“Just” a denim jacket-Vogue 1710
With HOLES at the elbows!!!
“Walking the moors” in her Jalie Genevieve skirt
Another great summer blouse-Matchy Matchy Collage Top
Clown costume for the grandkids
Sewn Upline Jacket hacked into a summer sweatshirt
Stylearc Verona on hanger/wearing Jalie Women’s T-Shirt
Jalie Eleonore as nicely topstitched jeans (no, she didn’t make her sneakers-but she could have!!! 🙂
One more Happy Foot!
And the beginnings of second pair!

First Edition/November Garment Sewing Group

Here’s some of what we saw at Sewing Lounge on Saturday!

Join us on Wednesday at Lakes Makerie or Thursday at Creative Sewing in Apple Valley

Cardigan Butterick 6495/Top Butterick 6388
Shirt Vogue 1200/Vest Butterick 6417/Pants Jalie Eleonore
Jacket Allie Olson Monarch Jacket/Cashmerette Concord Tee/Jalie Eleonore Jeans
Paper Cut Sapporo Coat
Sew House Seven Romey
Women’s Aspen Fleece Vest 5 Out of 4 Patterns
Itch to Stitch Deba Topper free download
McCalls 7472
KwikSew 4225
Free Range Pant Sew House Seven/Sewing Workshop Swing Top
Loden Sweater/The Dressmaker’s Guild-free download

October Final

Here is the last of the meetings for October-scroll down for Debbie and Kristin garments and notes:

Ilford Jacket by Friday Pattern Company and self-drafted tiered skirt
Simplicity 8556
Terrazzo Dress by Closet Core Crew
Ginger Jeans by Closet Core
And then there was topstitching…
Roscoe Top and Dress by True Bias
Edie Top and Dress by Merchant and Mills
Sanda Jacket by Merchant and Mills
Pants by Tillie and the Buttons

October 2024

Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

Burda 6461, view B-wool with silk lining

1. This fabric was gifted to me and I felt it was a great opportunity to use for fit and construction techniques for View A from the same pattern.

2. For fit I did not shorten between shoulder and bust but did shorten 1 inch between waist and hip and 1 inch between hip and hem. I shortened the sleeve length by 2 inches. I also did a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. I used “soft” tailoring techniques only adding a sleeve head, shoulder pads and interfacing to all hems.

4. For my next make I will interface entire front, upper back and sleeve cap. I will also make a greater narrow shoulder adjustment. The sleeve cap has too much ease so I will also remove some of that before cutting out View A.

5. Although Burda patterns can be skimpy in directions, words, photos and notches, the jacket went together fairly easy and quickly.

6. I did enjoy the process and I am looking forward to making view A.

Jalie 3676 Vanessa Pants in linen/viscose and Jalie 2682 Women’s Tops in lightweight French terry

1. This is a TNT pant pattern for me and how much I like and wear these pants depends on the fabric. The linen/viscose fabric is okay but I think I prefer a more structured fabric.

2. I eliminate the pieced waistband and make it one piece. I also eliminate the faux zipper and waist tie.

Graphic Print V-Neck Top Jalie 2682

1. Another Jalie TNT pattern for me.

2. I raised the neckline on this make due to the fall weather.

3. Due to 1/4” sa and serging I topstitched the seams to prevent curling and more comfort while wearing.

KwikSew 4069

1. Another TNT pattern. After making my wool jacket it was a nice break to stitch up a few basics to add to my wardrobe. Easy is quick and fun. Now I am ready for a more challenging garment make for November.

November Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, November 9, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

Wednesday, November 13, 10:30, Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis

Thursday, November 14, 10:30, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Sew Social this month: Oct. 10 and 24, 1-4 pm, Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Kristin’s Garments:

Burda 6773 in Lady McElroy stretch twill

1. Pattern has a lining that goes past bust so I made that first for a fit muslin. Cut out a size 16.

2. Decided to make seam allowance 3/8” instead of 5/8” at neckline and also cut for highest neckline (it wasn’t much of a difference between sizes). Kept the 5/8” seam allowance for armholes.

3. Omitted back zip but would stitch neck closed and put zipper below to keep things neat.

4. Adjusted for my hips. Back darts gave nice shaping but fit seemed problematic in lots of places.

5. Resewed the side seams at 1/4” and all problems went away-Yeay!!

6. Definitely a keeper pattern for wearing and fitting.

7. Wore the sheath with Vogue 9347 window pane jacket.

The Assembly Line Car Coat, shortened, in corduroy with Bemberg lining

1. Made size Medium to pattern except for length. Collar has a partial back stand. Pattern includes lining or facings for no lining.

2. Other than a few marking notches being off or nonexistent the pattern went together very well and instructions were good although some of the language isn’t what we’re used to: face to face instead of right sides together.

3. Added patch pockets instead of welt.

4. I chose to add a facing for the back neck and wish I would have assembled the lining separately so the garment wasn’t so bulky at neck seam-next time!

Zakopane Top Itch to Stitch in rayon knit

1. Caroline showed this top last month at Ginny’s and it looked like fun. I made an 8 at the bust and 14 at hip. Pattern calls for fluid knits-cotton knit probably wouldn’t twist.

2. Easy construction except for the piddliness of working with rayon knit. It’s always worth it when the garment is done.

3. Some techniques are overdone for knits-interfacing back neck and understitching neck binding. I didn’t understitch and the neck band was 1 1/2” too long but that could have been a cutting error on my part 🙂

4. Fit is great and it’s a nice vee for me. Twist is easy and looks good-no wrong sides peeking through. Might be a good scrap buster.

Wednesday and Thursday Garments

One more meeting for you to get your sewing inspiration for the month! Saturday, Oct. 12 we’ll be at Lakes Makerie, 10:30.

Here is what we saw at Ginny’s in Rochester and Creative Sewing in Apple Valley:

One of Bernie’s State Fair entries
We all need a label-and a first place ribbon!!
Brenda’s Versace State Fair Closet Core Sienna
Inside view
Skater Top from Stokx Patterns
A Little Something Jacket
Sandra Betzina Vogue OOP
Same pattern with a little hand embroidery
Close up detail of embroidery
Beautifully salvaging a dress that became a skirt
Picasso Top Sewing Workshop
Vintage 90’s Blouse
Burda Blouse
Butterick 5926
Wool gauze sweater
Perfect summer blouse
Remake of a great vintage pattern-from the original fabric!
Self drafted handbag
Cielo from Closet Core and Vogue 8712 pant
Cutest little Barbie shirt from KwikSew for Children

Frocktails Pics/October Meetings This Week!

First off-Garment Sewing Group meetings:

Wednesday, Oct. 9 at Ginny’s Fine Fabrics, Rochester (let me know if you want to carpool)

Thursday, Oct. 10 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley (and fabric swap!)

Saturday, Oct. 12 at Lakes Makerie (beginning serger class offered at 1 pm following GSG)

And then Frocktails!!!! Thanks go to organizers Hannah, Madee and Elin!! Food, beverages, venue, decorations, mixers, raffle…awesome!

I’m almost positive you can see that YOU fit in to this group-make sure you are there next year!!

Fearless leaders at raffle table-Hannah, Madee, attendee, Elin, l-r
Waiting for raffle numbers to be called-many double winners!
Hannah in her ombré dress
Katie Knoblach look alike!!
Gorgeous jacket and self drafted bias dress
Picture quality needs help but you can tell what people wore/sewed
This is her seventh Jasika/Closet Core jacket!! She rocked it!
Made for an Indian wedding-from Sewing Lounge
The beautiful Cosplay contingent
Self drafted-very runway worthy
Much fun in an Elodie/Closet Core
All sewists were represented!!
My new friend from Rochester in her plant dyed dress

Saturday’s Sew and Tell

It was the day before Mother’s Day and this wonderful mother/daughters group was the highlight of the morning!! So cool to gather around a love of making clothes!

Mom made the jacket for daughter
Rosemary in Pauline Alice Tello Jacket
Rosemary made Love Notions Metra Blazer for sister
Kathy and Mom had different ideas for the same fabric-Kathy is New Look 6650, Mom/Rita is Simplicity 9328
Sewing her way through Closet Core Pietra Pants
New Look 6394 in light flannel
Florence Shirt/Merchant & Mills/cotton
Beautifully buttoned back
Thimble Patterns Kimono/cotton jacquard
Grainline Studio Tee/Self drafted pant
Plum House bag
Remy Raglan
E Tee, Hudson Top, Valencia Pant-Sewing Workshop
Oakley Vest and Ballad Blouse-Love Notions, Free Range Pant-Sew House Seven
Capsule wardrobe-StyleArc Estelle Ponte Jacket, Minttu Tank/Named Patterns, Jessica Pocket Legging/Jalie
Simplicity D0655 Top and New Look 6005 pant
Fun and well executed details on New Look 6005 pant
Dresses for Mother’s Day ala Destiny’s Child!

February Makes

We’ve had a great start to our February meetings! Last chance is tomorrow at Lakes Makerie-10:30 am. Hope to see you—

Sewing Workshop Icon Vest
Self drafted motorcycle pants in Cordura-300 denier weight
Love Notions La Bella Donna-knit
Cotton knit dress from KwikSew Sewing for Children book
Simplicity 9272 knit jackets/Blouse-Zen from Now & Zen Sewing Workshop
Back pleat detail from Zen Shirt
Marley Shirt/StyleArc in wool challis
Toaster Sweater/Sew House Seven in sweater knit
Toaster Sweater (other version) in short sleeves with Brussels Skirt/Loes Hinse with the perfect boots to boot!!
Eureka Top/Sewing Workshop in lightweight Japanese cotton
Vintage Board Shirt in Pendleton wool
Florence Shirt/Sewing Workshop back detail
Simplicity 9825 and 9471 mashup in brushed cotton
Final version of vintage and self drafted vest
One jacket became another-based on Vogue 8676
Back view
Burda 6322 in japanese cotton
Clare Coat/Closet Core in wool
Day brightener lining!!

Saturday’s Makes in January

Loden Sweater/Dressmaker’s Guild in boiled wool
Burda 8168
Andes Jacket/Itch to Stitch
Ilford Jacket/Friday Pattern Company
Simplicity 9198 vest
Vetiver Dress/Peony Patterns
The Assembly Line Shirt in flannel
Sharon Holland bag in Miss Matatabi fabric
Burda 7045 men’s shirt and Vogue 9347
Burda 8296
Favorite tee Vogue 9057
Hand knit sweater in exchange for corduroy shirt
Jalie T-shirt and runners from paperpieces.com

January Garment Sewing Group Handout

Garment Sewing Group

January 2024

www.materialgirlsewing.com

Debbie’s Garments:

Burda 5855 in wool-Kristin made same pattern in Oct.

This is an unlined jacket pattern but since I was using a wool I wanted to line it. I drafted a pattern for the front and back lining. I did some “light” tailoring by interfacing all hems and using a wigum (sleeve head) in the sleeve cap. I also bagged the lining.

1. The collar piece in the pattern is rounded. However the pattern picture, line drawing and instruction sheet show the collar squared off. I adjusted the collar piece to look like pattern.

2. The pattern is labeled super easy. Hopefully even though the pattern does not mention stay stitching or understitching most sewers would use these techniques.

3. I appreciate the bust darts – gives the jacket less boxy look.

4. The pattern calls for hand sewn snaps that do not show for the closure. I don’t think I will use any closures.

Simplicity 1538, view C with cuff from view D in cotton

1. I heard good things about this pattern so I thought I would give it a try and compare it to another TNT shirt pattern in my stash.

2. Fit changes that I made include shortening between shoulder and bust, removing 3 inches in length and a narrow shoulder adjustment.

3. I did change order of construction because I like to work with the piece flat as long as possible.

4. The directions for the shirt are very good. They include the burrito method for the yoke and the collar and neckband directions are excellent.

5. The band is a sew on and the directions have you sew rs of band to ws of shirt which gives a clean finish. I used my standard machine for construction and French seams as well as my serger.

6. I feel it is a very good pattern and I will use it again but will soften the hemline curve and change the gathered yoke to a pleat.

KwikSew 3555 in tencel

1. This is the TNT shirt pattern I referred to above.

2. Some of the differences between the McCalls and Kwiksew pattern are that the seam allowance for KS is 1/4 inch, sleeve construction is flat and the band is cut on the front, no facing.

3. I used French seams as much as possible because of the color of the shirt. I am not sure I like the feel of the French seam on both shirts in the armhole.

4. Also the McCalls shirt has bust darts. You can easily add vertical darts on front and back of Kwik sew pattern to get a more fitted look.

5. I like both patterns and they will both be a TNT in my pattern stash.

February Garment Sewing Group

*Moved up one week – Wednesday, February 7, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge, St.Paul

Thursday, February 8th, 10:30 at Creative Sewing, Apple Valley

Saturday, February 10, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

Kristin’s Garments:

Loden Sweater/Dressmaker’s Guild in cotton velvet

1. Several people have shown this pattern (free! only pay for printing) but I guess I wasn’t listening very well. It is made for boiled wool and has unfinished hems and outside facing seams. But the pattern was already cut out (I did wonder about the vent cut outs…

2. The velvet looked more refined so I didn’t expose any seams plus the fabric would have shed for a while and it also rolls.

3. The sleeves are extra long so you can fold them up so I shortened them.

4. The collar was single layer but I sewed two together and love the result.

5. The vents were angled up into the seam allowance-happy with that too.

6. I had three buttons but the thickness of the collar allowed only two so I put the last one on the pocket 🙂

Marie-Claude Raglan/Jalie and Ruby Joggers/Paprika Patterns

1. Several people have also made this raglan turtleneck (neck has two pieces) and it was waiting in my pattern stash. Love raglans, especially when sewing for family and size range can’t be beat.

2. Also love the cuff (didn’t do the thumb hole). Finishes up a turtle so nicely.

3. The turtleneck is doubled and at first I thought too much but it grew on me. Great fit all over as usual for Jalie. Another favorite turtleneck pattern!!

Ruby Joggers/Paprika Patterns

1. I had an earlier pair in my closet that was seeing a lot of wear so I thought I’d try them again. I had thrown away the pattern (should have been a hint!) so had to reorder.

2. Chose my size but yoke in back was way too big.

3. Made some necessary changes and then some more! and they are OK but again the pattern will not stay in rotation (and I’ll make a note somewhere (?) to not try again.

4. I did learn one thing tho-the pocket bag that is totally sewn into the side seam gives a smoother finish for me than the pocket that is only partially sewn into seam and then hangs.

Simplicity R11967/9818 in cotton shirting

1. Beautiful vintage blouse with lots of tuck/darts at the waist but, alas, not for me! After much tailor tacking and knot tying, the blouse would not fit around me so out they all came!!

2. Lowered bust dart 1 inch and could have lowered a bit more.

3. Underarms were high along with tight circumference so 5/8” side seam became 1/4”.

4. Sleeves were 3/4 length so added about 3” and changed the cuff.

5. Stripes were fun-I’m tempted to buy more fabric and try some shadowing.

6. It was a fun sew-maybe again in summer and a larger size!!

Fashion TV to watch- Jan. 19, Disney “Cristobal Balenciaga” and Feb. 14, Apple TV “The New Look” about Christian Dior and contemporaries.

January Makes by You

Fun meetings at Lakes Makerie and Creative Sewing! We’re hoping to be at The Sewing Lounge on Saturday morning at 10:30-Mother Nature willing…

Christine Jonson 3 Tees in sweater knit
The Assembly Line V-Neck Dress in linen
Eva Sweater Dress/Misusu Patterns in cotton knit
McCalls 7262
Tremont Vest/Sewing Workshop in wool and batik
Tie Sweater/The Assembly Line
Jack Tar Bag/Merchant & Mills in oilcloth
Burda 2560 in flannel
Simplicity 8105 in velvet
Rye Vest/By Hand book in linen jacquard
Overshirt Jacket/Wardrobe By Me in cotton velvet
Travel Bags/By Annie in various cottons
Modern Quilt-no pattern
Tello Jacket/Pauline Alice in stretch gabardine
Self drafted running shorts based on Greenstyle Boxers in nylon knit
Toaster Sweaters/Sew House Seven
Arrow Pocket in new lining of coat