November GSG Photos and Comments :)

Garment Sewing Group/November 2022

Debbie’s Garments:

**Itch to Stitch Cerrito Alto Jacket/Cotton blend with ponte contrast**

My Jacket of Mistakes and Disappointments! What Happened?

– Chose the wrong size

– Not enough fabric thus knit sleeves with woven main fabric and unlined sleeves – needed to adjust lining construction

– Cut off too many zipper teeth and lost pull when testing and needed to rip out and insert again –

– It is a tailored jacket and I wasn’t prepared for that

– omitted zipper welt pockets

– too much in a hurry and so much more!

I like this jacket pattern. The directions are very detailed and well illustrated. The method of attaching the lining without any hand sewing is terrific. I will give this a try again but not for a long time.

**KwikSew 3555, Cotton** **and Burda 7062, Stretch cotton corduroy**

1. This is TNT pattern for me but I am ready to try something new.

2. I like the contrast band even though it is black. The only thing I would do differently would be to sew the band to the center front right sides together so the black fabric would be exposed and not the ws of the print.

1. Another TNT pattern for me but again, ready to try something new.

**True Bias Marlo Sweater, Sweater knit blend**

1. So I tried something new and I didn’t do well.

2. I did shorten the length between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeve. I also lengthened the short version of the sweater by 2”.

3. I feel I should have used a more stable sweater knit.

4. I constructed the sweater with the serger and tried topstitching the bands using a walking foot but that did not work well – needed a more stable knit.

5. I gave up on buttonholes after trying Solvy and sticky back stabilizer to no avail.

6. The sweater is no longer a cardigan since I sewed the bands closed with buttons – it works.

Kristin’s Garments

**Karine Sweater Jalie 4242, Various knits**

1. Had to try one of the versions of the short cardigan. This one is a raglan-probably cut along the lines of their Romy pattern.

2. No hem band or back neck facing. Wrapped seams used very effectively.

3. Had fun using stash pieces.

**Laundry Day Tee Love Notions, Rayon knit**

1. Looking for a fuller-at-hem tee to layer under garments.

2. This is a size large-narrow across shoulders. Close fit through bust and back.

**Mitchell Trousers Closet Core, Bottom weight herringbone**

**Well fitting back side without the welt pockets**

1. A new pattern that I just had to try. Blakandblanca Instagram photo inspired me. Wide leg and tapered leg version. I made a size 16 in wide leg version.

2. Directions are great. Everything came together. The pleat is a bit different and I’d love to see someone else’s version of it.

3. Discovered the bar tack feature on my sewing machine.

4. Omitted welt pockets and side tabs.

5. Fit worked very well. Lots of trouser features (fly shield!)-unfortunately most of them are invisible to the general public 🙂 A slower sew but worth it in the end.

November 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, December 8, 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, December 10, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, December 14, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

November Sewing

We’ll be at Ginny’s on Friday (11/11) at 1 pm, kind of a pop-up Garment Sewing Group :)) Ginny is also having a silk sale!

Then we’ll be a Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday at 10:30 am for our last November meeting. Hope you can make it!

And here’s some of what we saw on Wednesday-

Last Month’s Garment Sewing Group

Looking a little bit like it was a slumber party, here are our October garments and notes.

We’ll be at the Sewing Lounge tomorrow (Wednesday), then First Sewing on Thursday and Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday. See you!?

Debbie’s Garments:

1. A TNT pattern for me. This pattern can be made up in a variety of knits that can be casual or dressy and takes about a yard of 54-60 inch fabric. It’s a win-win.

2. The original pattern has a longer shirt tail hem on back . I made the front and back even in length with a shirt tail hem.

3. Instead of a neckband I did a serged “bias” edge finish to eliminate bulk and give it a more dressy look.

1. I was excited to try this pattern because it seemed relaxed but a step up from an everyday bathrobe. I still feel that way but constructing it is a different story – it is very “putsy” to make and put on! The waffle knit sews as smooth as butter.

2. I made the robe knee length.

3. The front band is connected to a faced neck band that hugs the back neck.

4. The pattern sets in sleeves but I put them in using the flat method.

5. I added the ties for closing the band after the robe was finished so I could get correct placement due to my height-I am short .

**Love Notions Tranquil Nightwear, Art Gallery cotton knit**
**Bottoms: Jalie Jeanne #4016, Art Gallery cotton knit**

1. This pattern runs large – next time I will take that in consideration when choosing a size.

2. Instead of neckband I serged a contrast knit strip to neck edge and then folded contrast to wrong side and stitched in the ditch to secure trim.

3. I put a straight hem on the sleeves rather than adding trim at an angle.

Coral Dot PJ Bottoms

1. My go to pattern for a quick and easy make.

2. I made it to pattern but I did change up the waist band by doing an “Eileen Fischer type” waistband. I determine the waist measurement and sew the elastic as a circle. Then the rs of the elastic is serged to rs of pj waist. The elastic is turned to ws and stitched in the ditch at center front and back and side seams.

Kristin’s Garments

**New Look 6581 robe-cotton velvet, pants**–**rayon knit**

1. Shortened the waist (tie point) by 1.5” and when I shortened the neck facing accordingly, it was easier to just fold the center front in (and lessen the overlap at CF). This also took out some bulk in the overlap.

2. Cut out a size 16 and graded larger at hips and took 1/4” seams at sides and sleeve seams. Sleeves are narrow and have a high cap but went in nicely. And to be fair, that pattern photo suggests this is to be worn without something underneath.

3. Fabric was wonderful to work with-used triple zigzag to understitch neck edge. Interfaced the back neck facing but just used 3/8” fusible stabilizer for larger part of neck edge.

4. Omitted the hole in side seam and attaching ties so I can try different solutions as I plan to wear tied most of time and the stickiness of fabric will keep flaps in place (I think).

5. Made size 20 which is largest that New Look usually goes. With this stretch rayon, it was a good size. Pant seems wider than pattern photo. Turned down an extra 2” at waist mostly due to stretchiness and weight of fabric.

**Butterick 6491 Katherine Tilton, fabric content unknown**

1. I couldn’t help myself-this was the pattern I had in my head for this fabric. I have a wedding in Phoenix and didn’t want to blend in-ha!!

2. Because of the lantern shape there was no need to increase at hips! Pretty much made to pattern-sleeves are on the slender side but it is a tunic and not a jacket so that’s OK.

3. Collar was applied with the hot dog technique from my “At Any Angle” shirts last month. The collar is very high but turns over nicely.

4. Interesting selvage edge was used at hems and facing.

5. I have a dress waiting in the wings in case I lose my nerve or the temperature remains high.

**Love Notions La Bella Donna, jersey knit**

1. Last month’s Willow Tank from Grainline Studio was great to wear under my At Every Angle shirt so I thought rayon would make a great knit option under a top but I wanted a short sleeve without the bulk of seams.

2. Pattern calls for 1.25” neckband optional but more as a wrap. I wanted a bit more strength to hold the stretchy rayon in place so I treated it as a tee shirt neckband. I like the narrowness of it.

3. Took in under arm-I think mostly because of the rayon knit.

November 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, November 9, 10:30, Sewing Lounge

Thursday, November 10, 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, November 12, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Photos from Wednesday Meeting

We’ll be at First Sewing on Thursday, August 11 at 10:30 for version 2 of GSG and Fabric Swap!

Here are photos from today at Treadle Yard Goods-

Wren Blouse/Chalk and Notch and Remy/Sew House Seven

Reserve Champion at Washington County Fair

August Meetings Coming Up/July’s Photos

August meetings for Garment Sewing Group are as follows:

Wednesday, August 10, 10:30 Treadle Yard Goods

Thursday, August 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Blmgtn., and FABRIC SWAP

Saturday, August 13, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Hope to see you and your end of summer sewing!

July 2022 Garment Sewing Group Photos and Notes

Debbie’s Garments:

Closet Core Elodie Dress, Italian linen/cotton blend

I was a little hesitant making this dress due to style vibe and fitting concerns. I read lots of reviews, listened to Brenda and made a muslin. Then I thought go for it and I am glad I did. It is a fun make.

1. I did my petite adjustments between shoulder and bust but not any length!

2. The construction is easy and very clear. I did question the direction of stay stitching the pattern directs. It is just the opposite of the way I was taught.

3. Not fond of the construction technique used for the opening for the tie. Next time I would put in a buttonhole.

**Somerset Tee/Maven Patterns, cotton jersey**
**A-line skirt, pattern unknown, cotton sateen**

I have no idea what pattern the skirt is cut from. I have a traced pattern with no info on it but it is a TNT. The fabric is cotton sateen.

1. The pattern is simple and easy to make however the fabric gave me a little trouble. Thought I was buying a panel but it was sold by yardage. Therefore I really needed to be careful cutting so I could get the print where I wanted it.

2. Again, fabric was scarce so instead of losing fabric to a hem I serged a bias strip around the hem.

3. I put in a side invisible zipper and the waist is shaped with facing, no waistband.

Coral Boatneck Tee/Somerset Tee by Maven patterns (photo above)

1. I did not need any petite adjustments but I did shorten length on front, back and sleeve one inch.

2. I love a boatneck and this is a good one. The directions are clear and concise and produce RTW results.

3. I would decrease the width of the back neckline with small darts on paper pattern before cutting the next make.

4. This was a fun make. I like the variety of sleeves the pattern offers.

**Coral Tropical print pants/Jalie Eleonore/cotton stretch sateen**

1. This is a TNT pattern that I make often. Each time I add or delete design features.

2. I eliminated the back pockets and I tapered the legs about 2 inches from knee to leg hems.

Kristin’s Garments:

**J502 Wrap Jacket/The Assembly Line Patterns/Cotton woven stripe**

1. Front band is cut on as part of front pattern piece and darts help make the turn. Interesting and well thought out construction.

2. Made a size medium which fit perfectly-graded to next size at hips. Sleeves a bit wide for my taste.

3. Did all interfacing as pattern directed. Fun summer jacket to wear tied.

1. Basic raglan robe pattern which can be hard to find. In my stash for some time and still available on the internet. I made a size medium-it’s also a bit A-lined.

2. Misread placement dots for belt but it worked out in the end 🙂

3. Applied neck/front band to wrong side of robe and wrapped seam allowance with bias contrast fabric and love the detail.

4. Linen makes a wonderful robe for hot weather!

Vogue 8906 OOP, View C

1. This is a view from a TNT pattern that I have always wanted to try. Cut on sleeves, no darts and a v-neck with some shaping pleats to boot!

2. Used a 3/8” seam allowance at neck for a closer neck. Did a forward shoulder just because it’s an old Vogue. Had to add a cuff because sleeve was too short. Topstitched facings down.

3. Buttonholes were a struggle but Solvy did the trick!

August Garment Sewing Group Meetings

Wednesday, August 10, 10:30 Treadle Yard Goods

Thursday, August 11, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, August 13, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Saturday’s Meeting

A beautiful summer Saturday and great sewing inspiration!

We’ll be at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis, on Wednesday, July 13 and First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday, July 14 (and FABRIC SWAP). Both start at 10:30 am!

Vogue 1264-who’s still got it in their stash?

Front of Vogue 1264 jacket and Vogue 1729 pants (they have a nice ankle pleat)

Final of 3 Japanese panels (first one in June) Assembly Line Long Sleeve Tunic

Front pattern piece was cut to accommodate panel

Terra Tunic from Love Notions-saved!! Are you supposed to READ pattern instructions?? Happens to all of us 🙂

Trio Pattern from Sewing Workshop and Barry Pant from StyleArc

Butterick 6856 in a beautiful silk and perfect buttons!

Happy Sewing!!

More Inspiration from June

We’ll be at First Sewing all day, Thursday, June 30 (end of another month!) Serger in the am and Sew Social pm. Still room for YOU!

Elodie Dress/Closet Core-Men’s Jacket/Simplicity 8962

Kingston Jacket/Sew Beautiful-York Top/Seamwork

We’ll be at Lakes Makerie on July 13 for the start of July Garment Sewing Group! See you there——

Serger Class starts next week AND June GSG

Our next Basic & Beyond Sergery class starts next Thursday, June 30 at 10 am at First Sewing, 494 and Penn! The class continues July 7 and 21. Go to “Classes at First Sewing” in the menu bar to register.

June Garment Sewing Group:

Debbie’s Garments:

**Navy Jacket, Burda 6760, View C, Silk Matka and Rayon Crepe Lining**

1. This is an unlined jacket so my first step was to draft lining pattern pieces. The sleeves are underlined. Also a dart in the sleeve creates a 2 piece look which I like. It eliminates a lot of bulk.

2. I did petite between shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment but did not shorten length because it is a cropped style.

3. Due to the texture of the main fabric I only interfaced the under collar.

4. Also due to the texture of the fabric I did not top stitch.

5. This pattern is from 2015. It was a fun make and I also decreased my pattern collection.

**Coral with Navy Dot Classic Blouse, NewLook 6698, View B, Cotton Sateen**

1. As always I did my petite adjustments but did not shorten the hem length – this is a crop length shirt.

2. The pattern envelope gives yardage for a skirt. There is no skirt in this pattern – maybe a typing error. That should have been my first clue that the pattern had some flaws.

3. The neckband is too short for neck and the directions for collar insertion are poor.

4. The only feature different from my TNT blouse pattern is the “cuff”.

Navy Gingham Pants, Burda 7062, Gingham with Bemberg lining, see photo above

1. This pattern is from 2013 and has been updated in the catalog.

2. I eliminated the side slits and added a lining.

3. This is a TNT for me and it will stay in pattern collection.

Coral “Scraps” Blouse

1. I did my standard petite adjustments and removed 2 inches from the length. I also softened the shirt tail hem and removed length from there as well. The designer is tall!

2. I raised the v-neck 1 inch.

3. I changed construction steps because I wanted to have the neck band on the rs of the blouse. I used the shorten/lengthen line to determine the the length of back top and bottom.

4. I chose this pattern because of the lantern sleeve. I am not fan of v-neck blouses but I thought I would give it a try anyway.

5. It was a fun make even though the construction techniques are kind of putsy and 1/2 seam allowances are used – WHY?!

Kristin’s Garments:

**Summer Jacket/The Fold London, Vogue 1648, Stretch woven blend**

1. Pattern includes lining but didn’t want to lose the stretch of fabric so just used facings.

2. Very large pleat in back was topstitched through all layers-directions had it hanging loose-I wanted a bit more of a “yoke line” to copy garment.

3. Center front overlap was eliminated so no closure. Corners at collar were rounded.

4. This pattern was previously made in fleece. Fits surprisingly well (no forward shoulder needed, bust dart in proper place, sleeve is great.

Brick Summer Pants, Vanessa Fluid Pants/Jalie Patterns, Silk blend fabric? See photo below

1. Added 3” to length-omitted cuff.

2. Darts are extended 2” for a lower seat 🙂

3. Waist band is made into one continuous strip eliminating seams and tie.

4. Great pants pattern-TNT!

**Woven Summer Blouse, Harmony Blouse/Love Notions, Rayon challis and Jalie Vanessa Pants**

1. Made to pattern as the hip area is already wider.

2. Neck binding is supposed to be turned all the way under, I like wrapping the serged edge.

3. Center back seam has waist shaping but the opening isn’t necessary to get blouse on. I just sewed the button on permanently.

4. Several sleeve variations. Great summer woven tee with a dart.

5. Great fit for my body!

Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Green cotton/lycra knit crew neck

**Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Tomato rayon knit vee neck**

1. Shortened length 2”.

2. Both necklines are great depthwise. Vee is quite pointed and the rayon fabric didn’t help. Pattern also includes a scoop neck and all sleeve length variations.

3. Definitely a TNT!

July 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Saturday, July 9, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, July 13, 10:30 Lakes Makerie, Mpls

Thursday, July 14, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap 🙂

May Garments

Squeaking in on the last day of May…for June meeting dates and locations, please scroll to end of post-

Garment Sewing Group

Debbie’s Garments:

**Navy/Teal Tie Knit Dress, New Look 6650, Cotton jersey**

1. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the hem length by 2 inches – whoops – it feels a little too short.

2. I did a serged “bias” neck finish instead of turning under neck edge twice and topstitching as pattern directs. I also eliminated the side slit.

3. Fun, easy make that can be casual or dressy, depending on fabric choice.

**Navy Stripe Dolman Tee, Jalie 3352, Rayon jersey**

1. Made my standard petite adjustments as well as shortening hem length.

2. I added a neckband rather than folding neck edge to ws and top stitching. Also added cuffs to again avoid turning hem to inside and topstitching.

3. This is a TNT pattern for me. I like how it fits, there are several looks and it is a great scrap buster.

**Navy Print Quilted Cardigan, New Look 6351 hack, Liberty of London with cotton flannel batting, rayon crepe lining**

1. I tried to copy a RTW garment and did fairly well except I wish I would have used very light batting instead of flannel. It is not as soft as RTW garment.

2. Besides my standard petite adjustments I straightened the CF so the fronts meet, not overlap.

3. For construction: stitch side fronts to fronts for main fabric, batting and lining. Follow same procedure for CB seam. Quilt front, back and sleeves using walking foot and 1/2 vertical rows at 3.0 stitch length. Jacket is then serged together.

4. I added a contrast band for CF and hemmed sleeves and bottom with bias strip bands.

5. The RTW version added buttons and buttonholes – I did not.

6. It was a good project to work on during our cold spring but I am done with quilting for a long time now!

Coral Side Button Tee, Simplicity 9229 hack to copy Love Notions Lincoln Top, Cotton modal

1. To redesign the pattern I eliminated the side seam and made the back and wedge one piece allowing for sa and placket folds. Later I added a placket to button edge because my math was incorrect! A two inch length of fabric was pressed wst and serged to rst of shirt back side seam.

2. On the side fronts I added 1 inch plus sa for button hole placket. The placket edges were clean finished, pressed to ws and top stitched.

3. The back hem is longer by one inch.

4. I did make buttonholes but really not necessary.

5. This became more of a chore than I planned on and I realize now I should have just bought the Love Notions pattern!

Kristin’s Garments

Woven Tee, Coram Top/Allie Olson, Rayon woven

1. Quick to sew with raglan sleeves. Bust dart is a plus.

2. As with most popular patterns of this type, the neck is on the larger end of spectrum.

3. I took it in 3/8” along shoulder dart and through sleeve as it seemed a bit low under arms also.

4. Neck band also seemed long but bias binding can stretch when pressed so follow pattern directions and adjust as needed.

**Summer Dress, Sandra Betzina Vogue 1530 OOP View A, Scuba knit/wool knit**

1. Eliminated center back seam. Added back darts.

2. Eliminated skirt lining because scuba hung nicely without. Turned under underarms and stitched to make up for lack of lining.

3. Like the fit and the way it went together.

4. Omitted the trim down the side seams as wool knit was thick.

5. Disappointed with fusible interfacing results around decorative neck hole. Glued too well.

6. Hole in front yoke fussy but a fun detail.

**Willow Wrap Dress/Love Notions, Rayon knit**

1. Made the first version in a medium and that was too small so tried XL and that was much better except bust was big so took shaping out of front bust area.

2. Tried elastic trim for neckline (floral version) and band per pattern (solid version).

3. Lots of options-higher neckline and lower (solid knit was in between), pleated front and plain front, 3 sleeve lengths and a children’s version (separate purchase).

June 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, June 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Thursday, June 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap

Saturday, June 11, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Classes and Saturday’s Pics

We have two classes starting this week-

Serge (or Sew) This: Woven Tee: Wed., May 18, 25, June 2, 10:30-12:30, Treadle

Serge (or Sew) This: Core Pattern Tee: Thurs., May 19, 26, June 2, 10-12, First Sewing

Register online at Treadle for Treadle class and Material Girls for First Sewing class. Email materialgirlsewing@gmail.com for questions.

	Julie Tebay on December Meetings Ended With N…
	Julie Tebay on October Garment Sewing Group…
	Diana on Final Photos for Septembe…
	Bernard Graham on UFO’s and We Meet Next We…
	Julie Tebay on UFO’s and We Meet Next We…

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this:

Share this: