Last of January Photos

I hope you are in the sunshine somewhere-it’s beautiful!! Speaking of beautiful-here are the remaining sew and tell pics. Another great month of sewing!

Lisette 6296
Simplicity 9291 Gertie pattern
Shucks, I didn’t write down the wrap sweater pattern! Can anyone help me out?
Sapporo Coat/now Nova Coat from Papercut Patterns
Vogue 1784
OOP coat pattern
Historically correct doll bodice
Daughter/mother duo in The Blouse by Avid Seamstress (daughter) and Estelle Ponte Jacket by Stylearc (mother)
Madden Skirt by Tessuti Patterns
Tremont Jacket/Vest by The Sewing Workshop X 2
Nancy’s Blouse by Silhouette Patterns in rayon batik
McCalls 7874 from two old sweatshirts!
Vogue 8854
Wool Coat-Logan Shacket by Stylearc
Copied ready-to-wear/still making modifications

Happy sewing for February!!

January Garment Sewing Group Photos

Another wonderful week of meetings despite weather challenges! It is such a pleasure to get together with like minded people and talk about sewing. And afterwards at lunch, too!

Check out the article in Minneapolis/St. Paul Magazine about all the wonderful fabric store options in the metro area! Old news for us but about time everyone else hears about it 🙂

Garment Sewing Group-January 2023

Debbie’s Garments:

Simplicity 9106, cotton flannel

1. Standard petite adjustments were made as well as a narrow shoulder adjustment and overall garment length by 1 inch.

2. The back hem was made even to the front so that the wrong side of the floral print would not be visible.

3. Instead of slip stitching the inside collar, I added a bias strip to cover neck edge.

4. I basted a contrast facing to right front then had my serger cut at basting stitch line. Then the the facing was wrapped around serger stitch to have contrast from facing show and again not have wrong side of navy print visible. The trim was stitched in the ditch to secure.

5. Contrast cuffs were added to sleeves.

Green Plaid Shirt

Helga Shirt by Tessuti Fabrics, View B
(Helga is OOP-new version is Harlow) in textured cotton

1. Determined size then did fitting adjustments, made a muslin and then started over. Needed to go down two sizes. – it is very oversized.

2. Generally the pattern has very good construction techniques but it does go from 3/8” to 1/4” seam allowances so you must pay attention. Also there is a lot of hand basting that could be replaced by serging an edge and press under.

3. This was a fun but challenging make. Too many pattern fit adjustments were needed and that affected the neck opening and slide slits a bit. Also, plaid fabric probably wasn’t the best choice when matching seams.

Tabitha Tee by Love Notions in cotton knits

1. This a TNT pattern, especially when using up leftovers.

2. For this make I sewed the rst of neckband to wrong side of tee and then topstitched the band at neck edge.

Kristin’s Garments:

Assembly Line Shirt Dress in charcoal tencel
No safety pins!!

1. Features: bust and bodice back darts, skirt is more a-line, fold over placket, simple turn under sleeve placket.

2. Started with a medium size bodice and large skirt-bodice snug so redrew lines and cut a large size for bodice.

3. Sleeves are very similar to the Burda pattern. Turning under the placket was quick and easy, especially with the tencel. Sleeve cap less shaped than Burda.

4. Fold under placket was another time saver.

5. Good instructions, lots of information, mostly clear 🙂 Happy with my fabric choice.=

Burda Shirt Dress #5971 in stretch twill
No safety pins!!

1. Features: bust darts only, straighter skirt, not as much shape, folded sew-on placket, traditional sleeve placket.

2. Made size 16 bodice and 18 skirt. Fit well.

3. Sleeve has a well shaped cap, took a little easing with the twill.

4. Pattern instructions were misplaced so followed Grainline instructions.

Burda 6067, Neck B in cotton knit

1. Burda has a “new look” which seems to mean even less instructions! But still the same great drafting.

2. Narrow-but not too-turtle neck. Long sleeve has ruching with a strip of elastic but not interested.

3. I sized up as it seemed to be close fitting, happy I did.

New Look 6469 in rayon knit

1. Similar to Laundry Day Tee made previously except raglan instead of set in sleeves.

2. Pattern calls for a zip with the turtle neck but not necessary with rayon knit. Turtle neck very similar in size to the Burda tee above.

3. I like the fit of the New Look better than Love Notions Laundry Day.

February Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, February 8, 10:30 at Quilters Haven in Rosemount

Thursday, February 9, 10:30 at First Sewing in Bloomington

Saturday, February 11, 10:30 at the Sewing Lounge in St. Paul

Lots to See on Saturday

Great turnout in Lakes Makerie’s new classroom! Sunny, wood floors and bright yellow chairs-snow didn’t seem quite so overwhelming.

We’ll be at Sewing Lounge in St. Paul on Wednesday and First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday, both start at 10:30.

Sandra Betzina wool coat
Warm lining
Elastic Tie Sweater
Jalie 2682
Remy from Grainline Studio with free sleeve extension
Vogue 8924
Vintage shirt in plaid wool

Happy Thanksgiving and More Photos

We are thankful for all of you allowing us to keep doing what we love! You inspire us every month-speaking of-next month’s meetings will be:

December meetings: Thursday, 12/8 at First Sewing, Saturday, 12/10 at Treadle Yard Goods, Wednesday, 12/14 at Lakes Makerie

Can’t wait!!! Hope you all enjoy your Turkey Day, however you celebrate!

Copied RTW, original on left
Upcycling-Garment bag from oversized men’s shirt
Butterick 6241
Silhouette 8019 Diane’s Wrap Dress
OOP KwikSew
Vogue 9244
Great kids’ Christmas gift McCalls 8250
Sewing Workshop Sterling Jacket
McCalls 7969
Chateau Jacket Sewing Workshop
KwikSew 2895
Butterick 6634
Stanway Tee, Cashmerette Ahead of the Curve book
Opal Coat & Cardigan, Paprika Patterns
And a little Merry Christmas!

November GSG Photos and Comments :)

Garment Sewing Group/November 2022

Debbie’s Garments:

Itch to Stitch Cerrito Alto Jacket/Cotton blend with ponte contrast

My Jacket of Mistakes and Disappointments! What Happened?

Chose the wrong size

Not enough fabric thus knit sleeves with woven main fabric and unlined sleeves – needed to adjust lining construction

Cut off too many zipper teeth and lost pull when testing and needed to rip out and insert again –

It is a tailored jacket and I wasn’t prepared for that

omitted zipper welt pockets

too much in a hurry and so much more!

I like this jacket pattern. The directions are very detailed and well illustrated. The method of attaching the lining without any hand sewing is terrific. I will give this a try again but not for a long time.

KwikSew 3555, Cotton and Burda 7062, Stretch cotton corduroy

1. This is TNT pattern for me but I am ready to try something new.

2. I like the contrast band even though it is black. The only thing I would do differently would be to sew the band to the center front right sides together so the black fabric would be exposed and not the ws of the print.

1. Another TNT pattern for me but again, ready to try something new.

True Bias Marlo Sweater, Sweater knit blend

1. So I tried something new and I didn’t do well.

2. I did shorten the length between shoulder and bust on front, back and sleeve. I also lengthened the short version of the sweater by 2”.

3. I feel I should have used a more stable sweater knit.

4. I constructed the sweater with the serger and tried topstitching the bands using a walking foot but that did not work well – needed a more stable knit.

5. I gave up on buttonholes after trying Solvy and sticky back stabilizer to no avail.

6. The sweater is no longer a cardigan since I sewed the bands closed with buttons – it works.

Kristin’s Garments

Karine Sweater Jalie 4242, Various knits

1. Had to try one of the versions of the short cardigan. This one is a raglan-probably cut along the lines of their Romy pattern.

2. No hem band or back neck facing. Wrapped seams used very effectively.

3. Had fun using stash pieces.

Laundry Day Tee Love Notions, Rayon knit

1. Looking for a fuller-at-hem tee to layer under garments.

2. This is a size large-narrow across shoulders. Close fit through bust and back.

Mitchell Trousers Closet Core, Bottom weight herringbone
Well fitting back side without the welt pockets

1. A new pattern that I just had to try. Blakandblanca Instagram photo inspired me. Wide leg and tapered leg version. I made a size 16 in wide leg version.

2. Directions are great. Everything came together. The pleat is a bit different and I’d love to see someone else’s version of it.

3. Discovered the bar tack feature on my sewing machine.

4. Omitted welt pockets and side tabs.

5. Fit worked very well. Lots of trouser features (fly shield!)-unfortunately most of them are invisible to the general public 🙂 A slower sew but worth it in the end.

November 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, December 8, 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, December 10, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

Wednesday, December 14, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, Mpls.

November Sewing

We’ll be at Ginny’s on Friday (11/11) at 1 pm, kind of a pop-up Garment Sewing Group :)) Ginny is also having a silk sale!

Then we’ll be a Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday at 10:30 am for our last November meeting. Hope you can make it!

And here’s some of what we saw on Wednesday-

Butterick 6633
Side Handle Gusset Tote from kzstevens
Simplicity 8830
Fitted Tee Shirt-Wardrobe by Me
Willow Shirt-Sewing Workshop
Simplicity 8844
Simplicity 8797
Picasso Top-Sewing Workshop
San Diego Jacket-Sewing Workshop
Swing Dress-Made It Patterns
Self drafted jacket

Last Month’s Garment Sewing Group

Looking a little bit like it was a slumber party, here are our October garments and notes.

We’ll be at the Sewing Lounge tomorrow (Wednesday), then First Sewing on Thursday and Treadle Yard Goods on Saturday. See you!?

Debbie’s Garments:

Jalie Dolman Tops #3352, Silk knit

1. A TNT pattern for me. This pattern can be made up in a variety of knits that can be casual or dressy and takes about a yard of 54-60 inch fabric. It’s a win-win.

2. The original pattern has a longer shirt tail hem on back . I made the front and back even in length with a shirt tail hem.

3. Instead of a neckband I did a serged “bias” edge finish to eliminate bulk and give it a more dressy look.

Butterick 5963, Cotton waffle knit

1. I was excited to try this pattern because it seemed relaxed but a step up from an everyday bathrobe. I still feel that way but constructing it is a different story – it is very “putsy” to make and put on! The waffle knit sews as smooth as butter.

2. I made the robe knee length.

3. The front band is connected to a faced neck band that hugs the back neck.

4. The pattern sets in sleeves but I put them in using the flat method.

5. I added the ties for closing the band after the robe was finished so I could get correct placement due to my height-I am short .

Love Notions Tranquil Nightwear, Art Gallery cotton knit
Bottoms: Jalie Jeanne #4016, Art Gallery cotton knit

1. This pattern runs large – next time I will take that in consideration when choosing a size.

2. Instead of neckband I serged a contrast knit strip to neck edge and then folded contrast to wrong side and stitched in the ditch to secure trim.

3. I put a straight hem on the sleeves rather than adding trim at an angle.

Coral Dot PJ Bottoms

1. My go to pattern for a quick and easy make.

2. I made it to pattern but I did change up the waist band by doing an “Eileen Fischer type” waistband. I determine the waist measurement and sew the elastic as a circle. Then the rs of the elastic is serged to rs of pj waist. The elastic is turned to ws and stitched in the ditch at center front and back and side seams.

Kristin’s Garments

New Look 6581 robe-cotton velvet, pantsrayon knit

1. Shortened the waist (tie point) by 1.5” and when I shortened the neck facing accordingly, it was easier to just fold the center front in (and lessen the overlap at CF). This also took out some bulk in the overlap.

2. Cut out a size 16 and graded larger at hips and took 1/4” seams at sides and sleeve seams. Sleeves are narrow and have a high cap but went in nicely. And to be fair, that pattern photo suggests this is to be worn without something underneath.

3. Fabric was wonderful to work with-used triple zigzag to understitch neck edge. Interfaced the back neck facing but just used 3/8” fusible stabilizer for larger part of neck edge.

4. Omitted the hole in side seam and attaching ties so I can try different solutions as I plan to wear tied most of time and the stickiness of fabric will keep flaps in place (I think).

5. Made size 20 which is largest that New Look usually goes. With this stretch rayon, it was a good size. Pant seems wider than pattern photo. Turned down an extra 2” at waist mostly due to stretchiness and weight of fabric.

Butterick 6491 Katherine Tilton, fabric content unknown

1. I couldn’t help myself-this was the pattern I had in my head for this fabric. I have a wedding in Phoenix and didn’t want to blend in-ha!!

2. Because of the lantern shape there was no need to increase at hips! Pretty much made to pattern-sleeves are on the slender side but it is a tunic and not a jacket so that’s OK.

3. Collar was applied with the hot dog technique from my “At Any Angle” shirts last month. The collar is very high but turns over nicely.

4. Interesting selvage edge was used at hems and facing.

5. I have a dress waiting in the wings in case I lose my nerve or the temperature remains high.

Love Notions La Bella Donna, jersey knit

1. Last month’s Willow Tank from Grainline Studio was great to wear under my At Every Angle shirt so I thought rayon would make a great knit option under a top but I wanted a short sleeve without the bulk of seams.

2. Pattern calls for 1.25” neckband optional but more as a wrap. I wanted a bit more strength to hold the stretchy rayon in place so I treated it as a tee shirt neckband. I like the narrowness of it.

3. Took in under arm-I think mostly because of the rayon knit.

November 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Wednesday, November 9, 10:30, Sewing Lounge

Thursday, November 10, 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington

Saturday, November 12, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul

More Photos from August

After going through these photos, I just can’t wait to see what everyone brings for September. Pat yourselves on the back-you rock the sewing world!!!

See you this Thursday (First Sewing), Saturday (Ginny’s) or next Wednesday (Sewing Lounge). Or maybe all three days!!

Simplicity wide leg pant with personal slopes
Bonn Shirt from Itch to Stitch
Frankie from Sewing Workshop
Silhouette Patterns 575 with some great modifications
OOP Vogue
By Popular Demand/Cutting Line Designs and Pietra Pant/Closet Core
Great print in Gallery Shirt/Liesl Patterns
KwikSew 3555 and Free Range Slacks/Sew House 7
Little girl’s Dolce Dress/Love Notions
Blouse from Tauko Magazine
Just too much fun!!

August Garment Sewing Photos

I know, it’s September already-trying to catch up…

September 2022 Garment Sewing Group

Thursday, September 8, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap

Saturday, September 10, 10:30 at Ginny’s in Rochester

Wednesday, September 14, 10:30, The Sewing Lounge, St. Paul

And here’s what we sewed in August—-

Debbie’s Garments: 

Cadence Dress-Love Notions-Japanese cotton
  1. Did not petite between shoulder and bust but did shorten length on front, back and sleeves by 2 inches.
  2. This was a fun, easy and quick make. I am fan of Love Notions patterns. I appreciate all the options for sleeves, necklines and lengths offered. The bust darts help in shaping and the dress can easily slip over your head but a zipper closure is optional.
Butterick 5616-Linen
  1. I did my standard petite adjustments between shoulder and bust.
  2. The under collar is the only pattern piece interfaced due to the fabric texture.
  3. I changed the order of construction and added petersham ribbon to inside collar for a clean finish instead of slip stitching.
  4. I did not enjoy working with this fabric  – too shifty.
  5. The jacket  end product isn’t what I had in my mind for a go to jean jacket. I think my choice of fabric had a lot to do with the end result.
KwikSew 3555-Italian cotton
  1. This is my favorite classic shirt pattern. If you can not find this particular pattern on line try a similar pattern from Cashmerette, Love Notions, Sewaholic, Grainline or the big four.
Jalie Dolman Top-French Terry and cotton interlock
  1. I raised the front neckline one inch and used a neckband to finish neck edge. 
  2. I left the hem length for front as is but shortened back length by 2 inches.
  3. This tee will be perfect for end of summer evenings and it decreased my fabric stash a bit – always a good thing.

Kristin’s Garments: 

Simplicity 9136-linen floral and rayon stripe
  1. Made a size 16 top and skirt. Size was perfect. 
  2. Cut 2” off of bottom edge of bodice to raise waist. Helped a lot! 
  3. Great fit through bust and shoulders.
New Look 6607-linen

1. Added 5” to skirt and raised waist on bodice 1.5”. Needed to piece the center fronts but like the result.

2. Pattern well written. Used rayon for muslin and skirt draped more than it did with the linen.

3. Made size 14.

Barry Woven Pant-Stylearc-linen
  1. Pattern instructions from Stylearc seem to be getting better! Pants easy to put together.
  2. Very much the “lantern pant” I’ve been looking for!
  3. Eliminated the “ruffle” at top of waist band.

More Inspiration from June

We’ll be at First Sewing all day, Thursday, June 30 (end of another month!) Serger in the am and Sew Social pm. Still room for YOU!

Elodie Dress/Closet Core-Men’s Jacket/Simplicity 8962
Kingston Jacket/Sew Beautiful-York Top/Seamwork
Self drafted top
Inspired by buttons!
Vogue 1868
Anthea/Anna Allen
Remy Top
OOP Simplicity Kimono Jacket
What to do with a border print!
Remy Top/Sew House Seven
Hey, hey it’s the monkeys!!

We’ll be at Lakes Makerie on July 13 for the start of July Garment Sewing Group! See you there——