A beautiful summer Saturday and great sewing inspiration!
We’ll be at Lakes Makerie, Minneapolis, on Wednesday, July 13 and First Sewing, Bloomington on Thursday, July 14 (and FABRIC SWAP). Both start at 10:30 am!
Happy Sewing!!
Saturday’s Meeting
More Inspiration from June
We’ll be at First Sewing all day, Thursday, June 30 (end of another month!) Serger in the am and Sew Social pm. Still room for YOU!
We’ll be at Lakes Makerie on July 13 for the start of July Garment Sewing Group! See you there——
Serger Class starts next week AND June GSG
Our next Basic & Beyond Sergery class starts next Thursday, June 30 at 10 am at First Sewing, 494 and Penn! The class continues July 7 and 21. Go to “Classes at First Sewing” in the menu bar to register.
June Garment Sewing Group:
Debbie’s Garments:
1. This is an unlined jacket so my first step was to draft lining pattern pieces. The sleeves are underlined. Also a dart in the sleeve creates a 2 piece look which I like. It eliminates a lot of bulk.
2. I did petite between shoulder and bust, did a narrow shoulder adjustment but did not shorten length because it is a cropped style.
3. Due to the texture of the main fabric I only interfaced the under collar.
4. Also due to the texture of the fabric I did not top stitch.
5. This pattern is from 2015. It was a fun make and I also decreased my pattern collection.
1. As always I did my petite adjustments but did not shorten the hem length – this is a crop length shirt.
2. The pattern envelope gives yardage for a skirt. There is no skirt in this pattern – maybe a typing error. That should have been my first clue that the pattern had some flaws.
3. The neckband is too short for neck and the directions for collar insertion are poor.
4. The only feature different from my TNT blouse pattern is the “cuff”.
Navy Gingham Pants, Burda 7062, Gingham with Bemberg lining, see photo above
1. This pattern is from 2013 and has been updated in the catalog.
2. I eliminated the side slits and added a lining.
3. This is a TNT for me and it will stay in pattern collection.
Coral “Scraps” Blouse
1. I did my standard petite adjustments and removed 2 inches from the length. I also softened the shirt tail hem and removed length from there as well. The designer is tall!
2. I raised the v-neck 1 inch.
3. I changed construction steps because I wanted to have the neck band on the rs of the blouse. I used the shorten/lengthen line to determine the the length of back top and bottom.
4. I chose this pattern because of the lantern sleeve. I am not fan of v-neck blouses but I thought I would give it a try anyway.
5. It was a fun make even though the construction techniques are kind of putsy and 1/2 seam allowances are used – WHY?!
Kristin’s Garments:
1. Pattern includes lining but didn’t want to lose the stretch of fabric so just used facings.
2. Very large pleat in back was topstitched through all layers-directions had it hanging loose-I wanted a bit more of a “yoke line” to copy garment.
3. Center front overlap was eliminated so no closure. Corners at collar were rounded.
4. This pattern was previously made in fleece. Fits surprisingly well (no forward shoulder needed, bust dart in proper place, sleeve is great.
Brick Summer Pants, Vanessa Fluid Pants/Jalie Patterns, Silk blend fabric? See photo below
1. Added 3” to length-omitted cuff.
2. Darts are extended 2” for a lower seat 🙂
3. Waist band is made into one continuous strip eliminating seams and tie.
4. Great pants pattern-TNT!
1. Made to pattern as the hip area is already wider.
2. Neck binding is supposed to be turned all the way under, I like wrapping the serged edge.
3. Center back seam has waist shaping but the opening isn’t necessary to get blouse on. I just sewed the button on permanently.
4. Several sleeve variations. Great summer woven tee with a dart.
5. Great fit for my body!
Take Me Back to Eddie Bauer, Classic Tee/Love Notions, Green cotton/lycra knit crew neck
1. Shortened length 2”.
2. Both necklines are great depthwise. Vee is quite pointed and the rayon fabric didn’t help. Pattern also includes a scoop neck and all sleeve length variations.
3. Definitely a TNT!
July 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Saturday, July 9, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Wednesday, July 13, 10:30 Lakes Makerie, Mpls
Thursday, July 14, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap 🙂
May Garments
Squeaking in on the last day of May…for June meeting dates and locations, please scroll to end of post-
Garment Sewing Group
Debbie’s Garments:
1. I did my standard petite adjustments and shortened the hem length by 2 inches – whoops – it feels a little too short.
2. I did a serged “bias” neck finish instead of turning under neck edge twice and topstitching as pattern directs. I also eliminated the side slit.
3. Fun, easy make that can be casual or dressy, depending on fabric choice.
1. Made my standard petite adjustments as well as shortening hem length.
2. I added a neckband rather than folding neck edge to ws and top stitching. Also added cuffs to again avoid turning hem to inside and topstitching.
3. This is a TNT pattern for me. I like how it fits, there are several looks and it is a great scrap buster.
1. I tried to copy a RTW garment and did fairly well except I wish I would have used very light batting instead of flannel. It is not as soft as RTW garment.
2. Besides my standard petite adjustments I straightened the CF so the fronts meet, not overlap.
3. For construction: stitch side fronts to fronts for main fabric, batting and lining. Follow same procedure for CB seam. Quilt front, back and sleeves using walking foot and 1/2 vertical rows at 3.0 stitch length. Jacket is then serged together.
4. I added a contrast band for CF and hemmed sleeves and bottom with bias strip bands.
5. The RTW version added buttons and buttonholes – I did not.
6. It was a good project to work on during our cold spring but I am done with quilting for a long time now!
1. To redesign the pattern I eliminated the side seam and made the back and wedge one piece allowing for sa and placket folds. Later I added a placket to button edge because my math was incorrect! A two inch length of fabric was pressed wst and serged to rst of shirt back side seam.
2. On the side fronts I added 1 inch plus sa for button hole placket. The placket edges were clean finished, pressed to ws and top stitched.
3. The back hem is longer by one inch.
4. I did make buttonholes but really not necessary.
5. This became more of a chore than I planned on and I realize now I should have just bought the Love Notions pattern!
Kristin’s Garments
1. Quick to sew with raglan sleeves. Bust dart is a plus.
2. As with most popular patterns of this type, the neck is on the larger end of spectrum.
3. I took it in 3/8” along shoulder dart and through sleeve as it seemed a bit low under arms also.
4. Neck band also seemed long but bias binding can stretch when pressed so follow pattern directions and adjust as needed.
1. Eliminated center back seam. Added back darts.
2. Eliminated skirt lining because scuba hung nicely without. Turned under underarms and stitched to make up for lack of lining.
3. Like the fit and the way it went together.
4. Omitted the trim down the side seams as wool knit was thick.
5. Disappointed with fusible interfacing results around decorative neck hole. Glued too well.
6. Hole in front yoke fussy but a fun detail.
1. Made the first version in a medium and that was too small so tried XL and that was much better except bust was big so took shaping out of front bust area.
2. Tried elastic trim for neckline (floral version) and band per pattern (solid version).
3. Lots of options-higher neckline and lower (solid knit was in between), pleated front and plain front, 3 sleeve lengths and a children’s version (separate purchase).
June 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, June 8, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Thursday, June 9, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Saturday, June 11, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Classes and Saturday’s Pics
We have two classes starting this week-
Serge (or Sew) This: Woven Tee: Wed., May 18, 25, June 2, 10:30-12:30, Treadle
Serge (or Sew) This: Core Pattern Tee: Thurs., May 19, 26, June 2, 10-12, First Sewing
Register online at Treadle for Treadle class and Material Girls for First Sewing class. Email materialgirlsewing@gmail.com for questions.
A Great Day at Ginny’s
We waited till May to avoid late snowstorms and instead we got heavy rain and road construction! But everyone got there safely and showed some great warmer weather garments. We are so grateful that you all love to meet together!!
Thursday will be Garment Sewing Group and Fabric Swap at 10:30 at First Sewing, Bloomington and then Saturday at Treadle Yard Goods-come and join the fun and creativity.
April Garments
Judging from the photos we have a pretty good time at our meetings! We had a large group at the Sewing Lounge and then a LARGE group of free fabric at First Sewing-and many people went home with a bagful 🙂
Thanks for being there!! Lots of new faces and a few we hadn’t seen for some time…
Debbie’s Garments:
Purple Print Empire Waist Dress
Itch to Stitch Recoleta Dress
Linen
1. Did not do any petite adjustments but shortened length 3 inches.
2. I felt the print needed to be broken up a bit so I added piping around neckband- not fun.
3. Adding a zipper is optional but I disagree with that. Even with zipper I find the dress difficult to put on and take off.
4. I have a difficult time choosing what size to make when using Itch to Stitch patterns. They seem to run large on bodice but smaller at hips. I am sure it is just me but I think I will stay away from this brand for awhile .
Soft Coral Print Cut On Sleeve Blouse
Melody Dolman by Love Notions
Rayon Lawn
1. I did my petite adjustments between shoulder and bust, bust and waist and shortened one inch at hem.
2. I used the one piece collar method from Louise Cutting for collar. It eliminates seams at collar edge. I also softened the shirt tail curve on hem.
3. The directions for inside collar are good, easy and quick and eliminates slipstitching.
4. I feel the blouse fits nice but next time, depending on fabric choice, I would XS shoulders to medium at hips.
5. There will be a next time. Love Notions patterns work well for me.
Oatmeal/Coral Print Sweatshirt
Simplicity 9229
95% Cotton 5% Spandex French Terry 4-way stretch
1. I made this tee last year and was pleased with it. The angled front design line is showing up everywhere so with a few changes I am already thinking of my next make using this pattern.
2. I did my standard petite adjustments.
3. I extended the short sleeve into long sleeve length .
4. I topstitched the angle seam for contrast.
Coral Joggers
Jalie Vanessa Joggers
Cotton
1. A TNT pattern that I make often.
2.The changes I make from the original pattern is a one piece waistband without the drawstring feature and no fly front detail.
Kristin’s Garments
Golf Dress
Simplicity 9328
Poly/lycra knit
1. Looking for sun protection and comfort. Quarter zip was pretty straightforward-reinforce the area with interfacing, stitch over stitching line, clip to inside corners, sew each side of zipper and tuck in the triangle at bottom.
2. Pattern called for sewing ribbon to the inside of zipper but used bias strip instead-easier to stitch to raw edge and pressed easily for less bulk.
3. Pattern called for stitching one band on then turning under edges of other and topstitching but with chosen fabric I serged the whole band on and topstitched seam allowance down.
Cold Sewing Day Sweater
Jalie Romy Pattern
Wool knit remnants
1. Very quick sew with only two pattern pieces (sleeve and front/back) and because of that the fit at the neck could use a good forward shoulder adjustment.
2. Instead of adding band, I cut pattern longer to equal band and made a deep hem.
3. Underarm curve and sleeve is to pattern.
4. Funnel neck is nice and their technique of sewing the seam allowances together to keep neck in place is a technique I will use again.
Faux Wrap Skirt (pictured above and below)
New Look 6646
Stretch woven
1. Not enough fabric to make the wrap to pattern and didn’t really want the free swinging wrap anyway.
2. Cut the front 2.5” wider and stitched a 1.25” pleat in the position of the wrap hem.
3. Basic straight skirt with back darts. Omitted the waistband and stitched on elastic.
Peplum Sweater Jacket
Burda 6293
Ponte
1. Loved the photo so had to give it a try. Instead of facings and linings I added a band at the neck and a band at center fronts so I had overlap for closure.
2. Lots of seams for knit but a fun adventure in fitting.
3. Lighter weight ponte was perfect fabric choice.
May 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Wednesday, May 11, 10:30, Ginny’s in Rochester
Thursday, May 12, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington
Saturday, May 14, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
One More April Meeting
It’s tomorrow (Thursday, April 14) at First Sewing, Bloomington and there’s going to be ALOT of fabric to swap!!!! Please come and take some. Somebody was moving… There will be some diamonds and some duds but it’s all free and going to Goodwill by 4 pm.
There will also be great sewing inspiration! Here’s what we saw at the Sewing Lounge Wednesday. There were 27 people and we stood on a chair so all could see-but we had a great time 🙂 Thanks for keeping on keeping on.
April Garment Sewing Group Meetings Begin Saturday
Please join us!
Saturday, April 9, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Wednesday, April 13, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, April 14, First Sewing, Bloomington AND FABRIC SWAP!
And keeping up with last month’s meeting-
Debbie’s Garments:
1. Made petite adjustment between shoulder and bust and shortened length by one inch.
2. I reversed construction technique for button placket to add contrast interest.
3. Also did burrito roll for yoke rather than slipstitch method.
4. Since my first make from this pattern was the gathered view I wanted to try the other view and I am very glad I did and will probably make it again.
1. Made my standard petite adjustments but did not shorten length.
2. Due to lack of fabric and one way design I cut apart the back to create a lined yoke and used contrast fabric for facing.
3. I like how this pattern is relaxed and yet isn’t too oversized. A fun make that I will do agin.
1. Using my remnants and copying RTW, I was able to make my favorite tunic pattern.
2. I cut apart front, back and sleeves, added seam allowance and carefully constructed the boatneck. The most difficult part was adapting the white upper sleeve because it couldn’t be cut straight across at the hem. Once I figured out that I added a coral rectangle to the upper sleeve and placed the the sleeve pattern onto of fabric to get the shape of the sleeve correct. Then I was able to determine the length of the coral section and added the bottom lavender potion. All this was done while the body of the tee was on my mannequin. Whew – not as easy as I thought.
3. The construction of the boatneck and side slits are very good and not at all difficult.
4. This is a TNT pattern with so many options – I will be making more.
1. Still making use of remnants I was able to gain more storage space for new fabric and have fun tee to wear. Its a win win!
2. The cotton jersey is easy to work with, the viscose not so much.
3. Another TNT pattern that I will using again with or without remnants.
Kristin’s Garments
1. Made to pattern to get an idea of fit. It is unisex so quite oversized but all the pics I saw were drop shoulder at least.
2. Glad that I chose a stripe for the neck to see how it worked. All pieces went together perfectly. Turning corners as in Tabor Vee and worked like a charm.
3. Whacked off lots of fabric but pleased with the results. Not quite what I was hoping for in the end but I have a great pattern piece to hack on to a better fitting tunic.
1. Moved bust dart and widened at hip but otherwise great shoulders and all.
2. Wish I would have matched vertical stripes!
3. Sleeves were supposed to be cinched with a band-more trench coat-like. Tapered instead.
Helmi Trench Blouse and Dress by Named
1. Same fit adjustments. Very happy with results. I have added 2” to skirt length.
1. The Nicole pattern has a bodice piece and skirt piece that is to be joined when you cut it out but I had these two fabrics as remnants and have always wanted them together. Perfect opportunity!
2. Neckband has been shortened by 1/4” (1/2” total).
3. Faux pockets added to accommodate a flaw in the fabric discovered only after unfolding the already cut out skirt piece.
April 2022 Garment Sewing Group
Saturday, April 9, 10:30, Treadle Yard Goods, St. Paul
Wednesday, April 13, 10:30, Sewing Lounge, St. Paul
Thursday, April 14, 10:30, First Sewing, Bloomington and Fabric Swap
Garment Sewing Group on Wednesday and Class Pics
Here are the meeting times and spaces for this week:
Wednesday, March 9, 10:30 at Lakes Makerie, 5255 Chicago Av., Mpls.
Thursday, March 10, 10:30 at First Sewing, 7985 Southtown Center, Blmgtn. (Bring fabric to swap!)
Saturday, March 12, 10:30 at Treadle Yard Goods, 1338 Grand Av., St. Paul
Our Quilted Jacket class just finished up. Here are a few photos-
Great vest from New Look 6713 (don’t ask how long it took to get the pics on top of each other-or try to get one of them deleted!!)
Material Girl Sewing 